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If anyone is curious, the 3D printed wheels on eBay from Tom do work on the Mark 2 but you do need to get a bunch of washers to lengthen the axle. The train wheels are made for the Mark 1 with a much different axle system. Also painted the rails as well and probably add some weather to it...

This is very useful! I had to guess by trial and error and a bit of brute force, lol. Thank you for this!

I’m guessing since this version has “adjustable” wheel positions would mean it can be adjusted to be higher and lower and thus loosing the flip-down mechanism. Hot Toys really could have done some sort of $200 accessory kit for the Mark 2 and it would’ve been an epic hit. Shipping is easy too!

I like how I started working on the train wheel part of the diorama and then the day after, Hot Toys announces it. I can’t wait though!

Small update. Figured out the issue wasn’t in the rear as the actual wire got severed from the poorly designed circuit board.

@hotdogs4humanity once again, thanks for the details and pics. I’ve been trying to figure out how to remove the back to troubleshoot an issue with the overhead lights not coming on. I’ve deduced that the circuit for that has to be in the rear. I didn’t want to force the vent cover off but...

Unfortunately you may need to get a color as close as you can and paint it entirely. I’d suggest leaving it as is since it’s not too bad. Maybe try a thin silver sharpie on it just to cover the black plastic.

I’m also loving those light up flames. Makes the display so alive!

Make sure to get the right type of connector. In my case, I soldered two “female” cables together to extend and bypass the digital switch. According to the picture from the cables I bought from Amazon, it says it’s “female”. Regardless, get the one that has a hole to stick a metal pin in 😅.

Thanks for the great response! Yep, if you follow where the wires go from the switch, it becomes pretty obvious.

Hello I took a look at my 2nd batch one and this is simply just the plastic molding where the injection was and they simply either ripped or sanded off. It’s not glue but just how plastic is made. Hope this helps.

Glad we are all working together to make this piece even better! 😄

This is excellent! Thank you for the photos and details. I’ve been trying to figure out a safe way i remove the rear as well.

You’re absolutely right. Hot toys seems to have kind of tried by giving us a slit for a cable but it was pretty half-assed. The mirror for my purpose of seeing the under lights works pretty well. Only a few dollars from IKEA.

White seems to work fine. If clear isn’t possible, maybe even silver is better to blend a bit more?

To clarify the mods, there are two I had. 1. Switch the flight/land mode wires underneath. It’ll require pulling the glue off holding the wires down. Then hot glue or tape down the button in the frunk. 2. advanced method of rewiring and creating new wires to power everything all on and...

Loving all the additional stuff you did to it. Great idea with the relay. I never really thought of it since I only wanted it in flight mode but I love the write up! It is up to use to make this thing even better.

And down the rabbit hole you go! 😁

I kind of like how this person did it. Nice and cheap/free way.

On the side I’ve been working on something for the Delorean to “sit” on.