View attachment 483920
I honestly cannot see HT passing up on a concept Iron Dr Strange exclusive. Only new part would be the time stone chest piece. The rest would be a mix of stuff already made.
THERE'S A THIGH GAP SOLUTION!!!
After my last post about the thigh gaps, the engineer in me couldn't resist having a look at the issue more closely to see if something could be done about it. It turns out there IS a way to significantly reduce the gaps, and it's remarkably simple (but not for the faint of heart, lol)! I popped the legs off their ball joints (I removed the armor covering the leg batteries first), whereupon I discovered that the leg ball joint posts are ratcheted and move independently. They're quite stiff, but they DO ratchet. Unfortunately, they only ratcheted downward, as there was no clearance above them in the plastic pelvic wall. I carefully (& SLOWLY) drilled very small holes above the posts to determine what was in that area. Upon discovering nothing critical, I gradually enlarged the holes & cleaned out enough plastic to allow the posts to ratchet upward. Now I can pull the legs down as desired when poses require more clearance, but I can close up those gaps for museum poses. And because the posts are ratcheted, the legs stay in whatever position you pick. The first 4 pics below show what I did & the last 2 demonstrate the results.
Ball joint posts in their lowest positions & showing added clearance:
View attachment 483891
View attachment 483892
Ball joint posts in their new highest positions:
View attachment 483893
View attachment 483894
Here are the legs in their lowest positions:
View attachment 483895
Here they are in their highest positions:
View attachment 483896
Woah!!!!!! Ingenious work!!! I laud your curiosity and results
Though I could not imagine doing any type of heavy modifications such as yours on my figs
THERE'S A THIGH GAP SOLUTION!!!
After my last post about the thigh gaps, the engineer in me couldn't resist having a look at the issue more closely to see if something could be done about it. It turns out there IS a way to significantly reduce the gaps, and it's remarkably simple (but not for the faint of heart, lol)! I popped the legs off their ball joints (I removed the armor covering the leg batteries first), whereupon I discovered that the leg ball joint posts are ratcheted and move independently. They're quite stiff, but they DO ratchet. Unfortunately, they only ratcheted downward, as there was no clearance above them in the plastic pelvic wall. I carefully (& SLOWLY) drilled very small holes above the posts to determine what was in that area. Upon discovering nothing critical, I gradually enlarged the holes & cleaned out enough plastic to allow the posts to ratchet upward. Now I can pull the legs down as desired when poses require more clearance, but I can close up those gaps for museum poses. And because the posts are ratcheted, the legs stay in whatever position you pick. The first 4 pics below show what I did & the last 2 demonstrate the results.
Ball joint posts in their lowest positions & showing added clearance:
View attachment 483891
View attachment 483892
Ball joint posts in their new highest positions:
View attachment 483893
View attachment 483894
Here are the legs in their lowest positions:
View attachment 483895
Here they are in their highest positions:
View attachment 483896
You da real MVP Buff! Still wouldn't buy this fig though...far too much hassle to make it look acceptable. For the price point, that's def not acceptable. But I tip my hat to you for your ingenuity!
Thanks G. Somehow I knew that would be your reaction. Once I was done I thought to myself, "I know one person who will definitely never do this" - especially since you never bought it! But now when I look at him on the shelf my eyes aren't immediately drawn to the top of his legs, so I'm happy I took the time to figure it out.
THERE'S A THIGH GAP SOLUTION!!!
After my last post about the thigh gaps, the engineer in me couldn't resist having a look at the issue more closely to see if something could be done about it. It turns out there IS a way to significantly reduce the gaps, and it's remarkably simple (but not for the faint of heart, lol)! I popped the legs off their ball joints (I removed the armor covering the leg batteries first), whereupon I discovered that the leg ball joint posts are ratcheted and move independently. They're quite stiff, but they DO ratchet. Unfortunately, they only ratcheted downward, as there was no clearance above them in the plastic pelvic wall. I carefully (& SLOWLY) drilled very small holes above the posts to determine what was in that area. Upon discovering nothing critical, I gradually enlarged the holes & cleaned out enough plastic to allow the posts to ratchet upward. Now I can pull the legs down as desired when poses require more clearance, but I can close up those gaps for museum poses. And because the posts are ratcheted, the legs stay in whatever position you pick. The first 4 pics below show what I did & the last 2 demonstrate the results.
Ball joint posts in their lowest positions & showing added clearance:
View attachment 483891
View attachment 483892
Ball joint posts in their new highest positions:
View attachment 483893
View attachment 483894
Here are the legs in their lowest positions:
View attachment 483895
Here they are in their highest positions:
View attachment 483896
How tall is he next to other figures now?
How tall is he next to other figures now?
That set is pretty inaccurate. Especially the Hand blaster parts. Wish someone did an accurate version of it.
Sorry, didn't see this yesterday. I just got this guy set up again in a flying pose (not easy with those wings), so I'm not going to take him down anytime soon and put him in a lineup. But if you look at this comparison (not mine) to the Mk VII and imagine shortening the Mk L by the hip gaps you'll get a good idea. He's still plenty tall - with the hip gaps minimized he's now @ 1/8" shorter than the diecast VII, on par with the 46 & 47 and still taller than the 42, 43 and 45.
View attachment 484090
The Rear Floaties are larger, the middle section doesn't light up but only the tiny top bit lights up. As for the Hand Blasters, tons of missing detail and the hands slot through them more.
View attachment 485076
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