Hot Toys- VGM07- Bio Hazard 5- 1/6 Sheva Alomar (BSAA ver)

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Alright then I will...

Er.. again if its too cataloguey let me know... here are the weapons:

PSG-1, which I must say is the only one I've been able to get to shoulder properly so far because it has the biggest stock...but still playing around with the articulation.
Removeable magazine and adjustable cheek plate...
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Benelli M3 Super 90:
Opening er...cartridge..ejector..thingy... ...and sliding... ...dealy.
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AK-74:
Removeable magazine and removeable muzzle break.
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Smith & Wesson Model 29 with opening spinning chamber and moveable hammer why not.
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Solid piece of plastic shaped like an Icatha 37...:lol
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Ok, here's the money... Vz 61 Skorpion SA, metal stock, removeable mag, opening breech..-eeey thingy and it kinda opens, as you can see...you can pull the breech right back only when it's opened up...
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Beretta 92FS slide comes off, mag removeable. The slide was very stiff on a backwards action on mine...
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more to follow.... ...?
 
Great shots Penn, loving the details!

hey thanks wookster... your Sheva and Wesker have arrived isn't it?
Are you gonna review them...cos I was interested in having a go at writing Sheva up for MWC...? didn't wanna step on your toes or anything...
 
I'm planing a review of Wesker and Sheva, but I'm working on Saizo and Chacha from Goemon right now. I'm sure there's room for two lowdowns on this particular piece of hot property. Go for your life!
 
Tell me about it...
Not to downplay the effort on HT's part at all, but CAD is a wonderful tool.


Few more:
Food Ration?...
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The head was tough to get off. So bright spark here thought, 'I know, hair drying the head a little might work...so got to work doing that then remembered:horror HT advise not to let the rubber body come into contact with heat...:banghead I dunno might be being a bit paranoid.
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The head was tough to get off. So bright spark here thought, 'I know, hair drying the head a little might work...so got to work doing that then remembered:horror HT advise not to let the rubber come into contact with heat...:banghead I dunno might be being a bit paranoid.

Nah, most people use a hair dryer for getting the heads off.........you're right bud.
 
Btw, keep those great pics coming man! :rock

Fully kitten...dah, I mean kitted. No, kitten. I prefer kitten, rowr...:monkey5

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and reverse. I eschewed (chewy goodness) the belt loop when putting the belt back on and went straight for the knife loop. It's a visual loss but a practical gain.

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Great pics, Penn! She looks pretty much perfect imo.

Thanks! Honestly I'd have to disagree with you about looking perfect, but its a lovingly crafted figure either way..:cool:

Great pics! There's still somthing a little off on the face (I think it's the nose) but still a great figure nonetheless and on my to get list!

Absolutely agree with you there. Personally, I think the head sucks balls. Lovely sculpture in one sense, but I just don't think the product looks like Sheva.

lol she kinda had a bigger donk in the game o well
Donk? er, like bum? If so yeah, that's what you get with generic 1/6 body I suppose. It doesn't really bother me, but I wouldn't have said no to an accurate body...
 
A public service to show the mechanism of Sheva's arms.... Someone requested it too...

Sheva Alomar arms (and torso) review (Hot Angel body with seamless arms)

Torso (internal and rubber body) very much the same as other Hot Angel body (Machiko/Female ERT/Silken Floss)

Upper torso held by 5 skrews
Lower torso by 4.
Ball joint for the lower ab to pelvic joint.
Spring loaded all-direction mid torso joint

About the arms

-The internal of the arms (metal/plastic) are cast in silicon moulds (from shoulder to at least 3/4 down the forearms).Because of the casting in a mould, each arm in relation to its external silicon skin will be unique.Bad casting may result in thin silicon areas that may prone to tear.

-Popping the ball shoulder joint out of the torso is very hard (at least my copy compared to previous Hot Angel/Chacha). I had to loosen some of the 5 screws of the upper torso.

-Some type of glue is added to the area at shoulder joint (green arrow, pic 3).

-Spring mechanism in each arm as indicated by the red arrow (pic 3) gives the ratcheting feel (resistance) to the bending of the elbows.

-Elbow hinge can be bent to about 140 degrees (pic 2), ...not 100 degrees.... but you'll be stressing the silicon.

-Shoulder joint far exceeds the 80 degrees limitation as stated on the instruction manual, overall around 180 degrees (green arrow, 3rd pic). Again you'll stress the silicon covering the shoulder.

-Very hard/un-giving Alloy composite metal (or steel) is used for the internal of the arms. Wrist joints are difficult to be removed from the metal loop (at least my copy, black arrow, pic 3)

-The plastic part of the internal arms are not similar in shape or thickness. The thick part of the left arm around the area indicated by the blue arrow (labled L and R arms, pic 4) may give rise to very thin silicon outer layer at the area below Sheva's tattoo (my copy).

-Sheva's left arm is painted and the paint may peel off as shown in forearm area in pic 5. I suppose a type of silicon based paint is used and the tattoo is painted or attached to the to layer of the paint, Her right arm is not painted.

pic 1
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pic 2
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pic3
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pic 4
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pic 5
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That is invaluable bandito, cheers, I shall have to liknk to this in my review if that's OK with you!
 
Excellent information, Bandito.

I had emailed HTs because the right shoulder ball joint was all but stuck and they've advised me to loosen a screw near the shoulder - this helps a lot!
As you say the rubber does get thin at the elbow when you flex it...:google
Just a little illustration of the elbow bend. This is at 105 degrees actually.
As you can see the AK stock doesn't sit at the upper arm. When you adduct the wrist the stock will move further away from the shoulder.
Coupled with the lack of bicep joint means its difficult to get a natural shouldering action. The inner balljoint helps but... ...:(

DSCF8867copy.jpg


The torso articulation isn't bad I find...

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That is invaluable bandito, cheers, I shall have to liknk to this in my review if that's OK with you!
Sure............

Excellent information, Bandito.

I had emailed HTs because the right shoulder ball joint was all but stuck and they've advised me to loosen a screw near the shoulder - this helps a lot!

Just one thing - the instructions say not to flex the elbows over 100 degrees, not 110 as you say. But as you say the rubber does get thin at the elbow when you flex it...:google
Just a little illustration of the elbow bend. This is at 105 degrees actually.
As you can see the AK stock doesn't sit at the upper arm. When you adduct the wrist the stock will move further away from the shoulder.
Coupled with the lack of bicep joint means its difficult to get a natural shouldering action. The inner balljoint helps but... ...:(
Noted and corrected...

actually not really a problem of bending it over 100, if it was properly cast in the silicon. The left arms may suffer gumming/peeling of paint as HT's Deunan's suit (if you keep the arm folded)

Initially I wanted to introduce a biceps swivel cut to the arms (the purpose of this endeavour), but after seeing it was cast in silicon instead of sleeved... back to more planning....
 
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