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dorg, great stuff man. scout casts are looking great.
you be able to give me a quick how to on the best way to make a mold of a head with no neck? gona make casts of my jango/ clone head and not sure how to go about it. appreciate any hlep when you get the chance.:peace
 
I thought I should add that I can make the cummerbund and pouch set in Black (or any color really)for those interested, so if anyone looking to get a scout kit from Mark when the time comes, and wants their cummerbund and pouch set in black they should let him know ahead of time, but not unless they are 100% sure they are going to be getting a kit.

I just dont want to have wasted time making black sets I will likely get stuck with if people change their minds after they are made, white ones I can always get rid of but black would be harder.

I will also send black belt material and a black holster to Mark for anyone wanting a black pouch set with their kit if they want.

Anyhow I just wanted to throw some options out there for you guys, since I planned to make a black scout like pm07 for myself, to go with my soon to be black commando. :)
 
dorg, great stuff man. scout casts are looking great.
you be able to give me a quick how to on the best way to make a mold of a head with no neck? gona make casts of my jango/ clone head and not sure how to go about it. appreciate any hlep when you get the chance.:peace

I dunno what Dorgs's solution to that is, but what I do is I make a clay "neck" by sticking a lump of clay under the head if it has no neck, then you pour the mold. When you remove the clay you can either:

A) use mold release (professional stuff, or just vegetable oil or vaseline) and make a second part of the mold that fills where the clay neck used to be

or

B) don't make a second part of the mold, just when you cast it, if you're casting it solid (not recommended) don't fill it all the way up, or, if you're rotocasting (spinning the mold while the resin sets so it makes a coating over the inside surfaces of the mold, which makes the cast end up being hollow and more bubble-free), then you just rotocast it and dremel off the extra neck part.


I hope that answers your question... If you mean how do you set up a mold around a head without a neck, well instead of sticking the head straight into your poured mold upside down, you put it on a blob of clay, right side up (not upside down) inside your mold container.

I'll post diagrams soon if you'd like.


EDIT: Here's a diagram I whipped up, hope it helps!

<a href="https://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss211/the_dude_person/?action=view&current=castingdiagram-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss211/the_dude_person/castingdiagram-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

1- just the headsculpt before casting

2- the blue area represents a blob of clay stuck underneath the head to provide support

3- the mold box is constructed, represented by white lines

4- the silicone is poured over the head in the mold box, the silicone is shown as pink

5- After the mold has cured, the mold box is deconstructed, leaving only the mold itself with head and clay inside

6- The mold is turned upside down, and the clay is removed (scraped out)

7- The opening of the mold is widened with a knife, creating a funnel shape. Some form of mold release, i.e. vaseline or vegetable oil, is applied to the silicone to prevent the second part from bonding with the first part of the mold

8- The second part of the mold is poured, represented by a lighter pink than the rest of the pink silicone

9- Once the second part cures, it is removed

10- the original head is now removed

11- Resin is mixed and poured into the mold, represented by a light yellow color

12- the mold is not all the way full, and the second piece is put back

13- the mold is rotated by hand while it sets, covering the inside with a thin layer of resin.

14- here, the resin has finished curing, with the light-yellow cast head still inside the mold

15- the second piece of the mold is removed

16- The cast head is removed from the mold. It is shown side-by-side with the original. You now have a hollow replica of the original.
 
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dude, good little tutorial there man. nice stuff. all of that helps a ton. answers my questions and then some. thanks man!
 
Great tutorial DP.. very helpful I learnt loads LOL.

I do mine a slightly different way but the principle is the same. I stick the head on a piece of dowel then do the mould. then when it comes to casting it I stick the dowel down inside the head. ( i wrap the dowel cling film to stop it sticking)

I will try to tack some shots next time I do one mate.
 
dude, good little tutorial there man. nice stuff. all of that helps a ton. answers my questions and then some. thanks man!

Great tutorial DP.. very helpful I learnt loads LOL.

I do mine a slightly different way but the principle is the same. I stick the head on a piece of dowel then do the mould. then when it comes to casting it I stick the dowel down inside the head. ( i wrap the dowel cling film to stop it sticking)

I will try to tack some shots next time I do one mate.

You're quite welcome Ryan! :)

And Dorgs you're supposed to be the expert here! :lol

Yeah I'm just too lazy to get dowels and cut a piece, just a lump of clay is sufficient.

I actually had never tried roto-casting before I heard about it from you I think, Dorgs.



Also, if you can't manage to extricate your original piece from the hole in the mold, you might want to cut it up the back of the head, so that it forms a clam-shell type thingy... That way, you can open the mold at the back and pull out the head without having seem lines on the front of the face (you get seem lines a lot when you have slits in your mold, the seem lines require an extra bit of sanding down)

For my Nien Nunb sculpt, I used the bottom end of a McD's cup, which means the mold is cylindrical, and distributes pressure along the sides evenly when you put a rubber band around it.

So for Nien Nunb, I cut a line up the back to remove the head after each casting, but the crack stays nice and tightly shut so no resin leaks out when a rubber band is holding the mold together.



Oh, and that second mold piece isn't absolutely necessary, you can leave the top open as long as it doesn't matter what the underside of your casted piece looks like. Just then you have to be more careful while roto-casting not to spill any resin.

Also, the other slight drawback to not having a second mold piece is that you will oftentimes have to dremel off the "neck" part of the cast, but since it should be hollow when roto-casting, it should only be a very thin layer of resin and should be able to be cut off without difficulty.



Oh, and one more thing, if you've never casted anything before Ryan, then make note of this: most resin sets very quickly, going from mixed up liquid to (mostly) solid piece in under 2 minutes. Therefore, you need to work very quickly to pour in the resin and get it sloshing around inside the mold.

If you pour the resin in the mold and go to blow your nose before rotating it, by the time you come back it will be completely solidified! :horror

One last thing (I know, I said that last time), even when you think the resin piece has solidified (i.e. the resin no longer moves when you tip the mold), that may not be the case.

In fact, I've casted heads quite a few times, and only waited about a minute after it "hardened" to remove it from the mold. The process of removing it completely squished and deformed it, it was still somewhat squishy and wasn't completely done curing.

ALWAYS WAIT AT LEAST 5 MINUTES AFTER HARDENING TO REMOVE YOUR CAST PIECE! Or you may squish it and wind up with a hideous waste of resin, rather than a perfect reproduction of your original piece.


Hope this advice helps anyone interested in casting, Dorgs may not be the "Master Caster" around here for much longer! :lol
 
LOL I am no expert and no master... just a freak on a mission LOL.

Well the jury is out and heres one to get a good heated debate gong...
Hasbro or Tomy helm.....???



My personal opinion... well beuty is in the eye of the beholder and all that old pudding but there is no question the Tomy is a superior sculpt and is a stunning helm... but I feel it it to small. SO I guess atm I like the Hasbro.. plus it is 100 times easer to cast LOL.

If folk want a Tomy I will do my best but they are tough to cast.


I have already taken Bills suggestion for the belt and its great. The side straps I have not done as I have not got anything thin enough yet. It would also be cool to get some little clips to.



<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/speeder%20bike/sa31.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/speeder%20bike/sa32.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/speeder%20bike/sa34.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/speeder%20bike/sa35.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/speeder%20bike/sa36.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/speeder%20bike/sa37.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/speeder%20bike/sa38.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Nein numb is done, looking forward to painting one up.

Let me know if you want one.


<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/numb/numb9.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<img src="https://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/Dorgmal/numb/numb10.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
WOW mate!! Those Scouts look great, nice job!! I like all the extra details you and Bill are adding to these guys, super.

Nein Numb loos fantastic Mark, you know I am down for a couple!!
 
Hey Dorgs, there are 2 versions of the Hasbro Scout, and the version that was sold without the bike has pretty spot on gloves. I had been meaning to get around to casting up this armor for over 3 years now, glad to see someone finally tackling this project. I hope to get the gloves cast up myself, but at the rate I go it might be another 3 years and SS will have come out with their version by then. Have you seen these gloves before?

edit: Gloves on the left are the sans bike version, right are the boxing glove with bike version.
 
doooh cheers chaps.

Right PRICES.


casts of Nein Numb LOL (yes I know its not spelt like that, I am doing it as I know it winds some one up and I am dyslexic as a badgers blind granny with a squirrel on her head. SO if its spelt right or wrong it looks the same to me :))

Right as I was swaying Pricez!

Nein Nanb head is £11 and then £2 postage over seas.


The scout armour...


this is a really tough one as I know some folks may want the hasbo bucket and some want the tomy, some will want the resin gloves some will not.

so.....

The armour: £14 and then £2 postage over seas.

chest back and front
elbow pad
forearm pad
knee pads
shoulder bells
belt pouches
Hasbro helm


extras available:
blaster £4
Solid resin gloves (non-drilled) £4
Solid resin gloves (drilled) £6
boots (unsprayed) £5
black combat trousers £9 (only have a few pairs)
Cast of two part tomy £10 (these are so hard to cast)
(I will have loads of fails that just need filling, but it will be pot luck how bad they are) £4



You may need some other bits...
a body suit & cummerbund (speak to Bill (Vivisect)
body
elastic
something to make the belt.

 
WAAAAYYY back on page 93 I mentioned it. They are better, the boots are too. I think the helmet may have been changed as well, but I'm not positive on that one.


And the Tomy helmet is cool, but I think out of the two you show, the Hasbro is better in size.
 
They are better, the boots are too. I think the helmet may have been changed as well, but I'm not positive on that one.

Actually the boots are HUUUUGE, way oversized. I did a comparison many years ago, and I thought the helmets were different sizes, turns out it's the paint job that makes them look different. They also have different chest armor.
 
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