D.R.37
Super Freak
Niiice Looking forward to seeing the your next and final stages.
Looks great Ahab. What did you do to the dome to make it look more metallic? Some light sandpaper or a repaint and sandpaper?
It's amazing how much people are doing to this fig vs. the Tama 3PO though. We've now seen someone completely cover the rivets and redo the dome, and someone else bought the HT fig to use dome on this figure (which must have been $$$.)
Thanks.
I masked the lenses and dull coated the dome. I experimented with a product I've used twice before (on the probe and K2), AK Interactive True Metal wax based aluminum pigment...right out of the tube. I used my old Taito R2 as a test platform for different techniques. None of the original dome color(metal part)remains. Started with brushing then buff, then dragging a dry stiff brush following the circumference, adding additional pigment in a more random and mottled applications, sanding with 1500 to 2400 grit, buff(parts, but not all)...etc until I was happy with the look. Once I've completed the blue areas, the whole thing will get a unifying layer of grime, dirt, dust etc. Its a fun and adaptive process if you have the wherewithal.
As for modded Tami R2's, if haven't seen any yet. I'd love to see what people are doing. I read another member did a cool lighting mod, but would be cool to see what others have done.
Customizing/modifying in general... I look at the figure the way some approach Vader, troopers and Fett (there use to be a ton of folks Frankenstiening Fetts..). Striving to make these concoctions live up to an individuals expectations is just part of this whole collecting thing, and for some, it's actually fun!. As for how a Tami/Ht hybrid might fit next to a stock Tami 3po, I'm not sure. I'd image it would look pretty good. I did recall seeing a TN 3PO next to a HT R2 and it looked great.
Cheers
That's really quite brilliant work, Ahab. Well done. I'm really looking forward to the finished product. It's a fantastic piece with your modifications.
Did you also cover the finger nail slot?
Thanks, Man. Yes, I covered the nail slots as well. The center door slot is a little hard to see due to the doors being open (I'm letting everything cure a good two days before I close the doors. The other two doors you'll notice the slots are filled and primed. I did test on the functioning of the doors before priming and they look great and function well. I have an update in the queue on body shopping the slots and rivets.
Cheers,
Ahab
Followed your lead on the dome lights. Before reading your tutorial, i had put frosted theatrical gels (from manufacturer samples) on the inside of the dome openings for the round lights with excellent results. After reading your post, I went back in and added the same type frosted filter around the bulbs themselves also with even better results. Then i decided to experiment with the rear round light. Behind the frosted gel on the dome, I placed an orange gel (which cannot be seen when turned off). The result is when the light is activated, it's flashing sequence goes from pale blue, to violet to yellow. Not 100% movie accurate, but nice variety (and more than I was expecting).
Nice! I'm thinking of revisiting the back light and adding a more orange/brown gel to get it a little closer.
Any pictures?
I finally saw the HT R2 in person and I gotta say that the Tamashii still looks like its higher quality. The weathering on the HT looks decent and all, but Tamashii still has the upper hand imo
Maybe video might be better?
I finally saw the HT R2 in person and I gotta say that the Tamashii still looks like its higher quality. The weathering on the HT looks decent and all, but Tamashii still has the upper hand imo
I have both, and although i tend to like the dome better on the HT. IMO there is no comparison between the two. The tamashi screams quality. Love the little doors that open, the weight the paint it is all very very well done and pair perfectly with my c3po
But the only thing “glaring” that isn’t accurate is the fingernail slots.
But the only thing “glaring” that isn’t accurate is the fingernail slots.
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