1/6 DARK TOYS DTM005 Collectible Figure MAX DX

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Love it! I remember you asked me a question about mine a few weeks ago too, but I had no idea this is what you had in the works 😂 Just awesome work my friend….be proud cause you have one of the best I have seen :clap
That's right, I was the one who asked you how you repainted your Max. Thanks for answering me back then. You did a great job, by the way.
 
Great, because I have a set of those myself. Good to know they look so good once on.

I can only hope I can get my Max to look a bit like yours.

One more question if you don't mind: what body did you use? It looks like an HT body by the neck.
Of course, it's nothing secret. I used the body from Soldiers Of fortune 4. Antonio Banderas. Some places had to be sanded down a bit with sandpaper.
 

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Hi everyone, I want to share the redesign of my Mad Max from Dark Toys . I completely repainted one of the head sculpt, replaced the body, boots and added some weathering on the clothes. This is not the final version yet. I'm still in the process. Interested to hear what you guys think. I'm just learning how to paint so don't be hard on me.
Best regards,
Denys
Beautiful.. Your paint work really shows how good the sculpt is.
 
Is this considered the best Mad Max figure out there at the moment, at least in terms of the outfit and accessories? I've lost track but just bought a painted sculpt and now need something to put it on.
 
I read the whole thread and missed the fact that head, body and hands are all different colors.

This figure is like a kit that you need to finish. Painstakingly changing every part of it.
 

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Hi all,

Does anyone know what torso this is, please? Note, I think the arms are from the same body. The legs are not from the same body as the torso. Someone has told me it looks like a JXS01, or knock-off one. Compared to a genuine S01, the waist/ abdominal muscles look a bit different and this has some black smudged below the neck. But perhaps the seller added that as chest hair.

I've damaged the neck on this chest piece trying out modifications to widen it and I can't really change the body for my Mad Max figure as the leg brace is hot glued to his boot and I don't want to risk removing it, that would be a last resort.

I had the neck almost perfect, though and now I know how to mod it safely and to achieve what I want. So, I'm trying to find the same chest.

Kind thanks and Merry Christmas

UPDATE: I saw a photo on the sister forum someone shared and it looks the same as a genuine S01 there, so hopefully it is an S01. Any thoughts still welcome, though, please, many thanks

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I had to get a new S01 chest after damaging my last one. Unfortunately, the new ones don't have the same lovely tan and shine that I loved of the old one which I felt worked great for Max in the Australian outback. But as per some scenes in the 4K UHD of Road Warrior, the paler and pinker tones of then new chest does looks closer to his flesh tone in those scenes. I might try spraying it/ painting it one sometime, or having it done and something suitable for some sweat.

I thought I'd share my progress and new neck mod. After a few weeks of different mods and attempts, I think I'm happy with this one for now. It was tricky getting the straight vertical edges/ lines of Gibson's neck and the correct shape and size. I opted for a neck piece cut to size, neck ball peg and barrel shaped neck adapter for this mod. Previously was using a different neck adapter piece. This time I have full articulation, so can do his iconic walking pose very well, which is great! For the DTs outfit, because the jacket collar sits too high on his shoulders (and also on 2 or so other chests I tried it on), I found that having the neck a bit taller than it should be was a good workaround to keep some distance between his neck and jacket collar, making it a bit closer to the film. A close second was a wine bottle cork cut to size. I tried various sizes and ways. One caveat with it all is that his neck might be a tad too chunky/ wide form the side profile, but that is needed if you want to fill Beast's head and have zero to very little gap beneath his chin.

I'm loving his iconic walking pose the most at the moment, so I am going to stick with that for now.


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Figure history and break-down:

I am the second owner of the base body. The amazing weathering and kitbashing was done by the previous owner. I have now added a new S01 chest and arms (as I damaged the S01 neck it came with when trying mods for it), trimmed the vest neck line to be a bit more screen-accurate and made a new neck mode and neck adapter.

Body: The torso and legs of the body are from two separate figures for the right proportions and to fill out the Dark Toys outfit. He did a great job there, it's a solid body and very similar to Gibson's, with a very similar chest as you can see, for example. The chest is shaped like a Maha or DID Advanced 2.0. The arms are more muscular than Gibson's were but I think the trade-off is needed to fill out this outfit, even then the outfit still hangs too loose on his arms, but it certainly looks decent/ passable, I think and is good improvement over stock.

Clothing: The clothes are from three different 1/6 Max figures, as well as a couple of areas the previous owner did himself with leather. Most of the outfit is Dark Toys, apart from the rear hand axe pouch, axe and the tire wrench and pouch, which are from the Premier Toys Max, which was switched out to have real material and accessories.

I will see about cutting his right sleeve the correct way, but it might take off too much material and then look worse, so will have to review this carefully first.

Weathering and other modifications/ enhancements:

Pleather outfit:
the outfit was heavily weathered with various rust, dust and dirt paint details added, with a 'dust' acrylic colour mixture of the customiser's own.

T-Shirt: Max's T-shirt was cut and ripped to screen-accuracy at the neck line and the left breast area, which is torn in the film. I improved the neck line by fine trimming loose hairs and getting the shape closer to the film.

Shotgun: Max's sawed-off shotgun was weathered including with metallic scrapes, as well as grip wrapping added.

Leg brace: The stabiliser portion of the leg brace below the knee was reinforced and enhanced, as that aspect had been missing on the brace. Testers paint in a chrome was used to paint the brace to make it appear more metallic. An acrylic silver metallic top coat of paint went over that, since the Testers can be a little grimy. However, it is rubbing off easily, so I will need to seal it with a sealant.

Arm rag: The red arm rag, which was a cheap ribbon on the Dark Toys figure was also been replaced with an actual rag piece

Other accessories: Max's boot knife and all accessories, etc., have been weathered and in some areas, given stronger connections, such as the binoculars.

Max's Dog: The dog was re-painted to be closer to the actual colouring in the film.

There might be some other things that were done but I am not sure. If I think it safe to, I will treat all of the pleather with Aerospace 303, which I use for any pleather, it should be fine.
 
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I had to get a new S01 chest after damaging my last one. Unfortunately, the new ones don't have the same lovely tan and shine that I loved of the old one which I felt worked great for Max in the Australian outback. But as per some scenes in the 4K UHD of Road Warrior, the paler and pinker tones of then new chest does looks closer to his flesh tone in those scenes. I might try spraying it/ painting it one sometime, or having it done and something suitable for some sweat.

I thought I'd share my progress and new neck mod. After a few weeks of different mods and attempts, I think I'm happy with this one for now. It was tricky getting the straight vertical edges/ lines of Gibson's neck and the correct shape and size. I opted for a neck piece cut to size, neck ball peg and barrel shaped neck adapter for this mod. Previously was using a different neck adapter piece. This time I have full articulation, so can do his iconic walking pose very well, which is great! For the DTs outfit, because the jacket collar sits too high on his shoulders (and also on 2 or so other chests I tried it on), I found that having the neck a bit taller than it should be was a good workaround to keep some distance between his neck and jacket collar, making it a bit closer to the film. A close second was a wine bottle cork cut to size. I tried various sizes and ways. One caveat with it all is that his neck might be a tad too chunky/ wide form the side profile, but that is needed if you want to fill Beast's head and have zero to very little gap beneath his chin.

I'm loving his iconic walking pose the most at the moment, so I am going to stick with that for now.


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Figure history and break-down:

I am the second owner of the base body. The amazing weathering and kitbashing was done by the previous owner. I have now added a new S01 chest and arms (as I damaged the S01 neck it came with when trying mods for it), trimmed the vest neck line to be a bit more screen-accurate and made a new neck mode and neck adapter.

Body: The torso and legs of the body are from two separate figures for the right proportions and to fill out the Dark Toys outfit. He did a great job there, it's a solid body and very similar to Gibson's, with a very similar chest as you can see, for example. The chest is shaped like a Maha or DID Advanced 2.0. The arms are more muscular than Gibson's were but I think the trade-off is needed to fill out this outfit, even then the outfit still hangs too loose on his arms, but it certainly looks decent/ passable, I think and is good improvement over stock.

Clothing: The clothes are from three different 1/6 Max figures, as well as a couple of areas the previous owner did himself with leather. Most of the outfit is Dark Toys, apart from the rear hand axe pouch, axe and the tire wrench and pouch, which are from the Premier Toys Max, which was switched out to have real material and accessories.

I will see about cutting his right sleeve the correct way, but it might take off too much material and then look worse, so will have to review this carefully first.

Weathering and other modifications/ enhancements:

Pleather outfit:
the outfit was heavily weathered with various rust, dust and dirt paint details added, with a 'dust' acrylic colour mixture of the customiser's own.

T-Shirt: Max's T-shirt was cut and ripped to screen-accuracy at the neck line and the left breast area, which is torn in the film. I improved the neck line by fine trimming loose hairs and getting the shape closer to the film.

Shotgun: Max's sawed-off shotgun was weathered including with metallic scrapes, as well as grip wrapping added.

Leg brace: The stabiliser portion of the leg brace below the knee was reinforced and enhanced, as that aspect had been missing on the brace. Testers paint in a chrome was used to paint the brace to make it appear more metallic. An acrylic silver metallic top coat of paint went over that, since the Testers can be a little grimy. However, it is rubbing off easily, so I will need to seal it with a sealant.

Arm rag: The red arm rag, which was a cheap ribbon on the Dark Toys figure was also been replaced with an actual rag piece

Other accessories: Max's boot knife and all accessories, etc., have been weathered and in some areas, given stronger connections, such as the binoculars.

Max's Dog: The dog was re-painted to be closer to the actual colouring in the film.

There might be some other things that were done but I am not sure. If I think it safe to, I will treat all of the pleather with Aerospace 303, which I use for any pleather, it should be fine.
i think angelus flat clear would seal the leather better followed by aerospace 303. but i though dark toys uses real leather?
 
i think angelus flat clear would seal the leather better followed by aerospace 303. but i though dark toys uses real leather?

Kind thanks, @potato. I don't want anything that leaves a coating, I think the Angelus would, right? I use Aerospace 303 on my Medicom Kaneda just fine. If Angelus doesn't leave any residue or coating then I could try it.

I read on this thread and or others that the Dark Toys outfit uses pleather and that the only one of the three that does, is Present Toy's. Even then, that won't be 100% leather, I don't think. That said, the DTs outfit feels very durable. I'll have to have a close look in person, but the DTs does have a grain, but real/ 100% leather has inconsistent grain.
 
Kind thanks, @potato. I don't want anything that leaves a coating, I think the Angelus would, right? I use Aerospace 303 on my Medicom Kaneda just fine. If Angelus doesn't leave any residue or coating then I could try it.

I read on this thread and or others that the Dark Toys outfit uses pleather and that the only one of the three that does, is Present Toy's. Even then, that won't be 100% leather, I don't think. That said, the DTs outfit feels very durable. I'll have to have a close look in person, but the DTs does have a grain, but real/ 100% leather has inconsistent grain.
whole point about angelus is to form a clear coat to seal the pleather together. i have been doing this for pleather parts like belts and holster.
 
whole point about angelus is to form a clear coat to seal the pleather together. i have been doing this for pleather parts like belts and holster.

I see, thanks. And does it leave any visible coating? Why did you say that you think Angelus would be better than 303? Kind thanks
 
I see, thanks. And does it leave any visible coating? Why did you say that you think Angelus would be better than 303? Kind thanks
it changes the finish a little depending the type of gloss and how much duller is used. the matter you want the milkier it looks because that is how matte powder works. however with matte or flat the finish is still semi-gloss, like you applied some leather product so theres no milky look.

i used angelus because all previous products failed. i did not use 303 but meguair hyper dressing which is an alternative to 303.

the thing is the degradation also happens from the underside where the adhesive loses its properties and the pleather comes off from the fabric backing. the adhesive among the pleather layer itself too.

having a coat ontop holds the pleather together. for belts i also coat the underside. the coat is actually rubbery so it is flexible and less likely to crack. it can still crack if you apply too much stress as i said the adhesive between the fabric and pleather gets weak.
 
it changes the finish a little depending the type of gloss and how much duller is used. the matter you want the milkier it looks because that is how matte powder works. however with matte or flat the finish is still semi-gloss, like you applied some leather product so theres no milky look.

i used angelus because all previous products failed. i did not use 303 but meguair hyper dressing which is an alternative to 303.

the thing is the degradation also happens from the underside where the adhesive loses its properties and the pleather comes off from the fabric backing. the adhesive among the pleather layer itself too.

having a coat ontop holds the pleather together. for belts i also coat the underside. the coat is actually rubbery so it is flexible and less likely to crack. it can still crack if you apply too much stress as i said the adhesive between the fabric and pleather gets weak.

Most helpful information and tips, @potato, I am grateful. I will stick with 303 for now, as it doesn't leave a trace of anything and is very easy to use. But I understand why now the Angelus might be better for protection, since it seems like there has to be a trace of something, the more there is, the more it has that protective layer! I might just leave it, though. (y) :)

Also, did you read somewhere that Dark Toys used real leather? It might be a mix and mixed with synthetics, as it does feel and look a bit more like real leather to me, moreso than say, my old MMS238 T-800 jacket, which flaked up just after taking it out of the box. That was horrible! I had purchased it second hand and it only had a few places of flaking when it was still inside the box. I took as much as the pleather off and have the base fabric, in case I was to send it to Geewhiz to convert to genuine leather. But I just plan to get a real leather jacket instead now.
 
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