My Office Showroom Build (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

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Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

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This is just Awesome! I may want to do the same to my superman base.
 

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Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

CCFL Saber Update: If we've previously chatted about cathode sabers and I haven't contacted you recently with instructions for the hilts, I'll be doing so within the next week.

Likewise, if I've previously sent you information, but you haven't replied with confirmation of what you'd like, please do so within the next few days if possible.

Sent you a private messagee.

Hope someone decides to make a vader severed hand
 
Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

Hello Pixelpiper,
I sent you a PM as well, Thanks.
 
Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

I'd love this for my Mythos Maul, I may have to look at getting a 3D replica of the entire handpiece if this is possible in your opinion?

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Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

I'd love this for my Mythos Maul, I may have to look at getting a 3D replica of the entire handpiece if this is possible in your opinion?

It's possible to replicate that hand, sure. You can cast a mould in multiple pieces or model it in 3D for printing as you suggested. It should also be possible to outfit with cathode saber blades.

What's the original made from?
How long are the original blades?
How do the blades currently attach to the hilt?
If there are holes in the hilt for the blade, what's the diameter of those holes? Probably easier to measure the diameter of the blade portion that goes into the holes.
 
Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

It's possible to replicate that hand, sure. You can cast a mould in multiple pieces or model it in 3D for printing as you suggested. It should also be possible to outfit with cathode saber blades.

What's the original made from?
How long are the original blades?
How do the blades currently attach to the hilt?
If there are holes in the hilt for the blade, what's the diameter of those holes? Probably easier to measure the diameter of the blade portion that goes into the holes.

The statue itself is polystone and from what I can tell this is what the hand and hilt is made from too.
From tip to tip it's about 21.5" including hilt. One blade including the metal pin is about 9"which is about 8.5" when inserted into the hilt.
The hole on the end of the hilt would be about 0.5" deep and about 5-6mm across.

Hope that helps if not I've included pics below :)

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Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

Might be tricky to find CCFL bulbs of precisely the correct length, but it might be possible to find something close, even if it's white, it can probably be painted red. I'm doing some tests with white CCFL right now.

On a related note, I'm sending out instructions in the next few days for sending hilts in along with invoices. I'm pre-producing all the parts I can right now and as many sabers as I have spare hilts for (7 Vader, 4 Luke, 4 Malgus, a few full sets of Grievous, Maul, some Obiwan and a few others). Still looking for additional extra hilts for sale if anyone can point me to them, especially some Hot Toys Bespin Luke.
 
Cold Cathode Fluorescent (CCFL) Lightsabers - 1/6 Vader, Luke and more - Worldwide sh

The official sales thread is here: https://www.sideshowcollectors.com/...rs-1-6-Vader-Luke-and-more-Worldwide-Shipping

First: Worldwide shipping for a flat fee.

Battzero Dual Mini Fluorescent Lightsaber Kit


Sabers come standard with 30" of wire - custom lengths available. Blades are pre-colored as above, so they look great on or off. Vader, Luke and Malgus use the thickest CCFL tubes possible, while Grievous and others (photos soon) include thinner blades for a great scale appearance. Working on Yoda prototypes right now.

These are the various modular parts of all the kits:

48" Extension (additional lengths available)


Black CCFL Inverter (converts the 12v supply power to 500v+ to ignite the cold cathode tubes)


12v Power Supply, available for all regions (Type A (US) shown)


Power Adapter Extension (connects standard power supply tip to Battzero quick connector system)


Optional 24" Toggle Switch extension (also available in solid state and with remote control - photos soon)
 
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Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

Gonna be setting up my new place soon, definetly using some of your ideas!
Might be interested in saber kits too!
 
Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

If you want to light anything, I'll also have the best LED lights in the business, especially if you're using any cabinets from IKEA.
 
Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

Yea I'll be in for something like that too, Dioders just don't do it for me.
Were the Akurum cabinets at all difficult to cut down?
 
Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

As everything from IKEA is flat packed, it's pretty easy to do all the cutting/mod work before the first assembly. I cut them down with a circular saw by clamping a guide to each side. I then cut the notch in the bottom for the recessed toe kick. You'll have to create new holes for the stand-offs that hold everything together.
 
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Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

Excellent, thanks for the info. My girl said I was looking at the Akurum cabinets when we were there last, didn't even realize it. I think I'm gonna go with the gray, I'm not sure which door it was but it was gray and it looked great.

PS- I'm in for a Luke and Vader saber. Most likely Malgus and Yoda eventually as well.

Edit-I think it was the Rubrik Applad door.
I was thinking of indents in the top so the feet of the detolf will sit in to keep it from sliding on the top of the cabinet. Do you think that's something to worry about? Looking at the pic of the cabinet on ikea I'm assuming you just took 2 inches off the bottom and moved the bottom of the cabinet up approx 2 inches?

I originally wanted to use the 2 drawer Malm dresser but its about 3 cm narrower than the detolf. What are your thoughts on that?
 
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Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

Were you by chance looking at the high gloss grey doors? Very nice - very pricy, but very nice. I have a set of 4 high gloss white on a custom cabinet I made for my living room that "floats" under my TV. It was $66 per door at the time. Ouch.
 
Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

Yea that's them! I wanted to match them to the finish of the Malm dresser should I decide to use it.

I actually edited my post after you replied and didn't realize it, let me know your thoughts on the Malm 2 drawer I posted about above.
 
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Re: My office showroom. (Display, Lighting, Mod Tips & Service)

I was thinking of indents in the top so the feet of the detolf will sit in to keep it from sliding on the top of the cabinet. Do you think that's something to worry about?

Remove the feet from the Detolf and sit it flat on the cabinet underneath, then put some screws through the bottom of the inside of the base cabinet up into the base of the Detolf to hold them securely together. When it's all assembled it should look like one purpose-built cabinet, not like one sitting on top of another. No one would look at my 3 Detolfs and guess they didn't come that way from the store.

Then secure the base cabinet to the wall behind it and secure the top of the Detolf to the wall as well. This is especially important if the cabinet is in an area of traffic. I've put my shoulder pretty hard into one of my cabinets multiple times already by accident.

Looking at the pic of the cabinet on ikea I'm assuming you just took 2 inches off the bottom and moved the bottom of the cabinet up approx 2 inches?

Approximately 3 inches. It's a 15x30" cabinet and I cut it down to 27". The door is 15x24".

I originally wanted to use the 2 drawer Malm dresser but its about 3 cm narrower than the detolf. What are your thoughts on that?

The Akurum is also narrower than the Detolf base by much more than 3cm - once you surface the sides however, you can get it so it's only about 1/4" narrower, which leaves a very nice/attractive 1/8" overhang of the Detolf base over the cabinet on the sides and front. The side panels hide the fact that the base cabinet is not as deep as the Detolf. Even without the side panels it still looks decent, but it's hard to cover up the cut-out at the bottom (if you make one) for the toe kick area.
 
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