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Wow that's a lot of sandpapers Barry! I just use 1200 and 2000 for my customs.


Sometimes a few are all you need.
Because i do a lot of scratchbuilding, i need to be able to work with coarse all the way up to ultra fine wet and dry.
I actually have a lot more grades than that now, but don't have a current pic of them all. I sometimes use a local vacforming company to make vacform mouldings of my pieces. And if the vacform needs to be used as a clear canopy, the surface of the piece needs to be glass smooth. That means working with wet and dry all the way up to 3000 grit(Which, to the touch, does not feel like sandpaper at all), and then rubbing with polishing paste and a polishing cloth.
It's the best way to go from this:

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To this:

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To this:

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To this:

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Yeah, I've seen your work area on Youtube before, Barry. It's nothing short of impressive. :clap

If I'm sculpting hair using epoxy, will 1200 do fine? Plus what grade do I need to smoothen a primed headsculpt, while we're on the subject.

I recently bought a Christopher Reeve body to use on my Solid Snake figure but I had to saw off the ribs and cut off the rubber below the neck, now it fits fine. It pains me to ruin such a beautiful body. :lol :slap
 
Yeah, I've seen your work area on Youtube before, Barry. It's nothing short of impressive. :clap

Thanks. I made the entire thing myself in a spare couple of days at work. Built all the benches and shelves. I asked for the wood and supplies for christmas that year, and spent the beginning couple of weeks in January building it all.

If I'm sculpting hair using epoxy, will 1200 do fine? Plus what grade do I need to smoothen a primed headsculpt, while we're on the subject.

For the hair, i would only sand if there's an imperfection apparent after the epoxy cures. Otherwise, try and get it 100% while it's still workable.
As for the primed headsculpt, i'd use wet and dry, in a very high grade. Above 2000, or even just a polishing cloth(and still using water). With a polishing cloth, you can feel the contours under your fingers and work it softly to remove any imperfections slowly.

I recently bought a Christopher Reeve body to use on my Solid Snake figure but I had to saw off the ribs and cut off the rubber below the neck, now it fits fine. It pains me to ruin such a beautiful body. :lol :slap

:horror
There wasn't another body you could have used, lol?
 
Thanks. I made the entire thing myself in a spare couple of days at work. Built all the benches and shelves. I asked for the wood and supplies for christmas that year, and spent the beginning couple of weeks in January building it all.



For the hair, i would only sand if there's an imperfection apparent after the epoxy cures. Otherwise, try and get it 100% while it's still workable.
As for the primed headsculpt, i'd use wet and dry, in a very high grade. Above 2000, or even just a polishing cloth(and still using water). With a polishing cloth, you can feel the contours under your fingers and work it softly to remove any imperfections slowly.



:horror
There wasn't another body you could have used, lol?

Thank you so much Barry!

No, there wasn't another body (at the time) I could use, I'm well aware on how much it would be upsetting for you to hear that I dissected a perfectly good Reeve body and pretty much rendered it unusable for anything else, so I was hesitant to let you know. :(
 
Thank you so much Barry!

No, there wasn't another body (at the time) I could use, I'm well aware on how much it would be upsetting for you to hear that I dissected a perfectly good Reeve body and pretty much rendered it unusable for anything else, so I was hesitant to let you know. :(


Not at all.
You paid for it, it was yours to do with as you saw fit.
When i bought my Avengers Hawkeye, he was already going for more than double on the used market(even though i found him for retail), and i was upset with the lack of poseability in his arms for holding a proper firing stance with his bow. I stripped the figure and transplanted on a set of TTM20 arms. Loads of people thought i was nuts. But it's my figure, and i prefer the look with beefier arms that can hold a pose.
If you want to buy a Reeve body and cut parts off, that's for you to decide!
I've also done a few customs that needed a face dremelled away. There are probably members on here that groan seeing those heads "destroyed" in the service of a custom.
So, yeah, go ahead and alter any figure you like. Although i will lament the passing of a Reeve body, i will still enjoy the custom that resulted.



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Sweet cream on an ice cream sandwich, Barry! Those are insanely awesome! :clap

I need to PM you one of these days on creating the green Fortress of Solitude mods, I have 3 sets of them now. :lol
 
Sweet cream on an ice cream sandwich, Barry! Those are insanely awesome! :clap

Thanks. The cut heads are just to fit into masks. The latest Tony Stark head is readily available and easy to dremel and shoehorn into any of the IM masks. See the pics below. The Reeve one was for a hair resculpt for a Clark Kent i made my Brother for christmas.
And the TTM guy with the damaged face was the basis of a three-piece series i started(But have yet to complete) of a young Jedi that was ambushed by his clones during Order-66, but who was able to escape with cover from his master and lived in hiding, starting off the rebellion(Kind of a Rahm Kota character). My intention with that one is to have an intermediate stage face with heavy scar tissue of it maybe a year later, with a bit longer hair, and a final third stage with either a topknot and beard, or just a goatee, but with a totally different costume as he wouldn't want to betray that he was once a Jedi. I made his lightsaber from Aluminium.

I need to PM you one of these days on creating the green Fortress of Solitude mods, I have 3 sets of them now. :lol

Sounds great.
Feel free to message me any time. My email is also in my sigline if you need to send images or something.
If i can help you out, i'll do my best!










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im going to be drilling the face in on my other raiden sculpt to put an led centered in it. im doing a closed mask custom where the bottom of it is lit up. im going to have to use putty to fill in the contours of his face then mold the mask to it to make a tight seal. then im going to strip the masks paint and do a 3 stage paint on it to trap the light with no seepage. i already know what i want to do but i need to stop going out and getting all banged up because my motivation has been lacking lately. i also promised you guys id be doing the illuminated spine too and havent gotten to that.

barry, i never visited your customs page. you have some impressive work my friend. youll have to fill me in (no pun intended) on what epoxies and putties you use because im new to the sculpting game and only know about milliput. i know ill be good at this stuff, im really eager to go full tilt on it. ever since ive quit smoking pot i feel like i can create anything! i need to hone this new found motivation and do some crazy stuff. that gold midas suit is going for big moneis right now. the kid that was selling his boss for $00 was selling his for $600 :rotfl

ryan, send those fortress of solitudes to me ill mod em up for you!
 
:lol
Barry does the best customs around, just look at his Youtube channel and his posts. :lecture

Thanks a lot!
I appreciate your kind words.


barry, i never visited your customs page. you have some impressive work my friend. youll have to fill me in (no pun intended) on what epoxies and putties you use because im new to the sculpting game and only know about milliput.

I mix between three fillers. For large areas, Isopon P38(Which is a bit like bondo), For hard wearing one off pieces, Green stuff and Aves(Which are both very much like Milliput), and Super Sculpey for extreme fine detail on a part which will likely be cast and reproduced in resin.

P38 is a two part car body filler and sets solid in about ten minutes.

Green stuffand Aves, like Milliput need to be worked quickly as you only have a few hours till they are solid.

Super sculpey is perfect for detail work where you want to take your time on a piece. Super Sculpey can only be hardened in the oven, so you could take days to finish the sculpt and only then harden it. It takes about thirty minutes in the oven at 100°C.
Some pics below of items i have sculpted in Super Sculpey.


i need to hone this new found motivation and do some crazy stuff. that gold midas suit is going for big moneis right now. the kid that was selling his boss for $00 was selling his for $600

Yeah. I got mine for christmas from my Brother. I'll never sell mine!

I made this from Aves:

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Here are pics of things i have made from Sculpey in the past:



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Kaminoan.jpg



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Hey guys! Not sure how excited you guys are for the Play Arts Big Boss figure ( I know some of you guys don't have too much love for Big Boss :lol ) but, I found one of the special edition ones: https://www.play-asia.com/metal-gea...le-limited-edition-paOS-13-49-en-70-7aq5.html

I managed to snag from someone in Japan for the PS4 version. I wanted to let fellow freaks know of this before it reaches scalper prices (the $200 is already high, the game is $29.99........:thud: )
 
Hey Guys,
Heads up! Apparently Ground Zeroes has leaked so if your afraid of spoilers like I am, then stay away from games forums etc..:wink1:
 
If someone else is bidding, i'll not bother. I'll leave you to it!
I added magnets onto the legs of my custom figure at work today so her SMG can attach to her thigh without too much fuss. I am going to do the same with a pistol on her right thigh at some point.




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You must DEFINETLY turn her into...
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