I just got back from this. I thought it was pretty damn awesome, particularly in relation to the pathetic Superman V Batman. It juggled a lot of moving pieces way better than Age of Ultron did IMO. Unexpected standout to me was Ant-Man, who was great. Even though we already had a pseudo comedian on the team in Stark, Rudd is funnier and, of course, lighter. Spider-Man totally hit all the right notes for me. Loved it. I was worried this Spidey may not be as good in the suit as Garfield was in the last film, but I think he's there. Black Panther was also very good, and has me really interested in his solo movie.
One other thing that surprised me was how relatable Tony was. Going in, I assumed it would be like the comic, where he's (and Mr. Fantastic) pretty much an ass from day one, and is obviously meant to be the antagonist that you root against (coming from a left-wing European like Mark Millar, not surprising). Here, you root against him somewhat, but can totally understand where he's coming from, and the filmmakers took steps to show you how thoughtful he was, and how he really did want to avoid conflict with Cap.
Two things I will disagree with Fabio about: 1) Zemo's motivations make perfect sense to me. Maybe it's a bit cliche', but what matters more to someone than their family? Particularly their child? Is someone craving power or pursuing some ideology really a more compelling motvation? Same with Stark going into a blind rage over the death of his parents. This is what matters to people.
I love that Zemo survives on, also, to fight another day--with the MASTERS OF MOTHER****ING EVIL!!!
2) The letter at the end wasn't surprising at all to me. As Gaspar points out, it came from Cap. Despite everything that happened, this felt totally in character to me. Now, if it came from Stark, that would have been another issue.