Premier Toys Wasteland Gladiator 1/6th figure

[kam veitch]

I decided to release the figure from its box, swap out the stock head sculpt with one of the Dark Toys heads and plop him on the stand.

What a HUGE difference. If it wasn't for that ugly exposed arm, I would have simply continued updating the rest of the figure using the stock body.

Now I'm looking forward to diving into the project.

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Much better. I would, as you say, change the body and maybe the hands and then give him some weathering

 

[FlyAndFight]

Much better. I would, as you say, change the body and maybe the hands and then give him some weathering

Those are my exact plans. I'll also be doing the following:
- Tinting the holster straps darker, closer to black.
- Following K.Bowens' instructions on adding the small leather pad under the shoulder pad.
- Replacing the boots with the Present Toys leather boots.
- Possibly tweaking and repainting the metal parts of the knee brace.
- Tweak most of the accessories for better accuracy.
- I would also like to use a custom display base to have both Max and dog together.
- Set up the pole with gas cans as a background display. (Even though it is prior to his facial injury).

 

[dantes2501]

Ridiculous.

 

[FlyAndFight]

Ridiculous.

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Agreed. The tiny size of the Premier sculpt is nuts.

Now that I have the Dark Toys sculpts, I may try my hand at retouching the paint apps on the regular sculpt first and if it looks good, then do likewise on the injured sculpt.

 

[xipotec]

Ridiculous.

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Amazing how none of these looks like Mel at all....

 

[FlyAndFight]

Amazing how none of these looks like Mel at all....

The Premier one looks like a shrunken head caricature of Mel.

The Dark Toys pair are significantly better but paint apps are sadly lacking, compared to Hot Toys, for example.

 

[Wor-Gar]

I buy the one-eyed sculpt as uncomfortable Mel.

 

[FlyAndFight]

One-eyed sculpt is the one that I'm presently using.

 

[Wor-Gar]

I think its the best of the choices readily available.

 

[FlyAndFight]

Seeing that there are currently "3" different "Road Warrior - Mad Max" figures and corresponding threads, I'm curious how we should be posting "bashes" of all three. What is the defining factor as to which thread our bashes should be posted under? Should it be the leather outfit, since most are replacing the stock bodies?

I have the Premier Toys version but am working on replacing the body plus head sculpt plus mix and matching parts from the other two figures.

I've re-read each thread in order to pick up great ideas from fellow Freaks in order to update my figure. But I can see those getting either too large or lost as posts continue to be made. Just curious as to how best to move forward. (There's also the original Mad Max thread which contains fantastic info and history.)

 

[Asta]

 

[potato]

Well I'm late to the party but here's my Wasteland Gladiator. In general the figure has been a disappointment. Beyond all the inaccuracies and the small head with doubtful likeness, my shotgun is one of those that keeps popping open on its own, one of the leg brace straps broke just by touching it, the magnet of one of the belt bags suddenly released, and if you're not careful when unzipping your jacket, the zipper can come off completely. For a moment it can seem like the figure is going to collapse in your hands, and it's exasperating. However, I think that the body swapping is the key to start working with it and try to achieve something passable.

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So some things I've done are:

• Swap the body for a JX Toys S01 which offers a good overall result, as @Asta has shown. Out of curiosity I've also tried the ZC Toys S005 body. In case someone has wondered if it could work as an alternative to the Ganghood 2.0 or the JX Toys S01, I would say no. This body is nice and also cheaper than these two, but I've discarded it because the neck is wider and, together with the tiny head, it makes a horrible "bull's neck" effect. In addition, the skin tone doesn't math the headsculpt at all. Before swapping the body I would recommend to remove the leg brace. It may sound a bit risky, but it's not difficult and, once it's done, it will allow you to work more comfortably and quickly with the pants and boots. Basically, the leg brace is attached to the top of the boot with a strip of glue. I've heated the area with a hair dryer, and then I've gently pushed up along the glued area with the tip of a cutter, until the piece separated from the boot. A little metallic paint remained on the boot when the piece came off, but this can be easily fixed by cleaning or painting over it. I've left it like this, because you don't need to glue it down to pose the figure, and the piece can be manually snapped into place and holds up pretty well. In any case, it can be re-attached with superglue or, even better, with non-definitive adhesives such as double-sided tape or gluedots.
  
  
• Dye the shotgun holster, its straps and the knife sheath with "TRG Penetrating Dye". I've applied several layers until I get an acceptable result, but now the color is darker than the other straps and belts, although depending on the light it does not look totally black either. I'll probably apply some drybrushing to it at some point.
  
  
• Peel off and repositioning the holster straps. I've made a silly miscalculation that forced me to peel them off again, so now I have a holster with "battle damaged straps".
  
  
• Use a touched up padding shorts to try to make the pants fit better in the hip and thigh areas. Since the velcro on the pants barely stayed closed even before adding the padding, I've reinforced this closure on the inside with a horizontal strip of duct tape along the entire front.
  
  
• Add metallic mini-buttons on the belt bags, on top of the painted buttons.

Other pending things that I will do at some point are:

• Shape the lapels of the jacket.
• Change hands.
• Add all the accessories.
• Apply weathering in general.
• etc.

Thank you @Asta for all the very helpful tests you have done with this figure, and the questions you've answered me.

hi, am looking at s005 body for Luke Skywalker upgrade. am windering what is the height feet to shoulder for 005, is it the same height as the normal zc body just narrower body and thighs plus more reddish upper body tone?

like is around 170cm-175cm which translate to around 29cm full height. standard body is normally 25cm to shoulder.

 

[Random_Retard]

For anyone who's interested here's a direct comparison between the 3 different versions. Outfits only (Jackets, Pants, Shoes and Hands) since I don't have the Premier Toys belt or leg brace.
Only thing I've tempered with are the Dark Toys Jacket and Pants, everything else is completely unfutzed.

 

[potato]

Anyway guys looking for a 175cm body can try ganghood asian body. slightly reddish but suitable for mad max desert settings.

 

[Random_Retard]

Anyway guys looking for a 175cm body can try ganghood asian body. slightly reddish but suitable for mad max desert settings.

Slightly reddish is the problem. It's a rare body color in this hobby. And if you happen to find one the body is usually way too tall for an accurate Mel Max heightwise...

 

[potato]

Slightly reddish is the problem. It's a rare body color in this hobby. And if you happen to find one the body is usually way too tall for an accurate Mel Max heightwise...

do you mean you looking for slightly reddish body or is the reddish an issue. ganghood asian body is slightly reddish but for someone between 170-175 with or without the feet, pegs you can change the height slightly. The ankle slot can also be removed for even less height. however the hands are kinda smol. arms are also shorter than standard.

zytoys s002 and s003 are both reddish. more reddish than ganghood with 003 asian body slightly more reddish than 002, s002 is same sized as the tanned s001 with slightly narrower thighs (both have longer feet peg slot), 003 has normal peg slot, unlike s001 lower legs for both 002 and 003 cannot be removed and swapped out.

002 and 003 are still common in the market and cheaper. ganghood asian body stocks are running low and $10 more.

 

[Random_Retard]

do you mean you looking for slightly reddish body or is the reddish an issue. ganghood asian body is slightly reddish but for someone between 170-175 with or without the feet, pegs you can change the height slightly. The ankle slot can also be removed for even less height. however the hands are kinda smol. arms are also shorter than standard.

I meant that it's hard to find a slightly reddish colored body in this hobby.
There are some out there but they are more of an exception.

Really? You find the Ganghood Asian body to be reddish?
I'd say it's more a brownish tone... But I'm not the best with colors...
I don't have any Ganghood bodies here but I own the original Hot Toys Bruce Lee body that it was molded after.

 

[potato]

I meant that it's hard to find a slightly reddish colored body in this hobby.
There are some out there but they are more of an exception.

Really? You find the Ganghood Asian body to be reddish?
I'd say it's more a brownish tone... But I'm not the best with colors...
I don't have any Ganghood bodies here but I own the original Hot Toys Bruce Lee body that it was molded after.

yes slightly reddish. if you want more reddish zytoys 002 and 003 are more reddish but taller.

i also have those neckless asian hard plastic body but they arent reddish at all but still different from the normal tanned, like more vibrant brown than the dull light brown.

in the old days asian bodies are really whitish brown or reddish pink brown like from the old dragon figures. they dont make those colors anymore. yishun culture released the white brown but sold out usually for cartoon characters.