Reinhardt
Super Freak
I want Art Asylum to do a Reliant dammit!
Star Trek Figures -- Playmates, Diamond Select, Etc.
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screamingmetal
Super Freak
Even setting aside shuttlecraft, getting an in-scale TNG Romulan Warbird or Narada, for instance, is difficult.Or Borg cube.
Or Romulan Scimitar.
It's strange that there isn't a Romulan Warbird in 1:2500, but not surprising they haven't made the ugly *** Narada or the ridiculously huge Borg Cube in 1:2500.
But it's not impossible for either a Romulan Warbird or Scimitar to be made, either as an official model kit by AMT/Round2 or Revell, as an electronic ship from Art Asylum, or as a garage kit.
The Romulan Valdore ship from Nemesis is pretty large and available in 1:2500 scale as a garage kit, so a 19" long Romulan D'daridex Warbird isn't out of the question.
For me other then the D'daridex and Scimitar, that would only leave the Borg Cube missing in that scale, don't care much for the Narada.
screamingmetal
Super Freak
I just saw this, I think you'd might like it!
https://www.shopafx.com/afxexsttr3kl.html
Available from AFX though it might be available elsewhere if you give it a few days (I thought the Star Trek III BOP was exclusive there, but you can find it elsewhere now).
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wax murderer
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The cargo space is probably the reason to chose that body type for a Shuttlecraft. Well, at least I hope you didn't get the van in white with Starfleet decals.
The Delta Flyer, Runabouts, and Warp Sled with Shuttle are some of the better looking Shuttlecraft imo.
Silver;almost put some decals on it, put sanity prevailed...PS
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Yea, i will be getting that Kruge STIII Disruptor pistol for sure then. XD
I got around to taking some pics of my BOP and Enterprise B, BOP is definitely the best ship Diamond Select/Art Asylum have released to date and the Ent B is pretty damn nice though my crap pics don't do it any justice.
I got around to taking some pics of my BOP and Enterprise B, BOP is definitely the best ship Diamond Select/Art Asylum have released to date and the Ent B is pretty damn nice though my crap pics don't do it any justice.
JonWes
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So looking forward to these! I broke down yesterday and ordered the BOP. Now if BBTS would ever get the freaking B in stock I can ship my order! I also went ahead and got the new version of the E just because I liked the upgrades they made.
I did pre-order the disruptor pistol. It's a bit expensive, but it's a neat piece, and I'm a nut for the role play items.
I also went ahead and got the new version of the E just because I liked the upgrades they made.I did pre-order the disruptor pistol. It's a bit expensive, but it's a neat piece, and I'm a nut for the role play items.
Damn those look cool. Hopefully I'll be able to get more of these sometime when I run down my through my list of priorities. I only have the TWOK BD Enterprise.
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They definitely are and yet, i am still not 100% sold on the newer Nemesis Ent E since they are using the old chip from the previous Ent E release and because of this we get no permanent light up function.
I think my Bandai Ent E will suffice for now.
Just a few more pics from the same set i took, this time showing the maximum range of the wings on the BOP, i like to pose the wings on mine slightly raised from cruise position like it looked in STIV.
I think my Bandai Ent E will suffice for now.
Just a few more pics from the same set i took, this time showing the maximum range of the wings on the BOP, i like to pose the wings on mine slightly raised from cruise position like it looked in STIV.
wax murderer
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I still want to know what genius at ILM thought it was a good idea to put an impulse deck directly in front of the warp nacelle;yes, it's a nerd question, but a bad design is a bad design,period...PS
screamingmetal
Super Freak
Some great pics of the new ships Valfar! Thanks for sharing them with us.
I also prefer the wings slightly raised from flight mode for displaying the BOP, it seems more menacing that way, like an actual bird of prey swooping down on some poor unsuspecting mouse.
I also prefer the wings slightly raised from flight mode for displaying the BOP, it seems more menacing that way, like an actual bird of prey swooping down on some poor unsuspecting mouse.
screamingmetal
Super Freak
I got to open my Art Asylum Ent. E for my birthday, beautiful model.
The paint work on mine is superb. No wayward pendants, paint marks, missing or incorrect paint. I watched a review of the first release Ent E and it didn't have full aztecing on the underside of the saucer, which isn't the case here. I own the Enterprise D, Wrath of Kahn A, NX-01, and the Abrams Enterprise and this has to have the best paint work out of all of them.
Only nit pics are the copyright info is printed in big bold black lettering on the underside of the nacelle pylons where they meet the nacelles (not too much of an issue as I could clean it away with some acetone or something), there is a bit of light bleed around the bussard ramscoops and at the seams on the nacelles, and there is no way to just press the button to keep the lights on without sound effects.
But overall I'm very satisfied with this ship, other then the Hallmark ornament, this is my only version of this ship.
Now I have the Klingon BOP on it's way to me so I'm just missing the Ent. B and HD Ent A releases. Maybe I'll also get the All Good Things D but it's not at the top of my list.
I got a response back from Diamond Select's customer service about the Enterprise D neck window decals and they said they're sending them to me in the mail. You gotta love CS like that, even after all these years they still have the window decal sheet to fix the problem!
I hope they sent you your decal sheet as well Valfar.
The paint work on mine is superb. No wayward pendants, paint marks, missing or incorrect paint. I watched a review of the first release Ent E and it didn't have full aztecing on the underside of the saucer, which isn't the case here. I own the Enterprise D, Wrath of Kahn A, NX-01, and the Abrams Enterprise and this has to have the best paint work out of all of them.
Only nit pics are the copyright info is printed in big bold black lettering on the underside of the nacelle pylons where they meet the nacelles (not too much of an issue as I could clean it away with some acetone or something), there is a bit of light bleed around the bussard ramscoops and at the seams on the nacelles, and there is no way to just press the button to keep the lights on without sound effects.
But overall I'm very satisfied with this ship, other then the Hallmark ornament, this is my only version of this ship.
Now I have the Klingon BOP on it's way to me so I'm just missing the Ent. B and HD Ent A releases. Maybe I'll also get the All Good Things D but it's not at the top of my list.
I got a response back from Diamond Select's customer service about the Enterprise D neck window decals and they said they're sending them to me in the mail. You gotta love CS like that, even after all these years they still have the window decal sheet to fix the problem!
I hope they sent you your decal sheet as well Valfar.
screamingmetal
Super Freak
I need some info from people who own the Diamond Klingon Bird of Prey.
I just got my third Diamond BOP as the first two had issues, this one's disruptors started to flicker and dim to barely being lit. The intensity of the light is barely noticeable now. all the other lights look fine. I replaced the batteries with new ones and this does nothing to fix the issue.
Does anyone who has the ship have the same issue now or when they first got their ship?
The first one's left disruptor was split along the seam and let a ton of green light spew out, the second one's right wing was screwed up and wouldn't lock into position and just flopped around like crazy, now this one's disruptor's green lights have dimmed to nothing. The first two ships had very bright green disruptor lights that didn't flicker at all.
I've never heard of anyone having issues like these with theirs, just wanted to know if the dimmed flickering lights are common or not and if anyone might know what the issue is?
I just got my third Diamond BOP as the first two had issues, this one's disruptors started to flicker and dim to barely being lit. The intensity of the light is barely noticeable now. all the other lights look fine. I replaced the batteries with new ones and this does nothing to fix the issue.
Does anyone who has the ship have the same issue now or when they first got their ship?
The first one's left disruptor was split along the seam and let a ton of green light spew out, the second one's right wing was screwed up and wouldn't lock into position and just flopped around like crazy, now this one's disruptor's green lights have dimmed to nothing. The first two ships had very bright green disruptor lights that didn't flicker at all.
I've never heard of anyone having issues like these with theirs, just wanted to know if the dimmed flickering lights are common or not and if anyone might know what the issue is?
Does anyone know what Hot Wheels Diecast Star Trek 1/50 scale case releases will be?
I what to order the case that includes the USS Kelvin and USS Vengeance, but not sure about the case number.
A few online stores has them for pre-order. I don't want to order a case of ships that I all ready have.
Thanks in advance for any info!
I what to order the case that includes the USS Kelvin and USS Vengeance, but not sure about the case number.
A few online stores has them for pre-order. I don't want to order a case of ships that I all ready have.
Thanks in advance for any info!
screamingmetal
Super Freak
That's a bit of a mystery at the moment. According to Memory Alpha the 2013 wave 1 (series 4) will have the Kelvin, Excelsior, Vengeance, and the new Klingon BOP which will be released in June.
The Narada, NX-01, and TOS Enterprise are now listed as unconfirmed re-releases. I'd wait until they start showing up before pre-ordering a case of ships you don't really want.
They're larger then you might think (at least the older ships were) they can be anywhere from 4" to 6.5" long. They're easily larger then the ships from Johnny Lightning, Furuta, and Heroclix. Also, they're not 100% diecast, most have plastic parts. The Enterprise D for instance has a diecast metal upper engineering section but the nacelles and saucer are plastic (I also should add that the saucer can be detached and re-attached with magnets.
There is also a 1:64 Hot Wheels Abrams Enterprise in the regular Hot Wheels Imagination series that's on pegs with their small cars, It's I believe 2.5" long and not worth paying more than a dollar for (very cheap looking).
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screamingmetal
Super Freak
A bit of a followup on my Diamond select BOP debacle, I left the lights on #3 for half an hour and then the Disruptor lights stopped working almost entirely. So I sent #3 back to Amazon. #4 arrived and the lights, sound and wing pivots worked just fine, but the baffles (shoulders of the wings) where they attach to the fuselage moved a lot, so much that I was afraid they might break off the ship. Rather then send #4 back for a fifth one, I decided to fix this one myself.
Here's a rundown on how to fix this issue for anyone who's experiencing the same:
The screws to take the fuselage apart are located two under the neck (the plastic tube covering these easily just pulls away from the neck), two under the batteries in the battery compartment, and two in the underside rear covered by screw covers. The screw covers were removed by drilling a tiny hole in the center then inserting a paperclip and prying them off. This should only leave a tiny hole when you're done and can be filled and repainted easily, the screw covers are long and not glued in place.
But the lower half of the fuselage will not come off entirely, it's still secured in place at the neck but it will allow you to pull the two halves apart enough to fix the baffles in place as long as you have a small necked screwdriver that you can slide inside the main body. The baffles and the wings themselves secure to the fuselage with a line of four tiny screws on the outside edge inside the ships main body. Tightening these screws will help secure the wings to the body better, but I went one step further by undoing the screws and sliding out the baffles from wells in the upper fuselage. I then put superglue on the underside of the baffles, reinserted them into the wells on the body and quickly screwed the baffles back onto the body. Do one side at a time as the superglue sets up quickly.
Then you just get the fuselage together. The "try me/full on" button will come loose, just replace it on the switch before putting the ship back together.
Now I have a perfect ship! The lights all work and are bright, wings aren't floppy and set into position, baffles are strongly secured to the body, and there's no light bleed from the Disruptors.
I've never had this many issues with a Diamond/Art Asylum ship before. The experience has soured me from buying anymore of these ships, I might try again later on, but not anytime soon, I've had enough of this s-**t for now.
Here's a rundown on how to fix this issue for anyone who's experiencing the same:
The screws to take the fuselage apart are located two under the neck (the plastic tube covering these easily just pulls away from the neck), two under the batteries in the battery compartment, and two in the underside rear covered by screw covers. The screw covers were removed by drilling a tiny hole in the center then inserting a paperclip and prying them off. This should only leave a tiny hole when you're done and can be filled and repainted easily, the screw covers are long and not glued in place.
But the lower half of the fuselage will not come off entirely, it's still secured in place at the neck but it will allow you to pull the two halves apart enough to fix the baffles in place as long as you have a small necked screwdriver that you can slide inside the main body. The baffles and the wings themselves secure to the fuselage with a line of four tiny screws on the outside edge inside the ships main body. Tightening these screws will help secure the wings to the body better, but I went one step further by undoing the screws and sliding out the baffles from wells in the upper fuselage. I then put superglue on the underside of the baffles, reinserted them into the wells on the body and quickly screwed the baffles back onto the body. Do one side at a time as the superglue sets up quickly.
Then you just get the fuselage together. The "try me/full on" button will come loose, just replace it on the switch before putting the ship back together.
Now I have a perfect ship! The lights all work and are bright, wings aren't floppy and set into position, baffles are strongly secured to the body, and there's no light bleed from the Disruptors.
I've never had this many issues with a Diamond/Art Asylum ship before. The experience has soured me from buying anymore of these ships, I might try again later on, but not anytime soon, I've had enough of this s-**t for now.
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Do you have any of the Eaglemoss Star Trek ships screamingmetal?
If you do, how did you get hold of them and what do you think of line? How are the castings and detail?
Is it worth hunting them down? From their website, they look pretty good, but prototypes and actual production pieces can be two completely different animals.
Again, thanks for your response and info!
If you do, how did you get hold of them and what do you think of line? How are the castings and detail?
Is it worth hunting them down? From their website, they look pretty good, but prototypes and actual production pieces can be two completely different animals.
Again, thanks for your response and info!
screamingmetal
Super Freak
I unfortunately don't have any Eaglemoss Starships MwNN, so I can't tell you anything about them.
I'm curious about them as well.
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