Sculpting Material Recommendation?

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MaulFan

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Hey guys,
I bought a spare Two-Face head because I wanted to take a stab and taking the film accurracy of it a bit further than Hot Toys got.

I don't want to make a cast of the head after adding to the sculpt, I just want to fill out some spots like the eye socket.

Is there a material that you can add to sculpts with that you just like let it dry or something for a bit and then add your paint and it stays?

Appreciate any help.
 
Magic Sculpt... its a 2 part compound that dries hard as a rock in a few hours.

Also, I think some people use different apoxies, there was a thread discussing it yesterday I think.
 
Alright, I'll keep magic sculpt at the top of the list for now. Hopefully I can find something in a small container, the ammount I'll use is so minimal it's almost pointless doing it, but I want to see what he'd look like tweaked more.
 
That's the downside of Magic Sculpt... you have to buy a larger amount. I think I paid around $25.

But if you want... PM me your address. If you'll cover shipping I can try and mail you a small package with enough to do the job.
 
I think its a good idea to experiment with a few things to figure out what you like best. I tried Firm Super Sculpey (the grey stuff) but just couldn't work with it. Went back to the regular and am happier for it.
 
I agree with Joseph... Magic Sculpt all the way! That stuff rocks. :duff

As for Sculpey Firm, I was wanting to try that too... Was it just too stiff for you to work with or what?
 
Sculpey firm id super hard and like to crack when you try and sread it out. It is awesome for really small things with fine details though. For adding to a sculpt , Super Sculpey is very eary to use and you can "cure" it with ahair dryer for thin parts. Just be careful not to let it crack on you while "curing"
 
Like Blindvoyeur said it had a tendency to get brittle, or kind of flaky when working with it. I found the Super Sculpey to stay more uniform when I worked with it.

Never tried drying thin parts with a hair dryer, but that's good to know it would work.
 
If you want to spot-cure Super Sculpey, you can put a flame on it with one of those BBQ fire starters. Just make sure you don't burn it. This is with the premise of curing your sculpt enough to make a mold and cast it.
 
Thanks for all the tips.

There should probably be a sticky thread in here where customizers can list brands of paints, paint brush types, sculpting materials, all the crafts of the trade so people can quickly access information on what people are using.

As for my own situation, galacticboy's taking care, much appreciated.
 
Yes I like Super sculpy, I started sculpting with Fimo but SS holds shape better, not as tacky to the tools and holds better detail.
 
To expand a little on my statement, you have better control over your work with the white and in my opinion is far easier to work with and leaves a fantastic finish when sanded or carved.
 
I would use Super Sculpey for a project like that. As noted, the options are expensive. You can buy a credit card-sized slab of SS for about 3 bucks, in any color. And it won't harden until you want it to. Most people bake SS, but you can also boil it. Boiling the head won't hurt it, as you'd only need to boil for about 2-3 minutes with such small amounts of clay being used. The only downside, you clay pieces may pop off whenthe head softens. No big deal, just glue them back in.
 
I would use Super Sculpey for a project like that. As noted, the options are expensive. You can buy a credit card-sized slab of SS for about 3 bucks, in any color. And it won't harden until you want it to. Most people bake SS, but you can also boil it. Boiling the head won't hurt it, as you'd only need to boil for about 2-3 minutes with such small amounts of clay being used. The only downside, you clay pieces may pop off whenthe head softens. No big deal, just glue them back in.

Hi can you go into any more detail with the boiling process as I have a few figures I'm thinking of doing this to, but don't want to stuff up.
 
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