1/6 Hot Toys - VGM62/62B - StarWars Legends : Darth Revan

[DarkChocobi]

I hate this figure, cheap @ss plastic doll.

 

[borgified]

You know what's even cheaper and it still looks like trash @DarkChocobi? It's made by Star Ace or MEGO.

Darth Malgas might be the only redeeming figure from the Star Wars: Legends line literally if you didn't get Starkiller (Galen).

 

[DarkChocobi]

You know what's even cheaper and it still looks like trash @DarkChocobi? It's made by Star Ace or MEGO.

Darth Malgas might be the only redeeming figure from the Star Wars: Legends line literally if you didn't get Starkiller (Galen).

I have Starkiller approaching my place with rapid speed as I'm b itching about how cheap Revan feels in hand at this very moment. Will make a comparison later though.

 

[Deathstalker]

That’s where I am with this figure.. I looks nice but at the same time it looks so cheap.. from the pleated skirt to the plastic rings holding the armor in place. Sure, nice paint apps but it’s still cheap looking overall. I hav it on order and have not received a shipment notice yet but still hemming and hawing about cancelling it..

 

[darth dennis]

I have Starkiller approaching my place with rapid speed as I'm b itching about how cheap Revan feels in hand at this very moment. Will make a comparison later though.

The pics look fantastic of both Starkiller and Revan. Fortunately, I don't sit around holding my figures in-hand, so on the shelf should look fine I am interested to get it to see what you're referencing though.

 

[rayeknor]

Shipping next week from SS.

 

[borgified]

That’s where I am with this figure.. It looks nice but at the same time it looks so cheap from the pleated skirt to the plastic rings holding the armor in place.

Just having real metal rings holding the armour in place and a proper flowing cloak will make the difference to make it stand out, but knowing how HT operates at times with their outstanding products, they skimp out on things to make look affordable to their expectations and we pay the price afterwards when things start degrading.

My copy should be arriving maybe sometime in latter January/early February as I’m getting it sent out from Markham, Ontario to Raincouver if the Postal Strike doesn’t happen again despite the contract is not appealing to both parties that are involved.

 

[Raleig.h]

This figure looks exactly the same as the proto, and is built the same as any other HT, not sure how this comes off as any more "cheap" than any other normal release from HT.

 

[Redditeer28]

This figure looks exactly the same as the proto, and is built the same as any other HT, not sure how this comes off as any more "cheap" than any other normal release from HT.

I think it's how plasticy the chest and gauntlets are. I'm not sure what material they're meant to be but to me, it just registers as plastic to me. Compare that to the Starkiller that also has plastic on his chest. That just looks more premium to me. The thick hood that doesn't sit well doesn't help.

 

[Raleig.h]

I think it's how plasticy the chest and gauntlets are. I'm not sure what material they're meant to be but to me, it just registers as plastic to me. Compare that to the Starkiller that also has plastic on his chest. That just looks more premium to me. The thick hood that doesn't sit well doesn't help.

Honestly none of Hot Toys hoods sit well, but you can always work around it. Check my pic from some pages back, hood sits perfectly with some work. (I wish It fit straight out of the box though)

 

[svnmelter]

Opened up my Revan figure and inspected it today. I’m moving soon and don’t have room to display my figures at the moment, but I wanted to make sure it didn’t have any QC issues. The figure is much nicer in hand than I thought it would be. The way the metallic paint reflects in light. The lightsaber hilts. The texture on the gloves. I don’t see how this figure falls short in any way. Even the hood didn’t bother me. We’ve entered a golden age of collecting for 1:6 Star Wars and I don’t think any of us should take that for granted considering where we were 4 or 5 years ago.

 

[Pose Mastery]

Tired of your Darth Revan looking “cheap” or the “hood looking like ass”?

I did, so I fixed them. Maybe this will help you too.

The leg pegs are cheap looking, the shin guard also slides around too loosely. So do the forearm armor pieces. We can hit 2 birds with one stone. For the legs I made the left one better by giving it an ankle wrap. Then inserting a 2mm foam sheet under the armor to make it more fitted
Compare left and tight, left side no longer has visible peg and has proper volume.

When you finish both sides it looks like this, the armor is now sturdy too

For the hood you can make it form fitting like this instead of it floating above his head

It involves a little bit of sewing and inserting some magnets but the result is your can pose the hood in any way and look physically plausible. Let me know if you guys want a guide to do these.

 

[S. Griffin]

Tired of your Darth Revan looking “cheap” or the “hood looking like ass”?

I did, so I fixed them. Maybe this will help you too.

The leg pegs are cheap looking, the shin guard also slides around too loosely. So do the forearm armor pieces. We can hit 2 birds with one stone. For the legs I made the left one better by giving it an ankle wrap. Then inserting a 2mm foam sheet under the armor to make it more fitted
Compare left and tight, left side no longer has visible peg and has proper volume.
View attachment 749056
When you finish both sides it looks like this, the armor is now sturdy too
View attachment 749059

For the hood you can make it form fitting like this instead of it floating above his head
View attachment 749061
View attachment 749062
It involves a little bit of sewing and inserting some magnets but the result is your can pose the hood in any way and look physically plausible. Let me know if you guys want a guide to do these.

I'd certainly be interested in more details

 

[AssassinHood]

Tired of your Darth Revan looking “cheap” or the “hood looking like ass”?

I did, so I fixed them. Maybe this will help you too.

The leg pegs are cheap looking, the shin guard also slides around too loosely. So do the forearm armor pieces. We can hit 2 birds with one stone. For the legs I made the left one better by giving it an ankle wrap. Then inserting a 2mm foam sheet under the armor to make it more fitted
Compare left and tight, left side no longer has visible peg and has proper volume.
View attachment 749056
When you finish both sides it looks like this, the armor is now sturdy too
View attachment 749059

For the hood you can make it form fitting like this instead of it floating above his head
View attachment 749061
View attachment 749062
It involves a little bit of sewing and inserting some magnets but the result is your can pose the hood in any way and look physically plausible. Let me know if you guys want a guide to do these.

Please give a guide!

 

[Joe Prince]

Kinda glad I sold this. I have the mini bust which is more than enough

 

[Pose Mastery]

Please give a guide!

Here’s a guide on improving HT Darth Revan. The figure is quite good, what’s missing is the usual padding they put into armored figures to keep them in place, and some stitches in the hood to keep it down. The steps in this guide made my figure feel pretty solid and poseable, they are completely non destructive, so you can always revert to original condition. Hopefully this will help you too.

I used these four materials pictured down below:
-2mm black foam sheet - (the same stuff found on HT Star Wars Clone figures) you can get it from art craft stores, they cost like $1.50 CAD - we will use this for armor padding
-5mm foam sheet - this will be used to cover the ankle peg to build volume
-neodymium magnets - I ended up using 10mmx5mmx3mm (the ones pictures below are actually bigger and thinner, which didn’t work as well as the smaller thicker ones), you can get them from Amazon for $20 CAD and they come in a box of 50
-a piece of stretchy black fabric of your choice - I used a stretchy synthetic material that’s pretty peal resistant from my tests, it has a leather like finish and a felt like base (not the canvas base HT pleather uses) I got it from my local fabric store for about $7 CAD for half a meter - we are going to make ankle covers out of this material

1. Fixing the ankles
Overview - we will end up with these

-to make the wrap take the black fabric and cut a rectangle of 45x30mm

-sew it together on the 30mm sides with the wrong side facing you, so when you turn it over the stitch line is hidden

-next cut a 10mm diameter circle with the 5mm thick foam sheet

-punch a hole through the center, I used a leather hole punch but you can use scizzors too

-we have these two done

-push the foam ring on to the ankle peg, it should stretch past the ball joint
-insert peg on to Revan’s leg if it became detached
-wrap the fabric around the leg and under the pants - at this point the foam ring should already be wrapped inside the fabric

-here’s what it looks like inside - I took it off so you can see what’s going on, don’t do this:

-before you put the foot back on, we have to insert padding under the shin guard

2. Padding the shin guard

-start by cutting the 2mm thick foam sheet into a 40mmx50mm rectangle, trim it down to a trapezoid shape so it can wrap into the shin guard, keep trimming until it fits, you want it smaller than the inside so when it slides on to the leg the foam doesn’t show

-HT usually glues this foam either on to the armor or to the body, we are doing neither, friction will keep it in place and is non destructive

-slide the shin guard with the padding on to the leg (you may find it easier to wrap the padding on to the leg first then slide the armor on after)

-you should now have this, do the same to the other leg

-the leg armor should feel pretty sturdy

3. Padding the forearm armor

-essentially the same as the shin guard padding, cut some foam and wrap it around the forearm and test fit the armor to your liking, I used some masking tape this time to hold it together since the forearm armor needs to move around when I’m posing it a lot, I didn’t want too much friction, just enough to make it feel sturdy

4. The hood
-Revan’s hood is actually very well done, I can’t replicate the design like I did with the AotC Anakin hood (see that thread if you’re curious). The only downside side is it’s not held down well enough. If you are familiar with the HT Force Awakens Kylo Ren hood, that one has the right shape. So we are going to do something similar, but better

-there are three layers we need to sew together with just 3-4 stiches
-the under side of the hood
-the collar
-the cape

-sew all three layers together with a few stitiches like 3-4 to make it secure, the tip of the hood should then be attached to the collar and the cape and should not come apart.
-here’s where the stitch ends up under the cape

-put 2 magnets inside the back of the hood where it sits on the collar

-put two under the collar where they remain hidden and they will attach to the first two

-the reason we don’t use a pair of magnets in the middle is because all of them will snap together due to proximity, so we sew the middle instead

-when you’re done the hood will look good from all sides and you can slide the magnets around if needed to pull the hood down more

-you can even turn his head, something you can’t do easily with the Kylo Ren (unless you change the stitching on it )

That’s all folks, hope your Revan feels more fun to play with. By the way I also did the ankle and shin guard thing to Baylan Skoll, he has the exact same problem, this fixed it for me.

“This machine behind me… what is it? It fabricates everything I need… it must be the true STAR FORGE!”

 

[AssassinHood]

Here’s a guide on improving HT Darth Revan. The figure is quite good, what’s missing is the usual padding they put into armored figures to keep them in place, and some stitches in the hood to keep it down. The steps in this guide made my figure feel pretty solid and poseable, they are completely non destructive, so you can always revert to original condition. Hopefully this will help you too.

I used these four materials pictured down below:
-2mm black foam sheet - (the same stuff found on HT Star Wars Clone figures) you can get it from art craft stores, they cost like $1.50 CAD - we will use this for armor padding
-5mm foam sheet - this will be used to cover the ankle peg to build volume
-neodymium magnets - I ended up using 10mmx5mmx3mm (the ones pictures below are actually bigger and thinner, which didn’t work as well as the smaller thicker ones), you can get them from Amazon for $20 CAD and they come in a box of 50
-a piece of stretchy black fabric of your choice - I used a stretchy synthetic material that’s pretty peal resistant from my tests, it has a leather like finish and a felt like base (not the canvas base HT pleather uses) I got it from my local fabric store for about $7 CAD for half a meter - we are going to make ankle covers out of this material

View attachment 749173


1. Fixing the ankles
Overview - we will end up with these
View attachment 749174

-to make the wrap take the black fabric and cut a rectangle of 45x30mm
View attachment 749175

-sew it together on the 30mm sides with the wrong side facing you, so when you turn it over the stitch line is hidden

-next cut a 10mm diameter circle with the 5mm thick foam sheet
View attachment 749176
-punch a hole through the center, I used a leather hole punch but you can use scizzors too
View attachment 749177
-we have these two done
View attachment 749178

-push the foam ring on to the ankle peg, it should stretch past the ball joint
-insert peg on to Revan’s leg if it became detached
-wrap the fabric around the leg and under the pants - at this point the foam ring should already be wrapped inside the fabric
View attachment 749181
-here’s what it looks like inside - I took it off so you can see what’s going on, don’t do this:
View attachment 749182
-before you put the foot back on, we have to insert padding under the shin guard

2. Padding the shin guard
View attachment 749183

-start by cutting the 2mm thick foam sheet into a 40mmx50mm rectangle, trim it down to a trapezoid shape so it can wrap into the shin guard, keep trimming until it fits, you want it smaller than the inside so when it slides on to the leg the foam doesn’t show

View attachment 749184

-HT usually glues this foam either on to the armor or to the body, we are doing neither, friction will keep it in place and is non destructive

-slide the shin guard with the padding on to the leg (you may find it easier to wrap the padding on to the leg first then slide the armor on after)

-you should now have this, do the same to the other leg
View attachment 749185

-the leg armor should feel pretty sturdy
View attachment 749186

3. Padding the forearm armor
View attachment 749188
-essentially the same as the shin guard padding, cut some foam and wrap it around the forearm and test fit the armor to your liking, I used some masking tape this time to hold it together since the forearm armor needs to move around when I’m posing it a lot, I didn’t want too much friction, just enough to make it feel sturdy

4. The hood
-Revan’s hood is actually very well done, I can’t replicate the design like I did with the AotC Anakin hood (see that thread if you’re curious). The only downside side is it’s not held down well enough. If you are familiar with the HT Force Awakens Kylo Ren hood, that one has the right shape. So we are going to do something similar, but better

-there are three layers we need to sew together with just 3-4 stiches
-the under side of the hood
-the collar
-the cape
View attachment 749192

-sew all three layers together with a few stitiches like 3-4 to make it secure, the tip of the hood should then be attached to the collar and the cape and should not come apart.
-here’s where the stitch ends up under the cape
View attachment 749195

-put 2 magnets inside the back of the hood where it sits on the collar
View attachment 749196
-put two under the collar where they remain hidden and they will attach to the first two
View attachment 749197

-the reason we don’t use a pair of magnets in the middle is because all of them will snap together due to proximity, so we sew the middle instead

-when you’re done the hood will look good from all sides and you can slide the magnets around if needed to pull the hood down more
View attachment 749198

View attachment 749199
View attachment 749200

-you can even turn his head, something you can’t do easily with the Kylo Ren (unless you change the stitching on it )
View attachment 749201

That’s all folks, hope your Revan feels more fun to play with. By the way I also did the ankle and shin guard thing to Baylan Skoll, he has the exact same problem, this fixed it for me.

View attachment 749202

“This machine behind me… what is it? It fabricates everything I need… it must be the true STAR FORGE!”

You're amazing. Many thanks for this.

 

[Karst]

Well, this Revan is based more on later appearances a la SWTOR/SWGoH (massive size, helmet instead of a mask), so it'll never quite be as cool as the classic look in my eyes, but it's very much a dream figure.

I tried to replicate the KOTOR single saber stance, it's weird to me not to see weird clipping or the stiff cape with no physics xD

 

[Pose Mastery]

Well, this Revan is based more on later appearances a la SWTOR/SWGoH (massive size, helmet instead of a mask), so it'll never quite be as cool as the classic look in my eyes, but it's very much a dream figure.

View attachment 749238

I tried to replicate the KOTOR single saber stance, it's weird to me not to see weird clipping or the stiff cape with no physics xD

View attachment 749239

View attachment 749240View attachment 749241View attachment 749242

Nice pose! Yes, something had to change in translation from the low poly model. The proportions, and the way the hood attaches didn’t make sense in the game.