Action Figure Cursed Jack Sparrow
- Thread starter Dizzyarse
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Looks fantastic!
cokebabies
Super Freak
The new hands look fantastic.
This is shaping up very nicely.
This is shaping up very nicely.
bruce_brucee02
Freaked Out
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you are one talented dude!! you should post up a tutorial once its all done!
Well, not a lot of progress the last couple of days... work keeps rearing it's ugly head and diverting me from my hobby.
I did, however, make a decision on what to do about the hair.
The rubber dreads were not right, so next I tried with some black embroidery thread which, although not the shade of brown I would have liked, at least hung like hair. But still not happy. Then a purchase from eBay arrived... the HT Jack Sparrow hair. I was originally only going to use this for referencing the beads and other hair accessories, but once I put it on the head I had to admit it was the one to go with!
I have to do some work on the bandana, and perhaps take out a dread or two, but it looks so damn good there is little point in re-inventing the wheel as it were.
This week I will get the skeleton articulation started.
Dizzy
I did, however, make a decision on what to do about the hair.
The rubber dreads were not right, so next I tried with some black embroidery thread which, although not the shade of brown I would have liked, at least hung like hair. But still not happy. Then a purchase from eBay arrived... the HT Jack Sparrow hair. I was originally only going to use this for referencing the beads and other hair accessories, but once I put it on the head I had to admit it was the one to go with!
I have to do some work on the bandana, and perhaps take out a dread or two, but it looks so damn good there is little point in re-inventing the wheel as it were.
This week I will get the skeleton articulation started.
Dizzy
Now the difficult stuff begins... taking a 1/6 skeleton model kit and adding decent joints.
I will be using a selection of leg ball joints left over from TT bodies and some HT wrist joints.
The waist and hips will be from a TT body as I need the extra width or the trousers and belts will keep falling off.
The first picture shows the parts laid out, with the joints in the positions they will go on.
The second and third show progress of the thigh and shin bones with the wrist joint added for the knee articulation. I was lucky on this bit as there was enough overlap from the bones to cut in and drill where the joint lug needs inserting. Then a little creative filling with miliput and you can barely see it.
It should be strong enough for the figure to stand up on its own too.
Dizzy
I will be using a selection of leg ball joints left over from TT bodies and some HT wrist joints.
The waist and hips will be from a TT body as I need the extra width or the trousers and belts will keep falling off.
The first picture shows the parts laid out, with the joints in the positions they will go on.
The second and third show progress of the thigh and shin bones with the wrist joint added for the knee articulation. I was lucky on this bit as there was enough overlap from the bones to cut in and drill where the joint lug needs inserting. Then a little creative filling with miliput and you can barely see it.
It should be strong enough for the figure to stand up on its own too.
Dizzy
Uncanny Web-Slinger
Super Freak
Looking great, can't wait to see the finished product. 
And a little more progress on the legs.
I took the TT waist and removed the legs completely to expose the hinged ball joints. These have a lug at the bottom which usually forms part of the swivel mechanism that allows the legs to rotate. These have a small hole at the bottom centre, which I drilled deeper and wide enough to just fit the femur (thigh bone) about 1/4 inch to secure. Remember I am using this part of the TT body so the trousers will stay up!
I took the head off both the femurs, and then they can be pushed in, but still allow rotation.
I took a pair of ankle ball joints next, sanded down one ball of each to have a long plug, which then got inserted into each ankle. Then lashings of superglue, and allowed it to dry.
All the way along I was checking that bones and joints were the same length... there is nothing worse than working for ages on something that comes out all wonky because you haven't checked your measurements!
Then a quick check of how the legs will work with the boots.
Over the coming weekend I will be doing the pelvic region. Possibly the arms too.
The final picture is from halley42 on Deviant art, and illustrates the look this figure should have at the end of the build.
Dizzy
I took the TT waist and removed the legs completely to expose the hinged ball joints. These have a lug at the bottom which usually forms part of the swivel mechanism that allows the legs to rotate. These have a small hole at the bottom centre, which I drilled deeper and wide enough to just fit the femur (thigh bone) about 1/4 inch to secure. Remember I am using this part of the TT body so the trousers will stay up!
I took the head off both the femurs, and then they can be pushed in, but still allow rotation.
I took a pair of ankle ball joints next, sanded down one ball of each to have a long plug, which then got inserted into each ankle. Then lashings of superglue, and allowed it to dry.
All the way along I was checking that bones and joints were the same length... there is nothing worse than working for ages on something that comes out all wonky because you haven't checked your measurements!
Then a quick check of how the legs will work with the boots.
Over the coming weekend I will be doing the pelvic region. Possibly the arms too.
The final picture is from halley42 on Deviant art, and illustrates the look this figure should have at the end of the build.
Dizzy
galactiboy
OT Preferist
This is some seriously awesome work! You never disappoint 
V-Raptor
Super Freak
U ROCK! A couple of weekend updates for you, and its' all about the articulation.
So firstly the shoulders.
The socket part of the shoulder joints is glued firmly to the inside of the shoulder blade, and a small piece of wire used across between the two joints to secure them and give some stability.
The wire is a cut section of coat hanger.
The socket for the neck joint is fitted in the same way, and a little bit of sculpting with Miliput is used to match the ragged flesh on the face, and disguise the joint.
When the front section of ribs is added it will barely be noticeable.
After assembling the inside spinal section, the ball for the joint in the base of the back is drilled and screwed into the bottom of it.
It is important to paint the inside before assembling the front rib section...
Dizzy
So firstly the shoulders.
The socket part of the shoulder joints is glued firmly to the inside of the shoulder blade, and a small piece of wire used across between the two joints to secure them and give some stability.
The wire is a cut section of coat hanger.
The socket for the neck joint is fitted in the same way, and a little bit of sculpting with Miliput is used to match the ragged flesh on the face, and disguise the joint.
When the front section of ribs is added it will barely be noticeable.
After assembling the inside spinal section, the ball for the joint in the base of the back is drilled and screwed into the bottom of it.
It is important to paint the inside before assembling the front rib section...
Dizzy
galactiboy
OT Preferist
Love it 
Next the pelvic socket for the spine to slot into.
It has to be at the right height, and took some drilling out of the TT waist and the model kit pelvis to get the fit right.
I got the tops of the hips just sticking up over the top so they should show when the trousers are put over the top.
Then the bit that has taken all night... attaching the front section of the ribs. Each individual rib on the model has to have the front attached to the back, and have to be done 1 at a time. The ends are flat, and have to be butted together, so you have to glue one, wait for the glue to fully bond, then do the next. If not they pop apart.
Added to that I managed to stick myself to the ribs several times, and now have no finger prints!
Once finished it can be assembled, and the joints checked for stability.
I always think that the true test of a good build is that the figure can stand independently. And there it is.
Just the arms and head joints left, a detail coat of paint, and some clothes to shred.
Dizzy
It has to be at the right height, and took some drilling out of the TT waist and the model kit pelvis to get the fit right.
I got the tops of the hips just sticking up over the top so they should show when the trousers are put over the top.
Then the bit that has taken all night... attaching the front section of the ribs. Each individual rib on the model has to have the front attached to the back, and have to be done 1 at a time. The ends are flat, and have to be butted together, so you have to glue one, wait for the glue to fully bond, then do the next. If not they pop apart.
Added to that I managed to stick myself to the ribs several times, and now have no finger prints!
Once finished it can be assembled, and the joints checked for stability.
I always think that the true test of a good build is that the figure can stand independently. And there it is.
Just the arms and head joints left, a detail coat of paint, and some clothes to shred.
Dizzy
galactiboy
OT Preferist
Wow! And the fact it actually stands is just insane! Thanks for sharing all the WIP shots, really helps to illustrate how much work is going into this.
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