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Credit where its due buddy, this is a stunning build mate. :thud:

I honestly don't know of many true modellers who could produce something so accurate and detailed as this apart from you, me & Pete (obviously :wink1:) and possibly Maxx-replicas.

I have no doubt it's on everyone's lips, but are you making just the one or you doing a run?


Jas
 
That is truly astonishing work!!!!!!!

The details, those seats... just amazing.
 
Quick update on the YT-1300:

Here are some more of the 3d renderings of the cockpit greeblies I made for the 1/6 YT 1300 cockpit. I still have to print them with the Any Cubic Photon resin printer. Its a start and many more to follow:

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Here's a print of this one;

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

I know. There are so many more left to make..

Here is what the frame looks like so far:

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

Untitled by Izzy Mel, on Flickr
 
It measures about 4ft in length 18.25 inch Diameter. and so the framework continues..........

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr

YT 1300 framework by Izzy Mel, on Flickr
 
Quick update on the YT-1300:

Here are some more of the 3d renderings of the cockpit greeblies I made for the 1/6 YT 1300 cockpit. I still have to print them with the Any Cubic Photon resin printer. Its a start and many more to follow:

Absolutely stunning IzzyMel!!

Besides that, I am considering purchasing a 3D printer, partiallly because of threads like this one or yours! It is quite an investment, and right now I can't think about any life-and-death problems I would be able to solve with this particular piece of machinery, but I think that once I own it, applications will all of a sudden start to pop up all over the place (and yeah, I have a little money burning in my pocket!!).

Could you please tell us a bit more about your 3D printer?

Any reasons (besides lower price) that made you choose that brand instead of others like e.g. formlabs.com?

Don't you find the Photon's inferior printing volume too limiting?

Just how expensive is this whole 3D-printing issue as regards resin liquid?

I understand there is a pre-print processing that has to be done on the 3D model via some proprietary SW so that printing succeeds. Is it very constraining? Does it make it feasible to print several pieces in one run (distributed across the printing volume) and thus optimize energy/time/resin consumption?

There is also a manual, post-print processing, which entails removing supports, sanding down imperfections, etc? Is it very difficult skill-wise and time consuming?

I understand there is some degree of continuous maintenance to 3D printing, like for instance resin filtering among others. Is it very time consuming?

Finally: just how smooth is the final result? Considering the high 3D resolution, are perfectly smooth, like-molded surfaces even possible?


Thanks a lot for your insight IzzyMel! I hope one day I will be able to imitate your 3D feats!
m.
 
Absolutely stunning IzzyMel!!

Besides that, I am considering purchasing a 3D printer, partiallly because of threads like this one or yours! It is quite an investment, and right now I can't think about any life-and-death problems I would be able to solve with this particular piece of machinery, but I think that once I own it, applications will all of a sudden start to pop up all over the place (and yeah, I have a little money burning in my pocket!!).

Could you please tell us a bit more about your 3D printer?

Any reasons (besides lower price) that made you choose that brand instead of others like e.g. formlabs.com?

Don't you find the Photon's inferior printing volume too limiting?

Just how expensive is this whole 3D-printing issue as regards resin liquid?

I understand there is a pre-print processing that has to be done on the 3D model via some proprietary SW so that printing succeeds. Is it very constraining? Does it make it feasible to print several pieces in one run (distributed across the printing volume) and thus optimize energy/time/resin consumption?

There is also a manual, post-print processing, which entails removing supports, sanding down imperfections, etc? Is it very difficult skill-wise and time consuming?

I understand there is some degree of continuous maintenance to 3D printing, like for instance resin filtering among others. Is it very time consuming?

Finally: just how smooth is the final result? Considering the high 3D resolution, are perfectly smooth, like-molded surfaces even possible?


Thanks a lot for your insight IzzyMel! I hope one day I will be able to imitate your 3D feats!
m.

Thanks,

I have several 3d printers. My work horse is the Raise3D N2. But for small highly detailed pieces I use the Any Cubic Photon. I chose it because of price and I wanted to start with something small before i spent crazy money for a resin printer. One of my good friends recommended the printer.

Maintenance for the printer consists of swapping out the FEP film on the resin VAT, cleaning out the resin VAT, and leveling the bed. The prints have been very smooth. Removing the supports is the pain part. Doing it before you run it through the curing lamp seems to be easier than post curing. I always wear gloves and a mask when I’m working with the stuff in a ventilated area.

Resin is more expensive than FDM filament but I have found that you can find resin from$25 to $80 depending on the size of the bottle. Also found that for me, the translucent resins have a higher success rate of being able to print objects. I use the fdm printers for a test print for scale and then I will use the resin printer for my final print. I try to print as many objects as I can.

Hope this helps. Let me know if there is anything else

Izzy
 
Wow! Izzy, that was some Getting Started. Thank you man!

Let's see:

0) Well that's some impressive, expensive FDM printer right there... What made you decide to go for the Raise3D? There are so many FDM printers out there, it is difficult to be sure you are not missing any important one....

1) How smooth are prints using your Raise3D? 10 microns z-res does sound sweet indeed!
I don't think FDM is never going to be anywhere near as smooth as SLA is, but for many instances, its roughness might do the job (normally not for Star Wars modelling, though). So, what are your usual applications for pieces printed with that not-so-perfect finish, besides cheaper prototyping?

2) "$25 to $80"... per what? Per liter/gallon of resin? How much can be printed with that? How cheaper is FDM filament in comparison?

3) The FEP film deteriorates with each print? Then, is it another supply material, like filament or resin, that needs constant renewal?

4) Considering the nature of the printing process (be it SLA or FDM), the existence of moving parts would make necessary for some sort of calibration to be part of routine maintenance. Maybe even tightening the nuts and screws from time to time(!). This would be only necessary along the Z axes for SLA (which I guess gets covered by that "bed levelling" you mentioned, right?), but in all 3 dimensions for FDM. That could be some chore... does your Raise3D need a lot of care in that respect? How often does the bed on your Photon need levelling?

5) Does "cleaning out the resin vat" include filtering any unused resin?

6) What does it actually mean, that a certain resin causes a print to fail? Why would it cause the failure? Does the preprocessing software not guarantee success with whatever resin you use? Are resins mechanically so different?

7) You are scaring me now: are the printed units so toxic before curing them? How do you go about waste disposal, if those materials are so toxic?? I feel that we collectors are destroying the planet with so much plastic consumption...



Thanks again for your insight buddy!
m.


Thanks,

I have several 3d printers. My work horse is the Raise3D N2. But for small highly detailed pieces I use the Any Cubic Photon. I chose it because of price and I wanted to start with something small before i spent crazy money for a resin printer. One of my good friends recommended the printer.

Maintenance for the printer consists of swapping out the FEP film on the resin VAT, cleaning out the resin VAT, and leveling the bed. The prints have been very smooth. Removing the supports is the pain part. Doing it before you run it through the curing lamp seems to be easier than post curing. I always wear gloves and a mask when I’m working with the stuff in a ventilated area.

Resin is more expensive than FDM filament but I have found that you can find resin from$25 to $80 depending on the size of the bottle. Also found that for me, the translucent resins have a higher success rate of being able to print objects. I use the fdm printers for a test print for scale and then I will use the resin printer for my final print. I try to print as many objects as I can.

Hope this helps. Let me know if there is anything else

Izzy
 
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