Could you give us a run down on what you had to do to achieve this? Prep, etc. Even just a link if you have one. It would be greatly appreciated!
Sure thing.
Painting this armor is no different in any way than painting full size 1:1 Beskar/Mando armor. And there are scores of how-to's on Youtube with really thorough walk through's. Here's a summary...
1. Gently sand all the armor pieces with a fine grit sandpaper, like a 3000 grit. to remove any surface texture from the weathering applied by Hot Toys. You don't need to remove the weathering entirely, just any surface texture so you can get a smooth finish.
2. Tape off any places you don't want paint, such as the connection socket in the helmet, or the pegs for the forearm swappable rockets. Once you layer on all the paint and clear coats, it becomes thick enough that it may hinder all the friction fit elements. So you want to protect those connection points, plus they're not visible anyways, so no need to paint them.
3. Airbrush on several coats of black primer. Let it cure for several days, then lightly sand it with 3000 grit just to rid any bumps or texture left by the paint.
4. Airbrush on a 2k Clear Coat (I used SMS 2k Clear Diamond). Let it cure for a full week. Then wetsand and polish until you get a super smooth mirror like finish.
5. Now it's time for Alumaluster. Airbrush on aiming for about 70% opacity. That's what gives the armor it's darker steel/aluminum look. Now for the highlights (on the ears, rear helmet vent, mudhorn signet) apply it to 100% opaque. Let it cure for several days.
6. Time for the final coat of 2k Clear Coat to seal it all down and protect that metallic finish.
7. Weather as you like (I chose to keep my clean for now) with oil paints, like raw umber or burnt sienna.