Thanks for the info! Do you think the head will fit on a standard truetype neck peg?Got my Indy in yesterday from OSK. It is…OK. The body is complete garbage—can’t stand on its own and the arms can’t get even remotely close to his sides. The coat was borderline impossible to get on all the way due to the huge arms. I am more forgiving now to how badly many of the reviewers had this futzed. I also had a massive shiny paint rub spot on the top front of his hat on the normal sculpt, so not a great first impression when you have to try and do paint touch-ups right out of the box. Will probably have to go back and redo it to try and get the color to match better. The smiling sculpt is pretty bad and will never leave the box again, it also has paint rub on the hat in different spots. Trigger hand can’t hold the pistol. Collar on my figure’s shirt is much larger than a few others I have seen, such as the one Justin reviewed. The lapel on the jacket collar is longer on the right side than the left. The jacket also wasn’t put inside the plastic bag it came in with any care so one of the pockets was halfway folded over and wants to stick up, I need to figure out how to flatten it down which will probably require getting the coat back off.
So yeah, it’s just alright. Probably a 6/10 figure for me. Please do not go and spend $300 on this. This picture was after close to an hour of painting and futzing and trying to arrange the clothes/jacket/belts.
2 mistakes in a roll, sorry about that, got dizzy last night while trying to fix some troubles..
Use tape.Also does anyone have any tips on how to keep 1/6 scale figure shirts from getting untucked?? It’s hella annoying having to retuck the figure’s shirt after a slight change in my pose positioning. What do you guys think?
I've started sewing an elastic strap from the front of the shirt to the back of the shirt for characters with tucked in shirts. It might be a pain to do, but it works. Not only does it keep the shirt tucked, but it usually helps the no-neck syndrome that some collared shirts create by keeping the shirt tautAlso does anyone have any tips on how to keep 1/6 scale figure shirts from getting untucked?? It’s hella annoying having to retuck the figure’s shirt after a slight change in my pose positioning. What do you guys think?
I was wondering myself as far as if the head would fit properly on other bodies ?And what about the base body for articulation, is it better to swap it out
If you're going to switch bodies, I would recommend removing the joint connector inside the head with a pair of needle nose pliers. It's glued in, but with a little bit of effort, it
If you're going to switch bodies, I would recommend removing the joint connector inside the head with a pair of needle nose pliers. It's glued in, but with a little bit of effort, it comes out clean. You can then use blu tak to secure the head to whatever neck joint is used on the replacement body.
would this work instead of blue tac? I am using one on one of my customs to help fill the hole and it works quite well, it's a soft rubber like material. I also have a worldbox body which has interchangable neck pegs which I think is what present toys based their body on. |
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would this work instead of blue tac? I am using one on one of my customs to help fill the hole and it works quite well, it's a soft rubber like material. I also have a worldbox body which has interchangable neck pegs which I think is what present toys based their body on.
I've used exactly the same connector for the Worldbox body I swapped out for the Present toys one.--
Nothing like doing it and learning it the good old fashioned DIY way.
Let us know how it works out.
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