Sideshow 1/6 R2-D2

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I used 99% Isopropyl and some vigorous repeated scrubbing and couldn't get any silver paint to budge. I'm pretty sure you could soak the silver in alcohol for a day or two and it'd have no effect. But.. YMMV.

It varies over the figure, maybe dependent on certain areas where the paint isn't so deep. I know this because I did the same 99% Alcohol thing on my SSC 3PO (rubbing off the chocolate sauce weathering) and managed to rub some gold paint off. I did see a bit on the R2, but it was tiny.

But the difference on both R2 and 3PO is night and day. Both really come to life and look much more metallic.
 
If you do make any mistakes, silver Rub n Buff is a pretty exact match for the silver they used. In fact I'm tempted to smooth out the seams on mine and see if I can get an even better shine and polish just using that.

Rub 'n Buff was my initial go-to option. I figured I could get a more realistic metallic finish with it and then try weathering over it. (after sanding off that ugly seam...)
 
I like the idea of working over the blue panels. Not sure how much I focused on those, but maybe that could make the silver pop less?

The silver will still pop out, it just changes the panels from a dull grayish midnight blue to more of a vibrant metallic blue that matches the rest of the figure better.
 
I saw this on a Facebook post in a BB-8 Builder's group.
If anyone is brave enough to try repainting their dome this looks like a fantastic option.

Spaz Stick Ultimate Mirror Chrome Airbrush Paint


Screenshot 2017-02-03 23.15.41.jpg
 
I saw this on a Facebook post in a BB-8 Builder's group.
If anyone is brave enough to try repainting their dome this looks like a fantastic option.

Spaz Stick Ultimate Mirror Chrome Airbrush Paint


View attachment 321148

Never used this particular product. After reading the instructions however, it doesn't sound any different than other products out there. Black base coat followed by a light coat of the silver topped with a glossy clear. The trick to a nice finish is always proper prep and lots of sanding (before, during and after) to make sure its smooth.

Another option is simple silver metalic paint with a gloss coat over top. Sand the clear with 2000 grit, then use rubbing compound to really give it a wet look shine.

I have used rub n' buff and that stuff looks great. It leaves a greasy/waxy finish and needs to be sealed properly or it will wear off.
 
Cool! Any thoughts about hitting that mud with some gloss to make it look wet?
 
I went to turn the lights on today to compare them to HT's in that vid, and they got stuck. They wouldn't shut off when I touched the panel. so I popped the head and turned off the switch. Turned it back on and they go on with the touch panel but won't turn off. Only turn off with the inner stitch. And only the full function works, not the partial function.

Anyone else had issues like this?
 
I went to turn the lights on today to compare them to HT's in that vid, and they got stuck. They wouldn't shut off when I touched the panel. so I popped the head and turned off the switch. Turned it back on and they go on with the touch panel but won't turn off. Only turn off with the inner stitch. And only the full function works, not the partial function.

Anyone else had issues like this?

I haven't had any issues with my R2 (as yet...) but I was going to post in the SSC 3PO thread that my 3PO's touch on/off area (back of head) doesn't seem to work any more. And even though the batteries were pretty new, I tried to get the head off to try fresh batteries... but can't seem to get the head off now to get at the battery area, no matter how hard I pull.:(

I'm thinking about maybe painting the eyes (or inserting a high res color print of 3PO's eyes behind the laser-cut brass eye covers) so the eyes will look lit up without the need for lights. The issue is that unlike R2, the SSC 3PO doesn't look great without the lights on - he looks dead - whereas the Tama still looks like 3PO even without the lights on.

It's interesting that when I first got the SSC 3PO and R2 it did occur to me that even though the touch feature was brilliant (way better than the Tama switch-inside-head method) on both, I wondered how durable it would be in the longer haul.
 
I haven't turned the lights on in my R2 or C3PO in ages. I just gave them a try and thankfully they both still work.
 
I went to turn the lights on today to compare them to HT's in that vid, and they got stuck. They wouldn't shut off when I touched the panel. so I popped the head and turned off the switch. Turned it back on and they go on with the touch panel but won't turn off. Only turn off with the inner stitch. And only the full function works, not the partial function.

Anyone else had issues like this?

Try replacing the batteries. I think I remember people having all sorts of wacky problems with the lights that didn't seem low-battery-related. But it seemed to work.
 
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