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The good thing about taking the seats out is that the carpet can be more thorough/accurate.

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Now I'm just behind BPBN on the circuits and trying to decide what way to go.

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Thats how it looks like from inside:

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Again i am in test mode. I didnt peel of the white paper from the film because the light looks much nicer so.

The only thing i dont like is that the plastic hot toys used is too thick. The numbers are too deep inside for my taste . So i sanded it a little bit to make it thinner.

Now I'm just behind BPBN on the circuits and trying to decide what way to go.

Nice!!
 
That's looking good. Yes - the paper still being on is a good idea - diffused.

I'm looking at the main cluster too. Unfortunately, I don't think it's going to be so easy.

It's printed, but black on the other side.

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A problem for another day :) And i am pretty sure we will get through that too!

Good night!
 
Have you considered shapeways?
They can print in metal now.

I can't do the 3D design they'd need.

But the designers can...
Find someone who does something similar and ask them to make you a new display, either to be printed out in metal or plastic(If you just got the current one printed out in clear, then you can just backlight it.
I know a couple of guys that could perhaps help you out.
They worked on files i had printed out and i didn't design the files. Just gave them the reference.

Some 3d printed weapons i sent them reference of and they made the files:


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81B0E98A-A8F1-475B-8A69-DC0F7E58AB3D.jpg



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Would be interesting to see, if it's not mega expensive etc.

I'm going to see my engineer friends sometime soon. I have a few ideas how to tackle it. Mainly by remaking that piece, with the displays cut out, but thinner and then acetate - similar to the way BPBN has done it. Then it saves me having to cut/destroy/mod the original.

I guess that's more or less what your suggesting, but 3D printed. However, going to my friends, they'll have the piece in their hands and can make an exact replica.
 
Would be interesting to see, if it's not mega expensive etc.

I'm going to see my engineer friends sometime soon. I have a few ideas how to tackle it. Mainly by remaking that piece, with the displays cut out, but thinner and then acetate - similar to the way BPBN has done it. Then it saves me having to cut/destroy/mod the original.

I guess that's more or less what your suggesting, but 3D printed. However, going to my friends, they'll have the piece in their hands and can make an exact replica.

If you can do a drawing of the thing in exact 1/6, that would be the same thing. Those weapons above were about £20 apiece. Even factoring in an hour making the file, it wouldn't be much more than that, especially if he makes it for sale on Shapeways and a few people here order one.
 
I have tech drawing experience WAY back in my past. So, I could definitely do that as an option.

I can't find where I put my digital vernier - it's an expensive one too. So, it looks like I'll have to grab a cheap one off Amazon this week. There's a Von Haus for £12 that might do the job.
 
Thoughts? Im not sure myself as once its stuck in place, thats it. Its the same colour ive used for the footwell.

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I thought about that but i havent got any at present. It may work as long as the tape stays stuck to the back of the fabric

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It will be fine to prove a point at least.

Also, you'll have to find a way to neaten the edges etc. Doubt you can just glue it on.

There's specific double-sided for fabric too.
 
That's the kind of stuff I was meaning. Although, I thought carpet tape would be over the top for the job - it's tough stuff. As I said, fabric tape would be better, IMO. You only want to see what it looks like before making it permanent, after all.

Another tape that would be strong enough to hold so you can see, but easy to peel off, is that fashion tape women use on their breasts - to hold dress hemlines in place. It's cheap too.
 
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