1/6 Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects / Display Base Mods
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Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
Unfortunately, the halls are quite high up, stacked and quite inaccessible so a picture would not be possible for the time being until I set up my final layout. The wires aren't much to look at though. I just tried my best to tidy up the mass with zip ties and it resulted in a look that my OCD can accept.
Unfortunately, the halls are quite high up, stacked and quite inaccessible so a picture would not be possible for the time being until I set up my final layout. The wires aren't much to look at though. I just tried my best to tidy up the mass with zip ties and it resulted in a look that my OCD can accept.
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
I understand
My OCD led to my eventual modification of the bay and I was able to completely enclose the wiring inside the units.
When you do you final lay out please snap a picture and post it to this thread.
Thanks
I understand
My OCD led to my eventual modification of the bay and I was able to completely enclose the wiring inside the units.
When you do you final lay out please snap a picture and post it to this thread.
Thanks
Last edited:
ScottPSU
Super Freak
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
Thanks; that's a slick way of making each wall independently disconnectible. Very cool!
Thanks; that's a slick way of making each wall independently disconnectible. Very cool!
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
If you find the right crimping tool you can even do custom lengths for the ends that leads to the wall. The metal terminals are removable from those tiny connectors. This would negate the need for any tape or shrink wrap on the wires.
If you find the right crimping tool you can even do custom lengths for the ends that leads to the wall. The metal terminals are removable from those tiny connectors. This would negate the need for any tape or shrink wrap on the wires.
ScottPSU
Super Freak
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
I've tried to process this for a few days but can't understand how this eliminates the need for tape or shrink wrap. None would be needed at the walls since the connectors handle that, but on the non-wall end of the connector, it has to be connected (taped) to longer wires from each wall and to the power adapter. How does removing the metal ends of the connectors eliminate the need for this?
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
Hey, apologies...what I meant to say was custom lengths for the ends that lead to the power adapter. If you refer to the picture I posted above you'll see that on the male connector there are two silver rectangular openings. By using a small pin and pressing lightly on one of the tabs, you'll be able to extract the actual wire and molex pin from the connector. Inside you will find a metal molex type pin attached to the wire.
Here in HK they sell new molex pins and if you have a crimping tool like this you can actually replace the default pin with a new pin and wire of any length and eliminate the need for tape or heat shrink tubing. If on the chance you cant find the particular molex pins for the connectors you are using where you live then the old connector can also be reused but you'll have to solder the the new wire onto the old molex pin. There are many tutorials on the internet explaining this. Here is just a random one I found. Please refer to the cable gripping section.
If this is too time consuming then I would at the very least recommend using heat shrink tubing since tape tends to lose its 'stick' over time.
Hope that helps, best of luck.
Hey, apologies...what I meant to say was custom lengths for the ends that lead to the power adapter. If you refer to the picture I posted above you'll see that on the male connector there are two silver rectangular openings. By using a small pin and pressing lightly on one of the tabs, you'll be able to extract the actual wire and molex pin from the connector. Inside you will find a metal molex type pin attached to the wire.
Here in HK they sell new molex pins and if you have a crimping tool like this you can actually replace the default pin with a new pin and wire of any length and eliminate the need for tape or heat shrink tubing. If on the chance you cant find the particular molex pins for the connectors you are using where you live then the old connector can also be reused but you'll have to solder the the new wire onto the old molex pin. There are many tutorials on the internet explaining this. Here is just a random one I found. Please refer to the cable gripping section.
If this is too time consuming then I would at the very least recommend using heat shrink tubing since tape tends to lose its 'stick' over time.
Hope that helps, best of luck.
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
Unfortunately, my understanding of electronics is rudimentary at best. Would it be possible to elaborate Boba? I will be adding more halls and setting up my halls in a new location soon and any ideas are very welcome. With my current setup the one thing that bothers me is the method in which my mass of wires terminate. I use an adapter and twist all the red wires into one side, screw them down, and do the same for the black wires. In turn this adapter runs into my power supply. I was hoping for a cleaner way of terminating all the wires before they reached the power supply. Any ideas? Thanks
EDIT: This is what I'm currently using.
Unfortunately, my understanding of electronics is rudimentary at best. Would it be possible to elaborate Boba? I will be adding more halls and setting up my halls in a new location soon and any ideas are very welcome. With my current setup the one thing that bothers me is the method in which my mass of wires terminate. I use an adapter and twist all the red wires into one side, screw them down, and do the same for the black wires. In turn this adapter runs into my power supply. I was hoping for a cleaner way of terminating all the wires before they reached the power supply. Any ideas? Thanks
EDIT: This is what I'm currently using.
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
A splice is a way to connect wires in a safe permanent way.
They there are several types of splices that can be completed with crimping tools and there are non crimped splices that you make the connection by crushing them with your fingers or a pair of pliers.
You would run the leads from your power supply to the first connector. Then at that connector you would splice the power supply leads into one side of the splice and 2 leads into the other side, one set would be wires that are long enough to reach the next bay and the other set would be the leads from the plug that connects to the wall.
You would have to do a splice for each wire
Here is an example of a barrel splice that has to be crimped, this is the way I would do it since everything would be in a straight line.
They mixed the wire colors, obviously if your using red for + and black for the ground you would not cross them like this.
This is an example of a splice you crush with your fingers or pliers, I would not use this method because the wires would be all over the place
A splice is a way to connect wires in a safe permanent way.
They there are several types of splices that can be completed with crimping tools and there are non crimped splices that you make the connection by crushing them with your fingers or a pair of pliers.
You would run the leads from your power supply to the first connector. Then at that connector you would splice the power supply leads into one side of the splice and 2 leads into the other side, one set would be wires that are long enough to reach the next bay and the other set would be the leads from the plug that connects to the wall.
You would have to do a splice for each wire
Here is an example of a barrel splice that has to be crimped, this is the way I would do it since everything would be in a straight line.
They mixed the wire colors, obviously if your using red for + and black for the ground you would not cross them like this.
This is an example of a splice you crush with your fingers or pliers, I would not use this method because the wires would be all over the place
ScottPSU
Super Freak
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
Justme,
Did you wire the base lighting into the walls, too? At the suggestion of Boba Debt, I was thinking of using the item shown below to do it. If I understood correctly, you just plug this into the jack on the back of any of the connected units, cut off the clip ends of it, and twist the bare wires into the pack of wires from the walls.
Justme,
Did you wire the base lighting into the walls, too? At the suggestion of Boba Debt, I was thinking of using the item shown below to do it. If I understood correctly, you just plug this into the jack on the back of any of the connected units, cut off the clip ends of it, and twist the bare wires into the pack of wires from the walls.
hockeyflow33
Super Freak
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
With how much these costs I'm petrified to use my MacGuyver electrician skills on any of these!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With how much these costs I'm petrified to use my MacGuyver electrician skills on any of these!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
There isn't any "right" way to do this which is why I created this thread. So people can share how they made it work in their situation.
If you read all of the posts in this thread you should have a pretty good idea of what will work for you.
BTW: There may not be a right way but there is a wrong way, NEVER exceed the 4.5vdc requirement for the units.
As long as you stay with 4.5vdc you shouldn't burn up anything.
There isn't any "right" way to do this which is why I created this thread. So people can share how they made it work in their situation.
If you read all of the posts in this thread you should have a pretty good idea of what will work for you.
BTW: There may not be a right way but there is a wrong way, NEVER exceed the 4.5vdc requirement for the units.
As long as you stay with 4.5vdc you shouldn't burn up anything.
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
Thanks for the info Boba! Greatly appreciated!
I did not wire the base lighting into the walls because I am strapped for space and wanted the freedom of shuffling the halls and/or walls around if need be. I will be working on a v2.0a or v2.0b of my wiring pretty soon when I get set up at my new place. It will definitely be an improvement to my current setup which is still a little too messy for my liking.
The v2.0a would basically be to daisy chain the mass of wires that I have so that all the wires needn't terminate all in one place.
The v2.0b setup would be to hard wire an input jack into each of the bases which would serve as an access point for the each wall. I believe this approach would be the ideal arrangement minimal wires and ultimate flexibility, basically plug and play.
At this point I'm not even sure if v2.0b is feasible until I consult with a friend. There are downsides to both approaches so I haven't decided which method I'll end up proceeding with yet.
Thanks for the info Boba! Greatly appreciated!
I did not wire the base lighting into the walls because I am strapped for space and wanted the freedom of shuffling the halls and/or walls around if need be. I will be working on a v2.0a or v2.0b of my wiring pretty soon when I get set up at my new place. It will definitely be an improvement to my current setup which is still a little too messy for my liking.
The v2.0a would basically be to daisy chain the mass of wires that I have so that all the wires needn't terminate all in one place.
The v2.0b setup would be to hard wire an input jack into each of the bases which would serve as an access point for the each wall. I believe this approach would be the ideal arrangement minimal wires and ultimate flexibility, basically plug and play.
At this point I'm not even sure if v2.0b is feasible until I consult with a friend. There are downsides to both approaches so I haven't decided which method I'll end up proceeding with yet.
ScottPSU
Super Freak
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
I couldn't find a suitable way to display my 7 Halls of Armor, so I've been building a custom shelf for it. It's finished now, and tonight, just for kicks, I decided to set up all 7 halls and try out the base lighting via the 4.5v 1.0a adapter I purchased. I'm running into trouble...
I plugged the adapter into the left-most end unit and began powering on each base. The first three lit up perfectly, but the remaining four would not light up. I checked the mechanical connection between the third and fourth halls and it seems fine - just as stable and connected as the other halls.
So, I unplugged the adapter and tried a second one (I purchased a couple of them, on the off-chance one of them was defective). Same result.
I then unplugged the adapter from the 1st hall and plugged it into the hall on the other end of the set. This time, the last four halls lit up, but not the first three.
I then tried some of the middle halls and got varying results.
I then tried connecting one adapter into one end, and another adapter into the other end, and still, not all 7 lit up.
I swapped a few of the first three units on the left side...same result. Note: I did not take one from the last four and swap it out with one from the first three; I guess I could try that.
Throughout all of this, I did notice that the electrical connection between these things seems very fragile; slight movements to the individual halls turns the lights on and off.
Any thoughts on what is going on here? Am I missing something obvious?
I couldn't find a suitable way to display my 7 Halls of Armor, so I've been building a custom shelf for it. It's finished now, and tonight, just for kicks, I decided to set up all 7 halls and try out the base lighting via the 4.5v 1.0a adapter I purchased. I'm running into trouble...
I plugged the adapter into the left-most end unit and began powering on each base. The first three lit up perfectly, but the remaining four would not light up. I checked the mechanical connection between the third and fourth halls and it seems fine - just as stable and connected as the other halls.
So, I unplugged the adapter and tried a second one (I purchased a couple of them, on the off-chance one of them was defective). Same result.
I then unplugged the adapter from the 1st hall and plugged it into the hall on the other end of the set. This time, the last four halls lit up, but not the first three.
I then tried some of the middle halls and got varying results.
I then tried connecting one adapter into one end, and another adapter into the other end, and still, not all 7 lit up.
I swapped a few of the first three units on the left side...same result. Note: I did not take one from the last four and swap it out with one from the first three; I guess I could try that.
Throughout all of this, I did notice that the electrical connection between these things seems very fragile; slight movements to the individual halls turns the lights on and off.
Any thoughts on what is going on here? Am I missing something obvious?
hockeyflow33
Super Freak
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
I'm certainly not an electrician but with my HoAs, if I connect more than 5, the lights start to dim a bit and I need to connect two plugs. Not sure if it's the same for you but maybe?
I'm certainly not an electrician but with my HoAs, if I connect more than 5, the lights start to dim a bit and I need to connect two plugs. Not sure if it's the same for you but maybe?
Re: Hot Toys Custom Hall of Armor Projects
It sounds like the blue wire that goes to the adapter socket has come detached from one of your bays.
You can isolate it by plugging the adapter into a known good unit and then connect a single units to it, one at a time, until you find the one that is not working.
Once you know which one isn't working you will need to open it up and make sure the black wire and blue wire are shorted together at the socket.
Worst case scenario detach the black wire from the socket, strip both the blue and black wire and twist them together. The wires only need to be shorted to make the current pass through the unit to the rest, they do not have to be attached to the socket
It sounds like the blue wire that goes to the adapter socket has come detached from one of your bays.
You can isolate it by plugging the adapter into a known good unit and then connect a single units to it, one at a time, until you find the one that is not working.
Once you know which one isn't working you will need to open it up and make sure the black wire and blue wire are shorted together at the socket.
Worst case scenario detach the black wire from the socket, strip both the blue and black wire and twist them together. The wires only need to be shorted to make the current pass through the unit to the rest, they do not have to be attached to the socket
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