Finally got to see this last night.
I liked it a lot, but it didn't blow me away as I was hoping it would (like The Witch and Lighthouse). In a nutshell, it lacked Herzog's eeriness and Coppola's opulence. Having said that, Eggers' take owes as much to Murnau's as it does to Herzog's and Coppola's takes on the vampire story.
The positives for me are the cinematography and production values in general, the acting, editing (the entire transition of Hutter watching the Orlock's carriage approaching to him walking into the dining room is brilliant) and how Eggers takes underlying themes of Stoker's novel and Murnau's adaptation and mixes them to come up with a fresh take on the vampire myth. All the repressed sexuality of Stoker's Dracula is centre stage, coupled with Murnau's themes of the plague and occultism, plus Eastern European folklore and a nod to the historical Vlad Tepes. All of that was absolutely brilliant IMHO. I also loved how Eggers picked up Coppola's ideas of how Dracula/Orlock twists the fabric of reality, that was beautifully done. The acting in general was top-notch, but Lily-Rose Depp's performance stands out for me. Although Simon McBurney's Herr Knock was good, I think he pales in comparison to Roland Topor's quietly insane Renfield in Herzog's film, and I also feel that Dafoe overdid in some parts.
On the negative side, I felt there was a bit too much exposition. Helen had to explain too much to make her connection with Orlock clear, I think this was a perfect example of showing versus telling. And that also had the effect of having Orlock do a lot of unnecessary talking. I kept thinking of Kinski's Dracula, where every line he uttered gave the perfect amount of information about the character and his motives. And the music didn't do much for me; again, it wasn't up to Herzog's eerie Popol Vuh/Wagner soundtrack or Wojciech Kilar's amazing soundtrack for Coppola's Dracula.
Still a great movie, just not as powerful as I was hoping.