Fixing the KANE and DALLAS low head problem in 5 minutes !

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Next, go to the back of the helmet, and inside the larger of the two hoses you will find a very stiff metal wire, which serves absolutle NO useful perpose- Pull back the rubber hose a little to expose the wire, and remove it with needle-nose pliers. It is not attached in any way- it will pull right out. The hose will now be flexible, and allow the helmet to rest downward.
Here is an important update to my mod instructions. I forgot to mention the stiff metal wire in the air hose. If you leave it in place, the entire procedure will not work- it must be removed, but it's very easy to do.
 
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Here is an important update to my mod instructions. I forgot to mention the stiff metal wire in the air hose. If you leave it in place, the entire procedure will not work- it must be removed, but it's very easy to do.

Do you have any fears about the rubber used for the suit and how long do you think it will last?

BB
 
In the Sideshow promotional video about these two figures, it was said that the space suits were made of PVC, and it's been said elsewhere. I don't think that's true- I have been working with silicone rubber since 1993, and I'm 99.99999% certain the space suits are made of silicone. I hope I'm right, because silicone will never EVER degrade or decay. It will literally become a part of the Earth's crust, the stuff is so permanant. It can be cut though, so be careful about rips and tears- they can easily propigate into larger rips. Other than that, it's extremely tough stuff.
 
I don't mean to rain on your parade, because your thought to fix the neck issue was valid. However, I am an accomplished sculptor and customizer- and there is a major flaw with this mod. The problem is not that the neck is too short. The problem is that the helmet and shoulder gear rides up too high on Dallas' body. That's because the materials are solid plastic instead of a soft padded cloth like they should be. Yes, you have managed to frame Dallas' head better in the helmet, but it means his neck is now streched like a Ubangi warrior from Eastern Africa. I received my Dallas a few days ago, and I've come up with what I believe to be the best fix for this problem: Don't raise the head, LOWER the costume. First, you remove the helmet and detatch the shoulder armor from the collar. Peel back the little 'mounts' that connect each shoulder guard to the circular neck collar, and remove them completely from both the collar and the shoulder guards. (Don't worry, the shoulder guards will stay in place, and will acually have a bit more mobility when posing the arms later.) Once that is done, use your trusty Dremel tool with a suitable sanding head. Sand down the thickness of the under side of the collar pad. You will see two small depressions on the under side of the collar left and right, where the shoulder guard mounts used to be- you can use these as depth guides when sanding the collar, so the depth of material you remove matches the depth of these depressions. You can easily take off about 1/8th inch from the under side of the collar pad. Be careful at the egdes; after you've sanded some thickness off of it, you'll need to sand around the under-outside edge of the collar pad where it is visible to the eye, so the bottom of it is slightly rounded and not a sharp edge- you should do this manually with sand paper. Next, go to the back of the helmet, and inside the larger of the two hoses you will find a very stiff metal wire, which serves absolutle NO useful perpose- Pull back the rubber hose a little to expose the wire, and remove it with needle-nose pliers. It is not attached in any way- it will pull right out. The hose will now be flexible, and allow the helmet to rest downward. This whole opperation will create more room below the helmet, and thus the collar and helmet will sit lower and frame the figure's head higher. This proceedure has an added bonus effect: If you study photos of the space suits in the film, you will see that the top of the shoulder armor sits very close to the rim of the helmet. The white collar pad is soft, so the shoulder armor just pushes in close. But, because the HT plastic collar pad is rigid and it's connected to the edge of the shoulder guards with the mounts, this holds the shoulder armor out and makes Dallas / Kane look too broad-shouldered. SO: After you have removed the connectors and sanded down the under side of the collar pad, the collar pad will sit a bit lower on the shoulders, and allow the top of the shoulder guards to sit just above the edge of the pad- and come in closer towards the helmet. This will fix the 'broad shoulder' problem AND the high-helmet issue at the same time, and give a more realistic and movie-accurate 'slouch' to the character. AND- if this doesn't lower the helmet enough, there's one more step that can help do that: You can super-glue the neck area of the rubber space suit directly onto the neck area of the body, so the space suit itself doesn't rise up too much above the shoulders. That might lower the helmet another 1/8th inch or so.. Lemme hear that feedback!

Don't take this the wrong way, but you should really think about adding some paragraph breaks. This is incredibly difficult to read.

That said, I think you may have a good approach for people who aren't afraid to get their hands dirty. However, I don't necessarily agree with the idea that he's made the neck too long. Of course it looks silly without the helmet on, but with it on it looks pretty good. It's conceivable to me that Dallas's shoulders could start where they logically should on a human figure, rather than where they actually do inside the suit.

Take a look at this picture. I found a generic human figure online and superimposed it over the modified figure without changing its proportions. Everything seems to fall where it should, as long as you assume that his shoulders start partially within the helmet area, which seems plausible to me.

dallas_proportions.jpg
 
About the head-neck-body proportions: I guess I'm just more picky about correctness in this area than many people. I've been working at this for so long, I've become very attuned to correct body and face proportions.

As I customize my Dallas & Kane, I'm making adjustments to the 'Moebius' designed space suits, and also changes which are specific to Tom Skerrit and John Hurt; for example, their posture is important to me. Also, John Hurt is about five inches shorter than Tom Skerrit, so that will be an interesting problem to fix.

Just so you don't think I'm spouting false expertise, here's a link to a website for custom modelers to display their work. Near the bottom left, click on the word 'Creators' and then click on the name 'anthrapoid' in the 'A' list. You'll see some of my custom work, including 'ZED' (Sean Connery) from the film ZARDOZ, The Mordor Troll Chieftain from the end of LOTR: Return of the King, Treebeard from LOTR: Two Towers, a nazi zombie from the film SHOCKWAVES, a 12" Bishop from ALIENS, many sratch-built Star Wars droids and more...

Here's the link: https://www.figurerealm.com/Customs.php
 
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I completely understand your fears, but they are unfounded. Once you have the collar off, it's easy to carefully sand only the under side, round the edge, and voila. For my tastes, these figures are too expensive NOT to have them look their best.

I'll be sure to look at this thread again once I get the figures. Dallas should be in early october I'd say. Maybe I'll reconsider. But I haven't had much luck with previous customising attempts - mostly on star wars figures - with my lack of patience they always end up being very rough - glue marks, scratched paint, loss of articulation etc.

On 1/6th my last serious mulling/attempt was to try to get the Christian Bale head from TDK original suit Batman on to the Saturday Toys mens suit figure using the true-type neck post. Sure it fits on - but the entire neck disappears behind the collar making his head look very squat on the shoulders - other people have done this and obviously don't think theres a problem but I do. I was looking for ways to raise the head by adding to the base of the neckpost but in order to retain articulation I would need to break the ball (in the Saturday toys body) off in order to put something under it - unfortunately (or fortunately if theres a better way I haven't thought of) no matter how hard I tried or what I tried to use I just could not break the damn thing off. The equivalent piece on one of my true-typebodies broke off accidentally - with ease - and I wasn't able to glue it back. As a result of all this I'm reluctant to try much.

Take a Hot Toys neck post and saw off the upper part.
neckpost1.jpg
neckpost2.jpg


Then Superglue the lower part on Dallas neck.
156_5620.jpg
156_5621.jpg

Actually the above is what I initially tried to do on my Bruce Wayne - for a start it was easier said than done to do the sawing on the pieces pictured. Even after I succeeded, and drained my body of fluids via my forehead and armpits, it wound up making the neck too long and the head too far above the collar - leaving me with the opposite problem to the one I was trying to fix.
 
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Another detail I forgot to mention about my technique for lowering the Dallas & Kane helmet: When you are sanding the under side of the collar, the best Dremel head to use is the 1/2 inch cylindrical sander head. This will take off nice flat even layers, and you can do it gradually and safely.
 
Don't take this the wrong way, but you should really think about adding some paragraph breaks. This is incredibly difficult to read.

I thought the same thing, I had to highlight the paragraph every few sentences so I didn't loose my spot. Gave up 2/3'rds through the paragraph.

You're right about one thing icruise- I have no idea how to make paragraphs. One would think a 43 years old man who has owned a computer for five years could manage to learn how to create paragraphs in text. I have no clue. I have tried fiddling with it, but nothing. Pathetic. Maybe you can help me with that, and I'll edit my post accordingly... (here's a good place for a paragraph now!)

It's simple. Just use the enter key every two or three sentences.
 
I'd previously posted a note about my use of Anthrapoid's method in the KANE thread. For what it's worth, here goes:

dallas_collar.jpg


I used various dremel bits, most with diamond tips rather than sandpaper. I kept looking at how it matched up with the figure, and wound up making an indentation along the entire back and two front indentations to accommodate the clasp-buckles for the chest plate. I wasn't entirely sold on scrapping the topmost straps for the shoulder guards, but Anthrapoid was right; once they were completely removed, the collar sat nestled snugly and the shoulder guards could go on top, holding it down. I also removed the wire in the air hose -- mine wasn't rusty at all.

Dallas2.jpg


Dallas3.jpg


Seems much more like the screen image now. The face is still low, but you can see more of it. From dead level, the moustache is visible, and with only a slight elevation the lower lip becomes visible, as pictured above.

Kane just arrived and I haven't opened the box yet, but I'll probably do the same operation with him.
 
Gruff- again, I'm happy you were able to make your helmet mount/pad sit lower on the shoulders, with your variation of my idea.
Just as a comparison, I wanted to show a couple pictures to illustrate how I did mine differently.
I sanded the whole underside of the pads, because it lowers the pad on the shoulders another 1/8th inch. This increase is mostly due to the left and right sides, where the snap used to connect the pad to the shoulder guards.

As you can see, the whole pad has been sanded down flush to the level where the 'snap beds' were on the left and right.

From the rear view, you can see that the pad sits flat on the back and looks natural. The front sits fine too.

Besides lowering the helmet to make the face better framed, this technique also reduces the overall thickness of the pad, making its proportions more accurate.

I also used a very sharp razor knife to slightly enlarge the two rectangular slots where the helmet snaps on. Before I did this, it was VERY difficult to snap the helmet on and off.
Making the slots a bit larger fixes this nicely, but be careful- there's not a lot of thickness between the slot and the inner rim.
 
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On my Dallas, I have more of a problem with the back of the sculpt/head hitting the back of the helmet and pushing it forward. If I could push the head back, or slide the whole helmet back on the shoulders a bit, I could have Dallas looking forward...instead of looking slightly downward.

Gruff: what is the long cut in the back for exactly?

Also, I found that if you slide the buckles (of the straps over the shoulders)closer to the chest plate and push them to the sides, that eliminates their contact with the helmet. My helmet sits lower than most due to this... but I wouldn't mind grabbing an extra 1/8th" more.

Has anyone tried to heat the plastic around the neck to see if it will mold better to the shoulder area?
 
The groove at the back was just because there's a matching ridge on the outfit. Now that I see Anthrapoid's collar pad, I may try hand-sanding mine down a bit more. It would be nice to get even more elevation. :joy

Removing the helmet and reattaching it has made my internal lights dodgy. Sometimes they work, sometimes I have to jiggle the helmet. The wiring on these must have very delicate contacts. Going to have to inspect it all, including the batteries, if I remove it again.
 
Fair play on coming up with that. However I can't see myself risking such an operation. Haven't got the figures yet but I just don't think I'm that bothered by this issue. The OP's method seems more doable for an inexperienced (and terribly impatient) customiser but I agree that to do so makes the neck unnaturally long. Then again with your method and anything that involves dremmelling - these guys are just too expensive for me to mess with.


I changed my mind. The low head issue does bother me. And I think maybe I could pull off Anthrapoid's mod - now that I have the figures I know what he's talking about.
 
Hmm. Been trying Anthrapoids method on my Kane - so far it hasn't made much of a difference to be honest. Its made it possible for the shoulder guards to be higher alright but the head is still very low inside the helmet. I think perhaps a combination of sanding down the collar and lengthening the neck might be a good option. With the shoulder guards higher the proportions might not look quite so off with the longer neck.
 
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