Fast and dirty:
I really liked it. Much more than I thought I would. I can't believe it.
Mangold really delivered on an impossible task. The first 20 mins were great -- how I wish they made a few more adventures in the 80's. I wish they did a little more on the train -- I was hoping for a really great train fight sequence (like the one in Mission Impossible's trailer right before) -- but it never really panned out. And after that, even more impressive, the rest of the movie worked for me. As I was watching, just as I started getting impatient, they threw up an action sequence. So it was structured very well for the most part. The violence was pretty hard core for an Indy movie -- I loved it. And because of that, it did have a much more "grounded" feel (at least until the end). Mads was great as hoped. I love that he was this dark parallel to Indy, also wearing a satchel and even using Indy's original name, "Dr. Smith". I also love that Mads got to represent every previous villain -- sometimes wearing a black trenchcoat (Toht), wearing gray (Donovan), a white jacket and hat (Belloq), or Nazi uniform (Vogel). And yes, I even liked Fleabag for the most part. I really liked that she was treacherous in the beginning -- she was closer to Belloq then Indy.
The stuff that didn't work for me:
1) what the hell was all that CIA nonsense about?...
2) that crazy ending that went on way too long for a literal "punch" line...
4) the McGuffin. Just dumb. And uninteresting.
3) Sadly, old man Indy. I went with it, but as much as I enjoy Ford, he's just way too old to be "doing it again". I still hate that he made this film, despite that Mangold saves his ass in doing it. I think there's mention somewhere in the movie about "time" and "knowing when to quit"... but clearly that golden advice was not headed where it was needed the most.
There's a lot of ticky tacky stuff that wasn't great, but all in all, I liked it a lot better than Crystal Skull, and to be honest I really can't tell if I prefer this or Last Crusade at this point. I need to see this again to really know how it settles... but even 'maybe' considering it for #3 is HUGE!!!