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Finally finished my Pvt Drake custom. Repainted the head, added the cap graffiti, graffiti to the M56 Smart Gun sight, glove and the Smart Gun itself. Thought the pics may be useful to someone that wants to customize their own...I couldn't find many Drake pics on this thread.
Going on Evilbay tomorrow. :cool:

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Very nice work! I customized my Drake and while back. But I still have to go in and add the words on his hat and smartgun. You can see him in my signature image below. :D
 
Finally finished my Pvt Drake custom. Repainted the head, added the cap graffiti, graffiti to the M56 Smart Gun sight, glove and the Smart Gun itself. Thought the pics may be useful to someone that wants to customize their own...I couldn't find many Drake pics on this thread.
Going on Evilbay tomorrow. :cool:

Nice job! Could you tell me what color tone and brand of paint you used for Drakes face and hair? I've been putting off my custom Drake to long and need to paint him.
 
detailed thread on detailing different HT marines

Please could you do seperate threads on Drake, Ripley etc and how to scratch build the different more harder to get hold of Marines(hicks) etc.
Just one thread on customising Ripley, making her taller more accurate paint detail etc. That sort of thing on all the Alien characters. Cheers Steve:banana
 
Re: detailed thread on detailing different HT marines

Use the search, I think there is already a HT Alien Marine thread(s).
 
Re: detailed thread on detailing different HT marines

Perhaps if you re-stated your request in more detail, you could get more detailed detailing help.
 
Re: detailed thread on detailing different HT marines

Please could you do seperate threads on Drake, Ripley etc and how to scratch build the different more harder to get hold of Marines(hicks) etc.
Just one thread on customising Ripley, making her taller more accurate paint detail etc. That sort of thing on all the Alien characters. Cheers Steve:banana

1 in 3 people are called steve :lecture
 
Re: detailed thread on detailing different HT marines

Since there's already an extensive thread on this matter, I'm merging this thread in there, maybe someone can save you sifting through the whole thread and directly answer any questions you have, but with all the effort already done, there's no need for individual threads.
 
Nice job! Could you tell me what color tone and brand of paint you used for Drakes face and hair? I've been putting off my custom Drake to long and need to paint him.

Thanks JediMike (nice work!) and IronMan.

DutchAzlon;
There's all sorts of ways to paint out the headsculpts, and eventually you'll find a painting technique and paint setup that'll work for you. I don't regard my work to be as good as the likes of Josh or Les by a long shot, but this is what I did to paint the Drake headsculpt.

For my paints I have two pots of 'Model Master Acryl' - Skin Tone Warm Tint and Burnt Sienna; the rest of my skin-tone paints are the Delta Ceramcoat.
The Delta Ceramcoat colors I have are:- Golden Brown, Fleshtone, Toffee Brown, Terracotta; plus I have Burnt Sienna, Dark Burnt Umber and Barn Red. So I have a fair amount of skin tones to mix up and play about with.

This is actually the second time I repainted Drake. The first time I did it, I used only Model Master Acryl paints. Some people really like them; personally I struggle with them. They are gooey, and what I found is is that with Drakes cap fitting on quite tight to the headsculpt, the paint never hardened that well and when I put the cap on the paint 'moved' even though it was dry to the touch, and the paintjob was ruined.

So, I stripped all the paint off, and did it again and the results are what you see above, using the paints above. Heck of alot better, and the paint doesn't move at all.

First I sprayed the headsculpt with an Acrylic-based gray primer. The Drake headsculpt plastic it's made from seems more 'rubbery' than the others I've done before i.e. Hicks. So I waited a few days until it was completely dry to the touch.

Then, I mixed the Model Master Acryl Burnt Sienna and Skin Tone Warm Tint colors together, then mixed that with a small amount of the Delta Ceramcoat 'fleshtone' color. This helps take the 'gooeyness' out of the Model Master paints. Then the Drake headsculpt skin was pinted entirely in that as a basecoat.

Then I gradually add more and more Model Master Warm Tint with the Caramcoat colors - lightening it, drybrushing and blending the paint on the headsculpt, then mixing the colors again (lightening the shade) then applying it, then mixing it again and lightening it more, and so on. Raised areas, such as the brow, cheekbones, nose are lighter still.

Then I used delta fleshtone barn red for the eyes, then when that's dry use fleshtone with a hint of white for the eyeballs, leaving a 'border' of barn red around the outside. It doesn't want to look bright white as that looks weird. Then I paint in the iris with Dark Burnt Umber, followed by dark blue and light blue for the center matching stills from the movie as best I could.

Lips got painted in three stages; Dark burnt umber, then drybrushed with barn red then a barn red / fleshtone bend for the outer edges of the lips.

For the five o'clock shadow, I used to use paint. Now I use a dark green drawing pastel. I use it to draw on some paper, then using a brush, dip the brush in the scribble I've done then apply it to the jawline, chin and upper lip. It looks green at first, but as it gets blended in, it looks the perfect 'gray' color and isn't too harsh.

The hair again got painted in Ceramcoat. A dark burnt umber base then drybrushing it lighter and lighter in stages.

Finally I used several coats of flat Testors Dullcote Laquer to seal the whole thing and protect it from taking the cap on and off.

That was it! Sometimes I use Dark Burnt Umber for eyelashes and the like. Never use black.

Hope that helps - sorry there's no pics, but I've already painted the thing. I'm almost done with a Hicks custom and I did some additional coloring to the armor so maybe I'll post pics of that.
Best of luck!
 
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Thank you for the paint. Thats a very detailed painting tip too I really appreciate that.


PS
Any pics and tips for Hicks would be great for us who want to repaint his headsculpt.
 
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Your welcome.
I'm customizing Apone at the weekend so expect a Colonial Marine armor tutorial with pics to be on this thread by this time next week. :)
 
Any idea on how i can get custom armour for my new Hicks figure guys ? Cheers Steve UK.

I don't know, mate. The only custom armour I've seen that is not Hot Toys was the EVA Rifleman kit by EVA Models with was in 1:6 and released before Hot Toys came out with their figures. Sadly the guy that ran it passed away. When HT came out with theirs people started breaking down the kits and selling parts, but armour is seen few and far between nowadays.
 
US COLONIAL MARINE ARMOUR WEATHERING - PART 1 (PAINTWORK)

Okay, for this tutorial, I'm going to paint up and weather a set of Sargeant Apone armour from Hot Toys. I've had this figure for a few years; three years ago I repainted the hands and headsculpt (infact, this was my first headsculpt repaint, ever) and the sculpt is actually really good. I like it, anyways; I'll cover that another time.

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Here we have an original Apone figure to the left; the only amendments thus far have been the headsculpt repaint, and I've taken off the 'tin opener' on the abdomen plate (the only character that wore this was Hudson, though this appeared on the Hicks figure as well as Apone).
On the right is what we are going to turn the armour into. I started this Hicks a little while ago; not quite done, still got some dings and scratches to do, plus add other accessories such as the correct knife and lighter case, but I've already painted up an unpainted Figuremaster Les 'Spikey Haired Hicks' headsculpt.

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A rear shot of the armour and BDU's. I also dirtied down the BDU's on the Hicks figure.

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And another shot without the Rifles and Flamethrowers in the way.

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Close-up of the helmets. Apone on the left, Hicks on the right (a before and after, if you will). The helmets are terrific and really well detailed, but the colors are not quite right. So in Part 1, we'll sort out the paintwork, and in Part 2 tomorrow, the weathering.

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Another comparison shot. :)

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...and another from a different angle.

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First step is to take off all the armour including the leg armour/greaves. Sometimes you'll find a strap has come unglued but it can usually be glued back into place no problem. As you can see here, there is a clasp attached on the chestplate - again only Hicks wore this in the movie, so it can come off. Use a sharp knife to gently take it off, and it'll leave a couple of holes which can be filled with putty.

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Again taking off the 'tin-opener' from the abdomen cover leaves a couple of holes which will need filling.

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Leg greaves as they are, upainted...

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...and the chest armour again, with model filler in the two holes. I found that sanding down the holes with wet & dry does not seem to affect the camoflauge too much.

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Okay, at this point, do a bit of research. Watch the movie, pause it to get an idea of the armour you are painting (whatever character you are doing) also look at photos on the extras dvds. Look for any graffiti the character may wear on their armour, and any errors (for example, the Hot Toys Hudson armour has 'Louis' written on the front, it should read 'Louise').
This site The Aliens Legacy ? View forum - Armor, Costume and Paint Archives is also great if you want to match colors.
Looking at these you'll begin to appreciate that on the helmets, the sandy color and red/brown color and black is missing from the camo pattern. Also, the armour has the sandy color and black missing, so that's what we'll add next.

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You can go as accurate as you want with these figures. I personally do not pause the movie and religiously match the camo pattern and all the different shapes and where it goes; but I do want the colors right at least as best I can. So I started on the torso armour first, mixing up an acylic red/brown color and roughly going over the color already there. Then I added the sandy color; then the black here and there, then white. Remember that each pattern will not dry totally opaque at first, because we are painting straight onto plastic, without the primer added.

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On the helmet, you'll have to add more red/brown, as this color is missing altogether from the camo pattern already on there.

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Abdomen cover...

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...and leg greaves. We'll have more work to do tomorrow on the greaves to make them more accurate.

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At the moment, the colors look bright and garish. But after the airbrushed weathering which we'll do tomorrow, it'll tone down the colors and get it looking more like the Hicks armour I showed you earlier. 'Til next time...
 
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