Sideshow 1/6 R2-D2
- Thread starter Jaycepticon
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Looking forward to it!
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Damn do I wish my R2 looked that good. The Sideshow piece is fairly nice but that paint job is outstanding. I'd love to be able to do something like that with mine.
parrasmaniac
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I don't get tired of looking at your R2.
After the shock seeing yor pics, I have stabilized, and I am able to make some questions:
how did you diminish the seams on the dome? and how did you get that metal look on it?
Will you be updating your collection video? that would be much appreciated.
Anyhow, thanks for sharing your great work!!
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Lol. That made My day.
For sanding out the seams I used a very fine steel wool. That works best because it conforms easier to the round contours of the dome and it leaves no real deep scratches.
I needed to redo the metal on the dome anyway to make it look anywhere near believable. Also, be sure to finish in a gloss varnish on every metal and every blue part. Use Vallejo Liquid Silver, Vallejo premium gloss varnish, 0000 steel wool and Tamiya silver weathering powder to polish the metal parts with. Once dry, use the same steel wool to lightly create the brushed metal effect.
Then a black and brown modelmates wash thinned down to make it subtle and finally weathering powders.
Now this is important: do not be afraid to screw up. I work in many layers, and always take time to judge my work. Any mistakes are easily fixed with either the steel wool or some very nonaggressive air brush cleaner fluid.
I will surely be doing a new video when I have finished my big diorama
For sanding out the seams I used a very fine steel wool. That works best because it conforms easier to the round contours of the dome and it leaves no real deep scratches.
I needed to redo the metal on the dome anyway to make it look anywhere near believable. Also, be sure to finish in a gloss varnish on every metal and every blue part. Use Vallejo Liquid Silver, Vallejo premium gloss varnish, 0000 steel wool and Tamiya silver weathering powder to polish the metal parts with. Once dry, use the same steel wool to lightly create the brushed metal effect.
Then a black and brown modelmates wash thinned down to make it subtle and finally weathering powders.
Now this is important: do not be afraid to screw up. I work in many layers, and always take time to judge my work. Any mistakes are easily fixed with either the steel wool or some very nonaggressive air brush cleaner fluid.
I will surely be doing a new video when I have finished my big diorama
Last edited:
parrasmaniac
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thank you! can't wait for that video. Superb work and tips!
Mad Old Lu
Super Freak
Fantastic work, Jazz! 
ebor
Super Freak
Eagerly awaiting your video Jazz. Your weathering on R2 and C3PO are top tier work.
Chakaman
Super Freak
This sounds great Jazz. Looking forward to your video. 
KoruptData
Freaked Out
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I got this little guy last week and I'm having trouble getting him to stand straight up on just the two legs. It either wants to rock foward or back. Every time I open my Detolf he falls one way or the other when trying to balance him straight up. I have resorted to having his 3 legs out. Any way to remedy this?
Kamandi
Super Freak
Place Quake Hold under his feet. That way if it pivots too far it won't take a serious tumble.
Natedog
Super Freak
One thing that has bugged me from day 1 with this guy is the green LED in the back being way too bright. If you have yours displayed on a shelf with a back wall, you know what I'm taking about. The whole shelf flashes green. All of the LEDs are too bright IMO but the green was by far the worst.
Today I fixed it. Anyone can do it if its bothering you and its FREE (assuming you have some green paint)
You need to take the head apart, but that's all I did was put a dab of dark green paint on top of the LED. The light still shines through but the paint acts as a filter. Its now roughly the same brightness as the yellow beside it.
No pics because the camera still makes it look super bright but to the naked eye, its much better.
Just thought I'd share.
Today I fixed it. Anyone can do it if its bothering you and its FREE (assuming you have some green paint)
You need to take the head apart, but that's all I did was put a dab of dark green paint on top of the LED. The light still shines through but the paint acts as a filter. Its now roughly the same brightness as the yellow beside it.
No pics because the camera still makes it look super bright but to the naked eye, its much better.
Just thought I'd share.
Love this set. If HT ever makes some I doubt I'll pass them up but no matter what they do I can't imagine them making an easier way to turn the lights on and off than SS did. Great design.
Lejuan
Super Freak
Has anyone found that replacing the stock batteries gets more life out of the lights? Does longer battery life depend on always switching the lights off after use?
When mine went dead after a very short time I didn't bother replacing them.
When mine went dead after a very short time I didn't bother replacing them.
Raiders March
I shouldn't have bought that!
It's hard to say. My batteries lasted a few months with the switch on, I got r2 ex upon release. In my dads, which was purchased around last march, were still working when I removed them for him at christmas. So they can vary alot, switch on or not.
Have'nt tried other batteries yet, like others, worried about possible leakage
Mine has this too! Any good solutions? Could you somehow tighten the ankles?
Lejuan
Super Freak
Thanks mate, that's way better than the week I got out of mine. I could be exaggerating, but it definitely was well short of a month.
I buy this guy at the end of december, and SS send me a piece of sh**, broken a part of the dome, glue residues and scratches, the arms with issues of paint, the lighsaber no have magnet... very disappointed.
I open a Returns & Exchanges ticket
I open a Returns & Exchanges ticket
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Shanester
Super Freak
You definitely got a bad one Insomnio. Good luck on the replacement. They should do a total switch out for you.
As for batteries, I got my R2 straight away upon release and my batteries are still good. I do leave the switch in the off position though. I never turn on the lights unless someone asks to see them. I suppose I should take the batteries out at some point.
As for batteries, I got my R2 straight away upon release and my batteries are still good. I do leave the switch in the off position though. I never turn on the lights unless someone asks to see them. I suppose I should take the batteries out at some point.
My batteries also only lasted maybe two weeks with sporadic use. I never replaced them (also due to leakage fears after Probe Droid went septic) but should give it a shot. The other problem is that type of button battery is pretty expensive if you buy the name brand - probably the reason SSC used the dollar store generic type.
And regarding the poor R2 QC above, I always think it's a bit risky waiting to buy a figure that's had some QC problems because you have a higher chance of receiving a figure someone else returned to SSC already. It's a good question what SSC actually does with returned figures that have more subtle QC issues (i.e. aesthetic or "minor" issues) - I assume many are just put back into stock in the hope they sell to a less picky customer.
And regarding the poor R2 QC above, I always think it's a bit risky waiting to buy a figure that's had some QC problems because you have a higher chance of receiving a figure someone else returned to SSC already. It's a good question what SSC actually does with returned figures that have more subtle QC issues (i.e. aesthetic or "minor" issues) - I assume many are just put back into stock in the hope they sell to a less picky customer.
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