Attn: Custom Artists!! Newbs, ask Questions here!

[teabelly83]

i cant find a post anywhere with answers unles i overlooked again, i searched but nothing so hope help comes!

i wnated to know if the jedi robes and clothing frm the older hasbro 12" sw figs fit the newer hot toys type bodys??

 

[Cap'n Cook]

Can anyone recommend a good, moderately priced set of paints in UK to paint 1/6 with?

Preferably an eBay link. I would like to get started, but want a good set to see what I am capable of.

Ta.

Anyone assist please?

 

[Sentry]

Hey Guys! I'm new to the forum, I am looking for someone to do a commissioned project I have contacted some members through PM but from the looks of things these guys are swamped and can't usually answer PMs.

Need:

Outlaw Josey Wales Jacket

If someone is interested PM me or post a reply here...

Thanks,
Sentry

 

[ScorpionDeadman]

Anyone assist please?

I like to use tamiya paints or citadel paints

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Any-Set-of-3...14&_trkparms=72:1688|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318

https://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.jsp?catId=cat1290211&rootCatGameStyle=

 

[Cap'n Cook]

Thanks for the help.

 

[knucklefunger]

SnakeEater, are you using an airbrush or hand painting?

-Sorry to be redundant but I always hot water & dish soap wash the sculpt to get rid of mold release, scrub with a denture brush (the smaller thin side works great for gettin in eyes, nose & ears
-wipe dry with lint free cloth, let it dry overnight
-prime with tamiya primer, awesome stuff, i usually leave it overnight again to dry, then
-liquitex paint raw sienna, burnt sienna & titanium white. Mix to desired base coat, thin down to milk like consistency then ready to airbrush.
-always clear coat after! Then proceed to punch in detail

Tamiya paint are fantastic. I've used some & love the way the paint is suspended. It works up well. It's largely preference

 

[JacktheRipper]

I've read through many threads here and other places and found many different ways (oven cleaner, brake fluid, soda, acetone, etc.), but I'm looking to strip the paint off of a head sculpt. Would someone give me a step by step way they have stripped the paint from a head sculpt. Not just what they used, but how they go about using it.
Thanks!

 

[knucklefunger]

Jack, this works beautifully. I do this all the time:

-buy some Pine Sol
-use a small container to put the head sculpt in which has a tightly closing lid so everyone doesn't get a sniff, this gan be overpowering
-fill the container so that the sculpt is fully covered, the leave overnight
-make sure you put a rubber glove on the hand that ill be holding the sculpt, then scrub with a dental brush
-repeat if necessary. Don't have to leave it overnight for a second soak, an hour or two should do
-rinse & scrub sculpt with dish soap & warm water, using the dental brush again.
-now you should be ready to prime.

Note: always use surgical gloves to handle the head, dish gloves can sometimes leave ribbed marks on the sculpt that will need to be removed. Also wear them when placing the head on a post to paint, don't want to get oil from your hands on the sculpt. Also wear them if airbrushing the head, protects your hand if you have any small cuts, as well as when clear coating, don't need a laquer on your hands

pm me if you have any questions or need any help, ok

 

[Cap'n Cook]

SnakeEater, are you using an airbrush or hand painting?

-Sorry to be redundant but I always hot water & dish soap wash the sculpt to get rid of mold release, scrub with a denture brush (the smaller thin side works great for gettin in eyes, nose & ears
-wipe dry with lint free cloth, let it dry overnight
-prime with tamiya primer, awesome stuff, i usually leave it overnight again to dry, then
-liquitex paint raw sienna, burnt sienna & titanium white. Mix to desired base coat, thin down to milk like consistency then ready to airbrush.
-always clear coat after! Then proceed to punch in detail

Tamiya paint are fantastic. I've used some & love the way the paint is suspended. It works up well. It's largely preference

Hand painting. Thanks for the tips. I will purchase some Tamiya methinks. Does it have to be acrylic? As there is a shop that sells Tamiya/Citadels over here, so I could buy locally?

Ta.

 

[knucklefunger]

Snake
I'm a Canuck so not sure what is readily avail there. I always use acrylics, I find them easier to work with & cover up mistakes if made. Some like oils, I don't. Acrylics also allow me to get the work done up quickly

 

[JacktheRipper]

The pine sol won't damage the plastic?

 

[Kabukiman]

In my experience, I've never found it necessary to strip paint from a head. I've always either painted over the existing paint, or made a cast.

 

[knucklefunger]

Kabuki, the only ones I've done that way were the Ichi & Kakihara. Does work well if you like the base skin tones

Jack, never harmed a sculpt whether its plastic,vinyl or resin. It just really stinks

 

[JacktheRipper]

knuckle, you sound like you know what you are talking about but my chicken-ass is going to try it on a stock head first.

 

[gdb]

Jack, this works beautifully. I do this all the time:

-buy some Pine Sol
-use a small container to put the head sculpt in which has a tightly closing lid so everyone doesn't get a sniff, this gan be overpowering
-fill the container so that the sculpt is fully covered, the leave overnight
-make sure you put a rubber glove on the hand that ill be holding the sculpt, then scrub with a dental brush
-repeat if necessary. Don't have to leave it overnight for a second soak, an hour or two should do
-rinse & scrub sculpt with dish soap & warm water, using the dental brush again.
-now you should be ready to prime.

Note: always use surgical gloves to handle the head, dish gloves can sometimes leave ribbed marks on the sculpt that will need to be removed. Also wear them when placing the head on a post to paint, don't want to get oil from your hands on the sculpt. Also wear them if airbrushing the head, protects your hand if you have any small cuts, as well as when clear coating, don't need a laquer on your hands

pm me if you have any questions or need any help, ok

Thanks for posting this! I'm new to painting the 1:6 guys and I feel like I'm working without a net not being able to press the restart button and start over on a sculpt sometimes.

 

[knucklefunger]

Jack,gbd
I never really had anybody's help , mostly trial & error. I have ruined a few sculpts over the years. Jack, trying a disposable head is great. At least you can see if it works for you without the risk or ruining a perfectly good sculpt.

I still do & re-do pieces I'm not happy with. A good example is the Winchesters. Sam 3X & Dean 2X. Felt the skin tones needed improving. Not that I have anything against buying 1/6 complete figs or using other talented people services, I just like doing this stuff. I enjoy watching a piece come alive. Hell, I doing Dexter twice.

Seriously, if anyone has any questions just feel free to pm me, I'll try to respond quickly, sometimes its hard though, I own my own business, weight train & paint

 

[Cap'n Cook]

Snake
I'm a Canuck so not sure what is readily avail there. I always use acrylics, I find them easier to work with & cover up mistakes if made. Some like oils, I don't. Acrylics also allow me to get the work done up quickly

Thanks again.

 

[knucklefunger]

No problem. Are you going to also shad with chalk pastels?

 

[dhampir46]

Sorry to derail here, but this seems to be the place for newbs to ask,so,

how would I go about commisioning a custom 1/6 guyver?

 

[knucklefunger]

dhampir46
Save some cash, do this
Buy a 1/6 vinyl figure. Cut it up, install some joints & there you go
I LOVE the Guyver - live action and anime