Custom Bossk-just beginning...

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Mind sharing some of your molding techniques?

Not at all. Most important, if you want a good piece, you need to use good quality materials. That means clean clay, decent rubber and good resin. Admittedly, my standards are kinda high; I learned in a pro pattern shop. Anyway, my techniques...
Start by figuring out where your parting line is going to run. This is what everything keys off of. Set the piece up on a pedestal of clean clay, then build outward, following the parting line as much as possible. I have made a number of sculpting tools out of 1/4" dowels that are very useful in creating a nice clean parting line and mold surface. Also, make sure your keys are nice and sharp, so that they lock tightly; this minimizes parting line drift. If you're still having trouble getting a smooth surface, LIGHTLY smooth it with a paint brush and alcohol. Be careful; the alcohol will dissolve the clay if you overdo it.
That's the gist of it. Most of it is just things you learn through practice, though there's no better teacher than OJT(especially when you're getting paid for it!).
Will be doing more castings tomorrow; will take more pix. And yes, for the 99th time , I will be making copies available, as soon as I get the feet squared away; fortunately, I've had a brainstorm on how to get that accomplished...PS
 
Mind sharing some of your molding techniques?

Not at all. Most important, if you want a good piece, you need to use good quality materials. That means clean clay, decent rubber and good resin. Admittedly, my standards are kinda high; I learned in a pro pattern shop. Anyway, my techniques...
Start by figuring out where your parting line is going to run. This is what everything keys off of. Set the piece up on a pedestal of clean clay, then build outward, following the parting line as much as possible. I have made a number of sculpting tools out of 1/4" dowels that are very useful in creating a nice clean parting line and mold surface. Also, make sure your keys are nice and sharp, so that they lock tightly; this minimizes parting line drift. If you're still having trouble getting a smooth surface, LIGHTLY smooth it with a paint brush and alcohol. Be careful; the alcohol will dissolve the clay if you overdo it.
That's the gist of it. Most of it is just things you learn through practice, though there's no better teacher than OJT(especially when you're getting paid for it!).
Will be doing more castings tomorrow; will take more pix. And yes, for the 99th time , I will be making copies available, as soon as I get the feet squared away; fortunately, I've had a brainstorm on how to get that accomplished...PS

Ah, so you used clay for it, that makes sense now! I'll have to try something like that next time I need to mold something. So far I've molded mostly heads, for which I make a one-piece mold and cut a slit in the back, so there's no seams anywhere else.

Thanks for the advice! :)
 
DSD-very cool site & tutorial.I picked up a few helpful tips 1st few pages I read.Thanks for posting.

My pleasure. the 2nd half of my first ever silicone mould should finish curing in an hour or so, so I'll be able to report back on how good that tutorial really is!
 
Update! I've made a few adjustments to the gun mold;added a couple more vents, and enlarged the vent at the back end of the stock into a new pour spout. Hopefully, this will eliminate some of the trapped air.I'm hoping to run some more casts tomorrow; my last few have been pretty good, now that I've worked out a procedure to get the teeth. Which raises a question-are those of you who want copies wanting them before or after I sculpt the feet? I have a design for the ankle that will produce a very life-like articulation, but it's going to take a bit of time to sculpt it up and mold the parts. Opinions, gentle-beings?...PS
 
Well w.m , I'd take your arm off for one of those headsculpts a.s.a.p ! Then , I'd be patient and wait for any further bits . ( I say this because I've had a Bossk waiting for some action for quite a while and I've been re-watching the second season of "Clone Wars" , featuring the cute little Trandoshian ). Seriously though , if people were impressed with the initial part(s), they'd be more than willing to shell out for any subsequent bits . :wink1:
 
I really like how your parts came out....I´d wait for all of the parts to be done before I`d get them...

Good job...I am looking forward to the whole "Set"...
 
I find it interesting that you're willing to sacrifice MY body-parts to get one...PS

As the originators of the language , we English sometimes have an unusual turn of phrase ! ( I'm sure you "colonial types" will get the hang of it eventually ).:rotfl
 
personally i would wait for everything to be done.............but more than that a rough estimate of the cost of the kit would be beneficial to all and probably give you an idea of the amount of raw material you would need to purchase depending on serious buyers.
 
The Predator body would be too big for the character; he's about 6' in the film(slightly taller than Boba Fett). I'm putting mine on a Buck, which has the appropriately slender build. Haven't had much chance to work on him lately as my workspace has gotten rather cluttered. Also, I'm still working out the feet...PS
 
As it's been a while, I figured an update was due, even though not much has been physically happening. I've been stymied by the problem of an articulated ankle for the figure, but inspiration hit a few weeks ago and I now have it pretty well figured out.I'm going to base it on the universal joint(as in a car transmission). Just have to make up a concept prototype. I'm kind of stoked over it. I've also finally got Slave Leia moving along as well. Xmas doldrums are officially over I think...PS
 
Well started a similar project today with an improvement of Bossk. Originally intended to use a HT Pred body but alas that`s to broad for a fit so I went with the Majestics Capt Apollo (BSG) body I had kicking around. The fore arms pop off (added bonus) to supliment with the Hasbro Bossk fore arms (you need drill a hole for the socket to securley connect with and this gives Bossk swival fore arms as an added bonus) and the Hasbro head pops straight onto the neck post of this body (yet to work on the legs/feet).
The added height and articulation is fantastic with this body switch though I am curious to see how you give articulated feet to Bossk.

I am thinking of switching some parts (for the added look as yours has) for the GG bust if/when I get one depending on costs.

I`m sorting out the vest at the moment for a better fit but the flightsuit seems to fit nicely.
 
Update! My proof of concept for the ankle seems to be right on. After months of wrestling with it, I hit on a slight mod of the ankle on the figure that started this fiasco, the most recent Hasblo 3 3/4"version, which is one joint away from outstanding. Now all I have to do is lay on the wax and start scratchin'!...PS
 
Any updates on this one yet Waxy?

:banana Those casts look great waxy! Can't wait to see old lizard-face when you put him together and slap some paint on.

Mind sharing some of your molding techniques? The arm molds are very nicely shaped, how did you do that? Like how did you get it to form such nice, smooth curves? I've been having some molding trouble lately, need some good advice.

Looking forward to seeing how that ankle joint turns out waxy!


"Waxy"? This is starting to be a trend...PS


:lol What, you didn't notice before?

I thought you would say something if it bothered you.

:rolleyes: I think when I first showed up here, people called me "Dude P" which, when read aloud, just sounds like "Dude pee." I said something about it right away...


ANYWAY... Just let me know if it bothers you Waxy.
 
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