1/6 DID NS80175 U.S. Civil War Union Army Lieutenant – John Dunbar (Kevin Costner, Dances with Wolves) + E60076 1/6 Horse (Cisco)

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I watched Costner's Horizon: An American Saga - Chapter 1 the other day.

The main action takes place in 1863, the same year as Dances with Wolves.

If DID are looking for inspiration for their next Union cavalryman in this series, then Michael Rooker's Sgt. Major Thomas Riordan would be a good one:

horizon-an-american-saga-chapter-1-905.jpg


There's Sam Worthington's Trent Gephart, but he's another First Lieutenant like John Dunbar:

Sam-Worthington-1.jpg
 
Nice to see everything is already attached weird that they make you put the US branding on though.

I think it's because they must've seen the complaints that the horse couldn't be used for non-US Army purposes, so they've given the option to have Cisco unbranded.

I find water slide transfers a scary prospect because they're so easy to mess up completely, or misalign if you don't get them right quick enough.


The first result from a search to check on branding regulations had this information:

In 1853, the United States military started branding their horses on the left shoulder with the "US" mark showing the horses belonged to the United States government. In the mid 1880s, the branding was modified to include the number of the regiment below the company's letter on the left hip. When a horse was decommissioned, it was branded with a "C" for "condemned" on its right shoulder.

Tracking individual horses in the military had become an arduous task. Farriers relied on physical descriptions in their logs to track when each horse was last shod and their age. Can you imagine trying to track twenty bay horses with star markings or twenty chestnuts? As one can imagine, this method proved to be very inaccurate and disorganized.

Around the time of the American Civil War (1861-1865,) the Preston system was developed where a unique four-digit serial number was burned into the front hoof of each horse. The problem with hoof branding was farriers needed to re-brand the numbers every six months and sometimes the numbers would become illegible if the hoof wall was damaged. In 1912, the military started experimenting with lip tattoos placed on the inside upper lip for identification. By WWI, lip tattooing had replaced hoof branding.

us-horse_1.jpeg


US Army horse branded on the left shoulder. Taken August 1863 Bealeton, Virginia. Army of the Potomac headquarters. Captain Henry Page, Assistant Quartermaster.

https://horsesinmoviesandtv.weebly.com/blog/spirit-horse-branding#comments
 
I find water slide transfers a scary prospect because they're so easy to mess up completely, or misalign if you don't get them right quick enough.
I don't have a problem with them. They seem kinda scary, but if you make sure they are properly wetted in some lukewarm water and the surface (Cisco in this case) is also a bit wet you can slip and slide it in to place for quite a while before it sets.

I'd recommend using some sort of tool to remove the decal from the paper. I mostly use a (closed) pair of blunt pincers, to just slide it in place. When the decal is in place gently soak up the excess water with a cotton swab and push down on it a bit with the swab to make it stick in place.

If you have some kind of decal fluid (used by scalemodellers) you can apply that. It softens up the decal and it will make it creep more into crevises. I can imagine the horse being not super smooth, so it might be a good thing to use to give it a natural look. Leave the fluid on the decal for a couple of minutes and then gently press on it with a cotton swab to really secure it in place.
 
I don't have a problem with them. They seem kinda scary, but if you make sure they are properly wetted in some lukewarm water and the surface (Cisco in this case) is also a bit wet you can slip and slide it in to place for quite a while before it sets.

I'd recommend using some sort of tool to remove the decal from the paper. I mostly use a (closed) pair of blunt pincers, to just slide it in place. When the decal is in place gently soak up the excess water with a cotton swab and push down on it a bit with the swab to make it stick in place.

If you have some kind of decal fluid (used by scalemodellers) you can apply that. It softens up the decal and it will make it creep more into crevises. I can imagine the horse being not super smooth, so it might be a good thing to use to give it a natural look. Leave the fluid on the decal for a couple of minutes and then gently press on it with a cotton swab to really secure it in place.

Good tips.

My only recent experience with decals has been with the ones that needed to go onto DID's German helmets. They weren't bad since the surface was smooth, but I never look forward to doing them.
 
On a positive note I'm really pleased Cisco is releasing so close to Dunbar, as I need the J.E.B. Stuart saber hanger for the second figure. (Hopefully it's already on the horse since it's not visible as an accessory in the box).


Kit shipped out the Dunbars five days after DID's announcement he would be "available in Asia soon". They they flew through the postal system together and departed from the airport a day later.
 
My Dunbars were travelling together and were both scheduled for delivery tomorrow.

However, one progressed through the system three hours faster overnight and is now due to be delivered today.

That could be a record for 4PX: 5 days total.

I considered 6 days pretty good as the average is 7-9.


It's quite good having them split over two days, otherwise I always feel compelled to build everything the day it arrives.
 
Besides the wandering eye there's a much more noticeable problem.

As I was taking the jacket off to put his vest on I realised all four buttons were missing from the cuffs.

IMG_2979.JPG
IMG_2980.JPG



So much for all the quality control pass stickers on the box.
 
I finished the figure except for applying the rank straps. They're just resting precariously on his shoulders. I've contacted Kit about the QC problem, so hopefully DID will replace the faulty jacket.

After putting the vest on I realised it wasn't intended to be worn under the jacket. The jacket is too tight to close over it.

The figure was a nightmare from start to finish. Beginning with the uncharacteristic misaligned eye and the missing jacket buttons.

Then I think the sash and belt have taken the top spot for most annoying process in setting up a DID figure.

Slowing DID's video down to 0.25 and watching it multiple times I tried to work out what they were doing with the sash and think I got it. Though actually doing it isn't so easy.

Then with the Sam Browne strap over his shoulder you have to fasten the belt without messing up the sash. Meanwhile the buckle is prone to sliding straight off the end of the belt because the keeper isn't tight enough to grip it.

Attaching the saber scabbard is quite simple. I tried to hook it up onto the short strap for dismounted wear, as worn here by Sgt. Major Riordan...

523311-horizon-an-american-saga-chapter-1-905.jpg


...but it won't stay hanging the right way round and automatically turns back over on itself.

So that's a no go.

Putting the rounds into the Colt was going fine until the fourth one proved to be too fat and got wedged halfway in. I managed to eventually push it back out and tried the last round instead. This one went in quite well until it stopped short. I couldn't remove it so used brute force to push it a little further in. I got it just far enough to allow the cylinder to rotate sop I could hide the cartridge in the bottom chamber.


I wish DID would take a leaf out of Facepool's book and sculpt gloves instead of persisting with fabric over bendy hands. They end up looking like oven mitts, and the bendy hands can't grip anything properly anyway. I tried the gauntlets on Dunbar and looked ridiculous. His hands looked massive, and as the fingers didn't reach the ends so they looked unnaturally long. Then there's the jacket cuffs which show through the fabric of the gauntlets as an unsightly bulk. Sculpted plastic would've contained the cuffs invisibly.

On top of that there's no proper right gripping hand for the saber, even though the saber was intended to be right handed - hence cavalry revolver holsters being designed for left draw.


Rant over, until the next one arrives tomorrow. :lol
 
I used a spare right gripping hand from another DID figure. It's better than the two trigger finger options provided, but still not tight enough.

The wayward eye is really off putting when photographed.

IMG_2989 DID Dunbar.JPG
IMG_2993 DID Dunbar.JPG

IMG_2992 DID Dunbar.JPG
IMG_2991 DID Dunbar.JPG
IMG_2990 DID Dunbar.JPG
 
This figure was intended to ride Cisco and hold the guidon, so he really needed to be wearing gauntlets, and this is all they need to accomplish:

DID Cisco - US Cavalry horse 1.jpg


I haven't got any moulded ones in the right colour that flare enough to go over his jacket sleeves, so I went back and worked on DID's again and tested them...

IMG_2994.JPG


They really are quite ugly and useless. The bendy fingers won't even grip the spear, which slides right through them.

So how did DID manage it for their photo shoot?

It looks like they wedged the end against his leg:

DID Cisco - US Cavalry horse 6.jpg


In the film Dunbar wedged it into his boot:

vlcsnap-2024-07-26-18h57m42s836.png


This should work with the figure too since at that stage Dunbar was carrying the guidon lower than in DID's promo photos.

vlcsnap-2024-07-26-19h03m07s688.png

Dances with Wolves clips (5).png


While I was in that section of the film I also screen grabbed him tying the sash, and also the position of the percussion cap box (which he must be using for Colt cartridges).

The sash is left very long, which means you needn't follow DID's unboxing directions and wrap it twice round his waist. It's placed lower, covering the bottom of his jacket, and I think it's also tied differently to DID's method. It may be as simple as two knots followed by pulling a section up under the waist of the sash and draping it over the top as in the screencap above. That should be easier to do than DID made it appear.

Dances with Wolves clips (1).png
Dances with Wolves clips (2).png
Dances with Wolves clips (3).png
Dances with Wolves clips (4).png



Due to the faulty jacket my figure is currently a temporary testing ground. When the other one arrives tomorrow, presuming it actually passed quality control correctly, I'll set him up as in the film.
 
I love the way this looks and he looks way better and more natural in your pictures Asta. Real shame on that quality control, the eye looks awful I would contact kit and see if he can get you a replacement head and Jacket from DiD.
 
I love the way this looks and he looks way better and more natural in your pictures Asta. Real shame on that quality control, the eye looks awful I would contact kit and see if he can get you a replacement head and Jacket from DiD.

I did contact Kit about the sculpt and jacket. He's added it to his long list of replacement claims to handle. (I'm guessing they're not all DID complaints!)

It's been rare for DID to make mistakes like this. I've never had a sculpt with a wonky eye before, and the only missing part was the skull from Otto Skorzeny's cap a few months ago which Kit was able to get and send out very fast.
 
OneSixthKit is the best in the business!

He's already got it sorted, in spite of DID not seeming to want to play ball to start with. At first they didn't agree to send a sculpt, and were asking for shipping costs to send the sculpt and jacket back to Hong Kong which would then be refunded.

When I said rather than going through the fuss and having the figure in limbo, I would live with the sculpt as under the hat and unless I didn't shine a bright light in his face I wouldn't see his "awful" eye (though I'd always know it was there). I also said I could take four buttons from the top of one of the cape coats where they wouldn't show, and stitch them on myself.

Kit didn't give up though. He pushed back and the final compromise was a new sculpt and buttons!

In Kit we trust.
 
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