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Sorry. It wasn't the lower arm wrist piece, but instead the lower leg ankle piece I scanned. I will pull the ankle pieces up to the shin piece eventually... I'm just a little too tired to do it tonight. Anyway, here's the progress. A few of the scanned pieces are hidden behind other pieces...

Did 5 more scans today. Will post pictures later. x2 means they work for both left and right. Arm - Lower - Right Arm - Lower Wrist - x2 Shoulder - Right (T1) - Left (T2) - This is only one model, but they are on different sides the T1 and T2. Shoulder Piece - L Shoulder Piece - R

Just for fun. Here's a picture showing feet models modeled after the style of the castings that came with my kit and the ones on the right are those models reworked from reference of the screen used endoskeletons and props.

Why is the gun so big? Looks oversized. It's supposed to be a pretty standard Beretta with extensions and new grips. And that price for a 1:10 scale piece is ridiculous.

Have been working on this for a while. This will be scanned from a full scale endoskeleton kit and scaled down and 3D printed. Current progress compared with an endoskeleton model from the game: Terminator Resistance - which actually isn't too far off with most of the parts (lower arms and...

Please delete

Thanks. I may have to experiment a little with the orientation of the belt box, as it seems the bottom got a little messed up - maybe some supports failed and it was pulled off, resulting in a curved bottom. Maybe I can fix that by angling it towards one of the bottom corners?

Looks cool. But that head shell on the queen is not ALIENS style.

At least these test prints came out okay. The orientation on these work without issues, though, the grills are prone to capturing and keeping water and excess resin in the spaces, so I need to invest in a better connector between my compressor and airbrush, as for some reason, just screwing the...

Failure. I guess the angle was too steep, as there are displacement lines horizontally across the front of the armor in several places. Will try to angle it down more, so it isn't so vertical. Will try another print another day, as I'm test printing something else tonight and may print some...

Thanks. It's not too bad, for now, just a bit demoralizing. We'll see how it develops, if it does at all or whether it just goes back to dormant state. Crossing fingers. Am currently printing the main chest armor to see if the supports I added and orientation is good enough. I'll let you...

Well, we may now know what has caused the health issues. Not the best news, though... but at least now I know what the cause may be. Will see if I can get things up and running again sometime next week. No promises though

Sadly, I had just gotten started, but it was halted by health issues. Not related to 3D printing, so I'll get back to that as soon as I'm over this current issue. Though... with what the doctor said... I'd need to undergo a lot more tests... so things may take a while. Sorry guys. But at...

Got it done. It is about on par with the version without anti-aliasing. There are some smoother areas, but it has some issues with edges, so the benefit is lost. I'll stick with normal without anti-aliasing. At least when using Lychee slicer.

Doing some more tests with the 0.05mm setting. Dennys Wang on Youtube suggests anti-aliasing to get rid of voxel lines, so I'm testing 2 types of that - one sharp and one blurred, as Dennys Wang suggests the latter with anti-aliasing 2, blur 2, but he's using another slicer than me, as Lychee...

The 0.05mm layer height less than 2 hour print vs the 0.02mm layer height 5 and a half hour print. I'll let you be the judge. Do you feel the extra time and slightly sharper detail is worth it? I know how I feel after seeing the comparison.

Thanks. And yes, screen accurate would be a decal. I do not have the capability of doing that. However, I can easily create a blank version where the text isn't part of the print for people who want that. Currently printing the 0.02mm layer height RotJ box to check the difference in quality...

Tried the same settings with a RotJ box. The wonkiness at the top is due to me hollowing out the back and didn't account for potential warpage. However, the print is great and heating it with an air dryer softens it and I can push it back into position. I'll try a 0.02mm layer height...

Was shown some better reference for the RotJ box and did a whole lot of reworking. Old one on the left and new one on the right.

Well, found some things that weren't accurate to the reference, so started fixing it on the RotJ Box. There is apparently a small sphere detail I had missed on the top silver greeblie between the two colored lenses, + the red lenses at the coin slots appeared a lot more tapered, yet with...