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Damn that looks amazing. And price is pretty reasonable too. Thanks again for offering it!

Thanks @davejames, the prices are cheaper than the pictures above and each model has a few options for materials/ pricing.
 
What material do you recommend for the Fusion2 part?

Edit: Never mind. I just went with the extreme detail.
 
What material do you recommend for the Fusion2 part?

Edit: Never mind. I just went with the extreme detail.
The extreme detail is your best choice for detail. Soak all the parts in warm soapy water, or water and thinned simple green to get off the wax residue from printing. You really don't have to sand the non clear parts, but if you do sand before primer, hit with 400,600,and 1000 grit to avoid orange peel texture. I wet sand with 1500 very lightly after paint to get a real smooth and glossy finish. The only part that requires the most sanding is the clear parts. Follow the same sanding as above, but hit with clear gloss spray paint after sanding. A good way to test if the clear parts are ready for clear gloss is to run the piece under water. If it's clear, no scratches, you can hit with gloss. The parts at this stage ,before the clear gloss paint, will fog back up if you blow on them or let them dry, this is normal. The peg on the clear cup part may need to be sanded a bit to fit, height wise.
Pm me if you have questions.
I'm going to try to make some decals for these too. :)
 
The extreme detail is your best choice for detail. Soak all the parts in warm soapy water, or water and thinned simple green to get off the wax residue from printing. You really don't have to sand the non clear parts, but if you do sand before primer, hit with 400,600,and 1000 grit to avoid orange peel texture. I wet sand with 1500 very lightly after paint to get a real smooth and glossy finish. The only part that requires the most sanding is the clear parts. Follow the same sanding as above, but hit with clear gloss spray paint after sanding. A good way to test if the clear parts are ready for clear gloss is to run the piece under water. If it's clear, no scratches, you can hit with gloss. The parts at this stage ,before the clear gloss paint, will fog back up if you blow on them or let them dry, this is normal. The peg on the clear cup part may need to be sanded a bit to fit, height wise.
Pm me if you have questions.
I'm going to try to make some decals for these too. :)

Ugh, too much work. I’m a busy man. 🤔
 
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/lriendl14

I added the four needed models to my shapeways store. i tried to hollow out the models where i could to eliminate needed material. I myself printed all of the four models in "Frosted Ultra Detail". The Black Singer Base i have offered in Black plastic, which is considerably cheaper. This isn't a terribly detailed piece, so I aim thinking it should do okay with the cheaper material, but i personally have not printed the Singer Base in the material. I have also included this in the Frosted Ultra Detail material as well.
View attachment 395178
The Krupps piece does need to be a bit more detailed, so I offered it under "frosted Ultra and Extreme Detail". I have altered my original model to add the screw holes on the passenger side. i added a hole to align the coffee grinder cup. I also added to lower knob on the backside. I added the cheaper material here too, the White plastic, but again i have not printed this model in this material. i have printed the white plastic before, it is a bit grainy and may lose some of the knob detail.
View attachment 395186
I altered the latch as well. In BTTF 1 we see a smaller release handle within the latch, and in BTTF2 and 3, that handle has been broken off. I originally printed the latch and the small hinge that attaches to the Singer Base as two parts, but i wanted to attempt to print as one piece (latch and hinge). since i am not sure if the pieces are large enough to actual hinge, i offered them as separate pieces as well. So you get 4 latches. I included a better detail piece that will attach to the Singer Base as well. i can make this as one piece to save a few dollars upon request.
View attachment 395190
And finally the clear parts. the top part has not changed. The cup i added in a "peg" on the bottom to line up with the Krupps grinder. The clear parts come frosted, but with a bit of sanding with high grit sandpaper 1500 or 2500 and a light coat of Clear Gloss spray paint, it will turn of crystal clear.
View attachment 395192

I took all the mark-ups off to get this the lowest price it could be.



Well I have made two prototype license plates.. I'll post pictures of those in a bit :)




LOL Thanks @KingGrayskull ! I am glad that I can help others!

Looks like my post didn't make it in the backup before the board crashed.

Anyway, I founf this graphic the other day. Might be useful.

mr_fusion.jpg
 
View attachment 394603View attachment 394604View attachment 394605View attachment 394606
Okay I got some measurements and I'm finalizing the model which is almost ready to upload to Shapeways. I'm starting work ohh the reactor cover now as well. I also whipped up a license plate, which is printed on reflective mirrored vinyl. Looked pretty cool in person.

This looks AMAZING, thank you for offering it up to everyone here!

My only question is what do you use to connect the latch of the Krupps piece to the black base?
Is there a peg or what do you recommend to buy?
 
This looks AMAZING, thank you for offering it up to everyone here!

My only question is what do you use to connect the latch of the Krupps piece to the black base?
Is there a peg or what do you recommend to buy?

Thanks, I'm glad I could help!
I was able to fit a very small sewing needle through the hinge and just snip of the ends. I modeled a "bolt cap" to go over the holes, but it was way too small to print.

I may offer painting/ assembling for those who want to ship the printed models to me.
I made a prototype waterslide decal as well. I know the numbers are upside down. I had to print in reverse and very small, but fortunately they can be removed before a clear coat is applied.
20180227_072317.jpg
 
Here’s the Mr Fusion unpainted and unsanded printed with the cheapest material. I also bought one printed in the highest quality that Lriendl is painting for me. Lriendl14 (Lance) did a great job designing this. Highly recommended.

E12C51D2-D2B7-4894-9370-28783E513FC7.jpg
 
BTW... I looked back at the hot toys Delorean II pics. Their Mr Fusion looks pretty off.

2F3AC3D6-1175-4C2A-B6FF-EAA697BE9D4B.jpg
 
Have you tried Hunters? The new ones don’t have the black around the lettering.
 
Here’s the Mr Fusion unpainted and unsanded printed with the cheapest material. I also bought one printed in the highest quality that Lriendl is painting for me. Lriendl14 (Lance) did a great job designing this. Highly recommended.

View attachment 401030
Thanks!! Here are some finished mods, coming your way!
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Hey guys anybody ever opened and took off the hood part? I got all the screws off but it seems like its connected to the front head lights.
My headlights work but the rest of the lighting don't.
 
Hey guys I need help removing the rear sections of the delorean.

Please stop sending PMs with your private number telling me to call you and messaging me in other threads that have nothing to do with this project. You can see I've not touched the Delorean for over a year and a half. Mine is still in parts, in storage because I've had not time to do anything else with it. I also don't use this forum much anymore. Just a few threads. Sorry, but I simply don't have the time to help you - I thought that would be obvious when I didn't reply to your first message.

I'm sure someone else in here will be happy to help you or you can read all the posts. Taking it apart is not rocket science, just takes time and patience.

Thanks.
 
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