Endless Summer... is it in you?

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I used to surf at Ocean City, then when I went to Hawaii, I surfed 2 days Waikiki and got my ass kicked on the North Shore for about 45 minutes.

Haven't had the desire to get on a NJ wave since.
 
None? Wow!

Surfing is and has been a huge part of my life. It's more to me than just an activity or sport- it's more of a spiritual adventure. Being in the ocean alone with your thoughts and facing the horizon looking for the next perfect wave is... just a wonderful experience.

Too many sharks.:emperor
 
I have seen plenty of sharks, luckily none have attacked me. It's the sting rays you have to be more worried about. You have to always remember to do the sting ray shuffle on a sandy bottom.

On the topic of sharks, I remember surfing an inlet that was practically infested with sharks. While we were paddling out a little baby shark about the size of my arm jumped on to this girl's board. I was freaked out. I wanted to turn back around but for some reason I didn't. I am glad I didn't turn around that day- great surf! Plus, I saw about 2 more sharks that day. One through a wave trying to catch a school of fish and another HUGE one jumping up out of the water. The last one was way too big for me so I decided it was time to pack it up and head home. :lol Seriously, the sound that shark made when it hit the water again was thick and massive.

Usually if you see a fin it's the fin of a dolphin. Sharks won't warn you with their fins they will just eat you by surprise because they come up from the bottom. In all my years of surfing I have never seen a shark attack, and trust me when I say that I have surfed a lot. I practically missed my junior and senior years of high school because they were spent at the beach. :lol
 
I used to surf at Ocean City, then when I went to Hawaii, I surfed 2 days Waikiki and got my ass kicked on the North Shore for about 45 minutes.

Haven't had the desire to get on a NJ wave since.

When I came back from Costa Rica I felt the same way. Plus the water feels more polluted here as well. It's a shame. :monkey2
 
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