Same here, I think it is a great figure and it looks great. The only flaw I can see on my shelf is the seam but it is not that visible. I do believe (and I'll admit I had the same first impression) that what may make people think it is cheap are the compartments/gadgets. IMO those mecanisms would need more work, they do feel bit cheap and don't work that well. Still you can manage to set them as you want and on the shelf you would not know they aren't the best engineering designs.
Sideshow 1/6 R2-D2
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Same here, I think it is a great figure and it looks great. The only flaw I can see on my shelf is the seam but it is not that visible. I do believe (and I'll admit I had the same first impression) that what may make people think it is cheap are the compartments/gadgets. IMO those mecanisms would need more work, they do feel bit cheap and don't work that well. Still you can manage to set them as you want and on the shelf you would not know they aren't the best engineering designs.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
Mine is all guts-out at the moment, but I'm loving this R2 - even more than I expected. I've glued a few small pieces of styrene near the wheels to give him a little bit more lift and I've cleaned up a lot of the weathering with some rubbing alcohol - just really quickly.
Oh, I missed that you received this already, Pixel. Glad you like him. He really is a great little droid. I still admire him, since he's front and center in my display due to his height.
I'm holding out for SS's 3PO too. Think they'll look great together.
I'm holding out for SS's 3PO too. Think they'll look great together.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
Picked him up on Saturday and had Tama 3PO delivered today. I'm liking both figures, each has its quirks, oddities and negative aspects, but overall they're both impressive. I have no doubts the SSC 3PO is going to be equally impressive in its own right.
Oops, didn't see you got Tama-PO too -- my threepio comment wasn't meant as a dig.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
I didn't think that for a second. I think the SSC 3PO looks awesome - I was gong to get that one as I'd been looking for a good price on the Tama for a long time and had all but given up on it. I've been getting a lot of requests to make a battery replacement module for it and recently I found some nice prices which I missed out on, but it renewed my interest, so I just ordered from Japan at the lowest price I could find.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
He's all taken apart right now - give me some days to put him back together - all the king's horses and all the king's men are comning over tomorrow to help me out.
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I think it's just you and me who are getting SSC's C-3Leno. I get to do the Tama/SSC side-by-side pics though, then weep when Ht announces their 3PO six months later. At that point I'm a Medi owner.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
Here's what I've done to my R2 while investigating the lighting.
1. Disabled the touch switch - turning the master switch to ON immediately powers up all the lights
2. Tied the projector light to the master switch - it comes on with the rest of the lights
3. Disabled the blink of the red front LED by tying it to permanent ground (instead of oscillating ground controlled by the IC)
4. Disabled the blue LED
5. Partly masked the lens to create a shadow next to the red LED (vertical).
Unfortunately, the only way to override the touch switch so that any lights come on with the master switch is to short two wires (or two points on the circuit board). I'm trying to figure out an easy way for someone else to do this without soldering.
1. Disabled the touch switch - turning the master switch to ON immediately powers up all the lights
2. Tied the projector light to the master switch - it comes on with the rest of the lights
3. Disabled the blink of the red front LED by tying it to permanent ground (instead of oscillating ground controlled by the IC)
4. Disabled the blue LED
5. Partly masked the lens to create a shadow next to the red LED (vertical).
Unfortunately, the only way to override the touch switch so that any lights come on with the master switch is to short two wires (or two points on the circuit board). I'm trying to figure out an easy way for someone else to do this without soldering.
weaponslayer
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Hi Pixel! Would there be a way to keep the oscillating Red/Blue front LED feature and possibly the option to turn on or off the projector light? That projector LED is pretty bright and if it's in your line of sight while working on the computer it can become pretty annoying. Worst case scenario I guess I could always slap a Neutral Density filter gel in front of the LED to reduce brightness but I'd prefer to avoid that.
I'm planning to do this overhaul at the same time I repaint the figure. I live an hours drive from Cheungkinmen so we're going to pimp this badboy hiding seams and full repaint / weathering.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
Both of those are default. I had to purposefully change and solder wires to get it to work the way I mentioned - this is what I need for my particular display.
At the moment, replacing only the batteries with wired power, the touch switch will need to be used to turn on/off the lighting. Any time power to R2 is cut, such as unplugging the adapter or turning off the lighting system he's attached to, when it's brought back, he will not light up until the touch switch is touched. This will be the behavior when anyone buys a battery eliminator setup from me.
So what i'm trying to do right now is come up with something simple that anyone can do when fitting one of my adapters to make all the lights (but not the projector) come on immediately when power is turned ON.
weaponslayer
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Sounds sweet, I'd want everything to work from a single remote but if it isn't possible I guess I can always learn how to solder, everyday it seems more indispensable to this hobby anyway.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
My hope is all you'll have to do is remove three screws, open the dome up, clip something onto R2's innards, put him back together and put the three screws back. But I've also been looking into the possibility of just removing the dome, sliding something into the crack around the outside of the dome lip and that's it. So far no luck with that though.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
I hope someone can do me a solid... I know some of you guys have had your domes replaced in the past, and I hope a few are possibly sitting on an extra dome that I might be able to acquire. Since I'm working on two completely different sets of projects for R2, one involving moving wires around, I really need to have two domes so that I can keep one stock. I don't care if the paint nor plastics have blemishes or warts. Send me a PM if you can make it happen please.
Send me a PM if you can make it happen please.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
This is going to be dripping with potential innuendo, but that's purely by coincidence wrt the subject matter.
As I was going to glue down a couple of openings anyway, I decided to try pulling excessively hard - no problems. I can't see the shaft breaking with an extremely strong, but even, pull. So to anyone having problems keeping it up, don't be afraid to put your wrist and elbow right into it and pull it hard. Just don't yank or jerk it.
Phew.
Prototype battery eliminator fitment and functionality tested, all looks good. Going to wait on some new supplies before I make any for anyone else though, as I'm not liking the construction process with the materials I have at the moment - it's a small adapter and very fiddly when trying to do it precisely the same was I do AAA models. Same goes for the Tama 3PO.
jedijim3002
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Hey pix. Is there any potential to burn out the bulbs in the figures themselves with this new power system you install? I like the idea but worry about too much use and having to replace them down the road and what might that look like as far as replacement parts.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
No. The electronics within R2 are well designed and implemented with resistors protecting every LED sub-assembly. All the LEDs except the projector are SMD variety and super tiny - they'd be a nightmare to replace but they have a very long life and by all appearances are soldered in top notch fashion to their boards. The projector uses a 5mm "hat" type LED which would be easy to replace - but also not likely to fail.
Running wired power is no more risky than the batteries on this guy.
jedijim3002
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Cool. Thanks for the heads up.
Hey Pix, please do keep us posted on your lighting progress. I recently purchased an R2 and would love to be able to somehow control it from a remote.
On another note, do you have anything already designed for the Hot Toys "Dallas" and "Kane" figures? I would definitely be interested in that as well.
On another note, do you have anything already designed for the Hot Toys "Dallas" and "Kane" figures? I would definitely be interested in that as well.
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