1. The collar does not completely please me either. Getting collars to lay correctly on dolls is always tricky.
I will experiment some when I have the actual printed fabric, because one trick is getting each piece of the blouse to show the same part of the design as the actual screen blouse. The fact Hot Toys necks run a bit small actually makes that even harder as in the rest of the blouse matches well, but the collar has to run a tad big to match. The shirt fits better on an EVA, but the pants I made fit the HT ALice perfectly.
I am not kato. unfortunately, but I do want this to look as accurate and well fitted as possible.
2. The real blouse was probably either matte silk or silk-cotton based on its sheen and the way it drapes. Honestly at that scale the silk helps it lie better, unless you used super thin cotton (which would not be suitable for holding a print).