1/6 Hot Toys - Robocop 3 - Robocop Collectible Figure.

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My quest to fix all the gaps on this figure continue. After using Chilipep's tips to eliminate the gap between the shoulder and the torso, I decided to go after the giant gap in his wrist. The gap certainly allows for great articulation but regardless of gauntlet futzing a noticeable gap always remains somewhere in the space between the elbow and wrist.

I opened up the articulated hand, and simply moved the plunger socket down about 1/8 of an inch, enough to eliminate the gap. I had to cut away some plastic channels to accommodate the new placement. Then I glued the socket down, and wedged/glued a small piece of plastic under it to keep the socket from being pushed in during use. Then reassembled gluing the palm pieces back together. It's a simple clean mod, leaving no visible trace once reassembled except for a slightly deeper sitting socket. Now the gap is gone. Because of the soft rubber socket and gauntlet, I still retain all the articulation and secure fit.

Here's a look at a comparison between an unmodded hand and a modded one.

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Here's the hand on the inside, modded, before reassembly...

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The modded hand from the outside after reassembly...

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With the shoulder and wrists done, I'm pretty happy. I'm not sure if anything can be done about the gaps between the leg connections and hips.

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Hello Rory, I don't understand, can you explain what you've cut to bring the arms closer to the torso Please? 😊
 
Hello Rory, I don't understand, can you explain what you've cut to bring the arms closer to the torso Please? 😊
You'll want to read Chilipep66's post on the last page for exactly how to do it. It's his mod. It involves opening up the arm and dremelling some parts down.
 
You'll want to read Chilipep66's post on the last page for exactly how to do it. It's his mod. It involves opening up the arm and dremelling some parts down.
These 2 parts. However, I am not confident in opening up the arm without scratching the paint
 

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Finish applying a new semigloss topcoat to all the black areas, which in my opinion is a bit more accurate to his onscreen look compared to Hot Toy's high plastic shine look. For that I used Mr Super Clear Semi Gloss topcoat. Plus, I think it looks a little less toy like. Between that and modding out the gaps in the shoulders and wrists, I think I'm done tinkering with this now.

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Finish applying a new semigloss topcoat to all the black areas. Between that and modding out all the gaps in the shoulders and wrists, I think I'm done tinkering with this now.

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This looks fantastic. The stock glossy finish just evaporates all the shape and detail since it has no depth; this makes the figure nearly perfect. I'd love to do this, but I'm terrified I'd break something, or worse, screw up the paintjob. Good airbrush kits aren't cheap, either--and I don't know if one of the cheap ones on Amazon would do the job.
 
@rory with the removal of the gaps from the arms, has it lessened the range of articulation for those areas?
 
@rory with the removal of the gaps from the arms, has it lessened the range of articulation for those areas?
Not at all. The arms connect to the torso via a ball joint that moves on an extending torso socket joint, so you can still pull them outwards, just like before, to get a larger range of motion. But, unlike before, now the arms can be pushed all the way flush to the torso for gapless look if desired. And there’s a double ball joint in the upper forearm and wrist, so you still maintain all that motion as well.

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This looks fantastic. The stock glossy finish just evaporates all the shape and detail since it has no depth; this makes the figure nearly perfect. I'd love to do this, but I'm terrified I'd break something, or worse, screw up the paintjob. Good airbrush kits aren't cheap, either--and I don't know if one of the cheap ones on Amazon would do the job.
Well fortunately it’s easy enough to open up the torso and separate all the black parts for refinishing if desired. There’s a post a few pages back walking through it. Plus for this, since it’s just a topcoat, I used an aerosol and didn’t have to airbrush. So I’d say that part is pretty easy. The joint modding is another story though, lol.
 
Well fortunately it’s easy enough to open up the torso and separate all the black parts for refinishing if desired. There’s a post a few pages back walking through it. Plus for this, since it’s just a topcoat, I used an aerosol and didn’t have to airbrush. So I’d say that part is pretty easy. The joint modding is another story though, lol.
Interesting. Do you mind linking the spray you used? Also, any tips on ensuring the paint doesn't dry in a way that locks up the joints of the torso?
 
Does it just pop off like a ball joint or is that a more involved process? Didn't see that part mentioned in your previous post about the disassembly.
It’s attached by a few screws inside. Once opened, it’s pretty straightforward. The two halves come apart easily.
 
Hey if anyone here is willing to part their's out, let me know. I'd like to grab some extra bits to experiment with.
 
Well finally got another detolf built yesterday and just got through opening this figure up and posing it around. This figure impresses me. If only the paint had looked like this the first time. I actually ended up posing him with the flight pack and combo gun arm. It just looks cool to me. I will probably change it to regular robocop at some point, but right now it looks great. I did switch out to my custom stand with crotch support because the hot toys waist grabber is angled and terrible. Such a good figure and i am glad i pulled the trigger on this. Next week i got green goblin deluxe and a ant-man and wasp: ant-man figure i managed to score as a last chance figure at special price. Should be a fun week.
 
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So i hear from other collectors that say aerospace 303 protectant is good for preserving and protecting rubber on figures. The guy said he used on his ed 209 to prevent cracking. How would i use it on robocop? Like spray some on q-tips or something? Never used this stuff before.
 
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