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I'd been thinking the past few years about restoring my original G1 Optimus Prime that I got in Christmas of '85. I didn't take any "before" pictures, but he was pretty worn out since he was one of my favorite toys growing up. Hip ratchets were so worn that his legs would not stay extended, and pretty much the only parts I had were the cab, rifle, and most of the trailer base (missing the repair drone). I'd spent a couple of weeks tracking down loose original parts on eBay and now have everything with the exception of the fuel hose.

Last weekend, I started disassembly and cleaning. Maybe 70% or or so of the original cab can be saved and probably 50% of the trailer. Just got the paint stripped over the past couple of days and the first coat of primer put on today:

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Side by side comparison between MP-10 and MP-44 Optimus. The level of improvement of MP-44 over MP-10 is almost scary. I loved MP-10 as much as anybody, but MP-44 simply leaves it in the dust!

The overall body proportions, paint application, head sculpt, and pure G1 cartoon aesthetics takes the new MP-44 to a completely higher level. In every conceivable way, it is absolutely worth the money to upgrade!

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Oh wow that is glorious, seeing it next to MP10 just shows how much effort they went to
I would love to have MP44 but I just can't, I don't have anywhere near the disposable income these days so it will have to be a "what if" figure to me.
I have MP10 so he will do

Thanks for the amazing shots (everyone) & I shall live vicariously through you all ;) lol

Neil
 
I just found out something disturbing - there are ZERO pictures of the Hot Toys Optimus being pictured next to a regular HT figure. Was he really that bad that most people didn't bought him? Does anyone have pics of him next to a regular HT for size comparison?
 
I just found out something disturbing - there are ZERO pictures of the Hot Toys Optimus being pictured next to a regular HT figure. Was he really that bad that most people didn't bought him? Does anyone have pics of him next to a regular HT for size comparison?


This is the only image I found, next the HT Avengers Banner figure (courtesy of an action figure reviewer on YT)

LTtW1YW.png
 
It's a pretty terrible representation of Optimus though. There are lots of things that count against it in many TF collectors' eyes:

1) It doesnt transform, but if it was great in other regards (like the 3A DLX series) that could be overlooked.

2) It doesnt have the build quality, like proper use of diecast, awesome paint application etc.

3) It doesnt seem to have fantastic articulation to get it into awesome action poses.

For a TF figure like this, it had to knock points 2) and 3) out the park, but it doesnt.
 
Hot toys couldn’t make there Optimus prime Transform this is because of copyright reasons
to with hasbro and Takara
 
I'd been thinking the past few years about restoring my original G1 Optimus Prime that I got in Christmas of '85. I didn't take any "before" pictures, but he was pretty worn out since he was one of my favorite toys growing up. Hip ratchets were so worn that his legs would not stay extended, and pretty much the only parts I had were the cab, rifle, and most of the trailer base (missing the repair drone). I'd spent a couple of weeks tracking down loose original parts on eBay and now have everything with the exception of the fuel hose.

Last weekend, I started disassembly and cleaning. Maybe 70% or or so of the original cab can be saved and probably 50% of the trailer. Just got the paint stripped over the past couple of days and the first coat of primer put on today:

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Did you ever finished the project? Curious to see the end result, does anyone here know to chrome plastic? Like the chrome stacks for example?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I am actually still working on mine, taking a casual pace towards completing it. I've finished repainting and clear-coating the feet, and am in the process of painting the chest now. I also added a little nail polish to some of the original joints to give them a little more tension. Repro stickers are on the way from Toyhax.

As for chrome, I'll be doing that soon. There are always options like having them re-electroplated, but I'm actually going to try a Molotow Liquid Chrome pen for this and some of my original GoBots that need it. I tested it earlier today on an old MASK Hurricane vehicle and it turned out pretty good...but I want to give it a week and see if it's tacky.

The passenger headlight got some of the liquid chrome...driver's side headlight is the original worn finish.

IMG_4883.jpg
 
I am actually still working on mine, taking a casual pace towards completing it. I've finished repainting and clear-coating the feet, and am in the process of painting the chest now. I also added a little nail polish to some of the original joints to give them a little more tension. Repro stickers are on the way from Toyhax.

As for chrome, I'll be doing that soon. There are always options like having them re-electroplated, but I'm actually going to try a Molotow Liquid Chrome pen for this and some of my original GoBots that need it. I tested it earlier today on an old MASK Hurricane vehicle and it turned out pretty good...but I want to give it a week and see if it's tacky.

The passenger headlight got some of the liquid chrome...driver's side headlight is the original worn finish.

View attachment 466313

everytime i use molotow, i will brush future floor on it when it's dried. it will dull the shine by 15-20% but still beats the chrome rubbing off or dulling without a coat. with a coat, you can also apply semi clear paint on them if you need to paint the lights.

the key in getting good shine is choose the right tip to minimize strokes and try to do it in 1 or 2 pass as the paint can end up being thick & uneven. overflow can be easily removed with a knife.
 
everytime i use molotow, i will brush future floor on it when it's dried. it will dull the shine by 15-20% but still beats the chrome rubbing off or dulling without a coat. with a coat, you can also apply semi clear paint on them if you need to paint the lights.

the key in getting good shine is choose the right tip to minimize strokes and try to do it in 1 or 2 pass as the paint can end up being thick & uneven. overflow can be easily removed with a knife.

Thanks for the tips!

Have you tried any particular brand clear coats for reactions? I often use Testors, Duplicolor, or Automotive Touchup's clear coat but yesterday was my first experience with Molotow.
 
Thanks for the tips!

Have you tried any particular brand clear coats for reactions? I often use Testors, Duplicolor, or Automotive Touchup's clear coat but yesterday was my first experience with Molotow.

i only used Molotow for chrome, future floor dulls it less due to it being water based. however i've heard alclad II water based clear dulls less but i can't be sure if they were talking about using it on Molotow or alclad Chrome.

so far alclad II chrome is claimed to have the best balance between shine & durability but you need to airbrush it.
 
It's great actually that he's readily available. It means Walmart will start to bring the price down and clearance him. I'll wait till he hits $20
 
How much is your nostalgia worth... $20 is the most you should pay.. Not even that if you ask me.


How do you charge triple for a 30 year old toy...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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