Attn: Custom Artists!! Newbs, ask Questions here!

[knucklefunger]

If it's a little loose no big deal. Just press in some 2 part epoxy putty. I prefer to do this than to make them a tight natural fit. I find it holds better.

 

[bigal326]

If it's a little loose no big deal. Just press in some 2 part epoxy putty. I prefer to do this than to make them a tight natural fit. I find it holds better.

And will you be able to turn the head?

 

[avbat]

knuckles, thanks again man. I will get on that. If you could, tell me more about the chalk pastels. Do they give the optimum look for the flesh tone or is that just a substitute for airbrushing? Is it the best way to go?
Also what about primer and sealant? what do you recommend? thanks in advance!

 

[knucklefunger]

Bigal, yeah, on say a True Type, the head will bond to the neck post, which fits on a ball joint. It will be fully articulated. I'll try to take some images

Avbat, not matter what anyone says, always scrub the sculpt with soapy water & a dental brush, then rinse. Dry with lint free clothe then leave overnight to dry.

-follow with a good primer such as Testors or Tamiya (my fav)

-Base coat a light flesh & block in the hair. This helps you get an idea when to stop adjusting the shading.
-punch in shades with the chalk pastels. Apply with a brush, then feather the edges with a clean brush. Clear coat with Testors Dullcoat. If you must, use a blow dryer to accelerate the drying.
-begin going 1 shade darker with the pastels, repeat clear until desired depth is achieved

If there are enough people that really want help with this, I'll document a piece I'm working on for a client. It will show all the stages from cleaning & prep to painting & chalk work as well as a few little things I've stumbled on

 

[avbat]

so is it best to invest in a descent set of paints (wide variety of colors), or would it be better then to invest in good pastels, as it seems a great amount of shading can just be done with pastels alone then?

 

[bigal326]

Thanks knucklefunger!

 

[knucklefunger]

Avbat
A few good acrylics are fine. Flesh, or make your own from Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna & Ti White. Black, & a few other col. you need for say different hair col. or eye col.

You can get sets of chalk pastels for under 20.00 US. I usually use several shades of brown (also, don't be afraid to mix the powders as you would with paints to get the col you want) Use some gray for stubble, (black is to dark & sometimes darkens following a clear coat) Pinks & some brownish reddish tones for cheeks,ears, nose chin, adam's apple. A blue for veins & purple/lavender on upper lids (sometimes)

The trick with pastels is to make the piece NOT look like it's painted. There is a tendency to over do it. Don't. That's why I suggest blocking in the hair. It gives you an idea with something for contrast as to when enough is enough. Better to under paint than over paint.

Brushes should be your main concern. Don't go to inexpensive. That is unless you are using an airbrush for the base tones (which I strongly recommend) Testors/Aztek make one that is beautiful to work with.

As far as brushes for the pastels, you don't need pricey ones. Just descent quality. You are working with powder not paint, so brush lines are not an issue. Think womans make up (ok, & some guys, I got friends that do it & you can learn a lot)

One of the best things for reference is your own face. Look in a mirror not at the face, but break it down into a collection of colors. You'll see what I mean.

 

[avbat]

hey knuckle i really appreciate your responses, they have really been helpful. I am just concerned with getting all the info I can before I start since this is something I have never done before. Being a painter I know exactly what you mean about breaking it down into a set of colors and whatnot.
One of my last questions ... for now: so mentioned that once i have done some work with the pastels i need to clear coat the thing, do a bit more then, clear coat again. Does Tamiya sell the needed clear coat sealant? and should i get mate finish or does semigloss bring out more of a flesh look?

 

[knucklefunger]

I honestly have no idea it Tamiya make a dull clear coat. Testors does, # 1260 (I think). It's a matter of personal choice as far as the semigloss goes. I don't like it because it makes the sculpt look greasy. Once you gloss the eyes (Tamiya clear gloss), the flat finish makes the eyes pop

 

[bigal326]

If there are enough people that really want help with this, I'll document a piece I'm working on for a client. It will show all the stages from cleaning & prep to painting & chalk work as well as a few little things I've stumbled on

I'd be interested in that. I want to learn how to paint, but I can't seem to find any good tutorials on line.

 

[knucklefunger]

ok
I'm gonna give it a go. I'll try to be as specific as possible with all stages

 

[bigal326]

ok
I'm gonna give it a go. I'll try to be as specific as possible with all stages

Thank you so much!

 

[knucklefunger]

Hey, no problem. I don't mind sharing. A lot of people here have really helped me out, so if I can help others fine. I dont intend to demystify the process but it really is easy & fun. I love watching a piece come alive.

 

[avbat]

Ok knuckle, I went out today to get some paints, and no place by where I live has Testors or tamiya paints! Is using some cheap acrylic paint like apple barrel alright? what are the draw backs? what should i do?
thanks man!

 

[knucklefunger]

Alright, I can not lie. I've always used an airbrush, & get my stuff rom an art supply place locally. I've never tried Apple Barrel. it's usually Liquitex or Freak Flex. Are you planning on brushing it on? You will need to thin the paint down with water/alcohol combination. Not sure of the mix %, I don't use brushes that much other than for pastels. You'll need to apply several coats. Be warned: thinning paints will also affect it's color tone.

Try Monsters In Motion, Freak Flex pale, rose & tan flesh. Can buy online & their service is amazing. It's airbrush ready & also thin enough to apply with a brush. It's beautiful to work with.

Anyone have experience with Apple Barrel? Please offer Avbat some suggestions. I imagine the stuff just fine wo work with.

The dull coat is a must though. It will protect the paint as well as the work you've done.

 

[avbat]

I have a brand new air brush and was planning on using for the base coats mostly, as it sounds like most of the skin tone work can be done w/ pastels etc. Dark artist stats in his tutorial earlier in this thread that he mixes apple barrel w/ another type acrylic paint. I planed on doing the eyes and smaller details w/ a brush unless it would be better to do so w/ the air brush. And i did pick up testors all purpose dullcoat today

 

[avbat]

Ok so i found some Liquitex paint up were i live and got some. tried applying some apple barrel and some liquitex to the underside of the bust, and after drying they seem to have both adhered to the bust just the same as one another. the apple barrel is a bit thinner than the liqitex but other than that i see no difference.
A question though:
Liquitex dullcoat container says that it sometimes dulls the colors, so to avoid that, seal w/ one coat of glosscoat then multiple layers of dull coat. do you recommend this knunckle? I suppose if i went that route i would a layer of gloss coat after every powdercoat, and dullcoat at the ultimate finish?

 

[knucklefunger]

I usually just stick with what works, just use the Testors dullcoat, blast both painted sections & see what happens to the tone. Just to be sure. I've never used anything buy the Testors. It's lousy on vinyl pieces (stays tacky), At least this way you know it will retain the tone. The only thing that may be affected is the chalk pastels, some darken others lighten but usually keep the tone intact.

How's it going? That really is a beautiful piece

 

[Reinhardt]

Anyone have any tips on either making/where to buy 1:6 shirt buttons? Too often the buttons on these shirts are too big. Thanks!

 

[Anzik]

www.tinyzippers.com