Hot Toys – MMS132 - Iron Man 2: Mark VI full spec and pics

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My latest Mark VI photo shoot...

MarkVI_3op.jpg

Damn, dude!

Damn!

:clap
 
looks really good, i wish i still had my dslr but i had to sell it. :( I think I am going to sell my mark vi also, actually thinking about selling all my iron men. i have iv, vi, mech test, and secret project, but I only need one of them.
 
The magnetic face plate wont stick to my battle damage helmet anymore.

It keeps falling off. Argh! Guess I'll just glue his face over lol
 
looks really good, i wish i still had my dslr but i had to sell it. :( I think I am going to sell my mark vi also, actually thinking about selling all my iron men. i have iv, vi, mech test, and secret project, but I only need one of them.

My advice....keep the Mk.IV and sell everything else.
 
Is it rude to ask about your photography techniques? I'm guessing you used a light box? I've got a rather dinky one that I don't use very often, but that's probably because I don't really know HOW to use it effectively.

That's why I usually go for hard shadows and dramatic lighting. I'm also kinda lazy when it comes to the more action-oriented poses. Below is a good example of what I consider to be one of my better photos, but it's obviously not that impressive compared to what you and some other posters are doing.

If it matters, I use a Nikon D80 and I've got several lenses, but for most of my action figure shots I use a 60mm Nikkor macro lens. I like that it brings out the detail but I'm starting to think that it is limiting me to taking only "portrait-type" photos.

(I know the photo is off-topic but it best illustrates what I'm talking about)

6786665219_b05a3cd7b4_b.jpg
[/url] jack sparrow 002 by zipflint, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Is it rude to ask about your photography techniques? I'm guessing you used a light box? I've got a rather dinky one that I don't use very often, but that's probably because I don't really know HOW to use it effectively.

That's why I usually go for hard shadows and dramatic lighting. I'm also kinda lazy when it comes to the more action-oriented poses. Below is a good example of what I consider to be one of my better photos, but it's obviously not that impressive compared to what you and some other posters are doing.

If it matters, I use a Nikon D80 and I've got several lenses, but for most of my action figure shots I use a 60mm Nikkor macro lens. I like that it brings out the detail but I'm starting to think that it is limiting me to taking only "portrait-type" photos.

(I know the photo is off-topic but it best illustrates what I'm talking about)


na man, i just started photographing figures recently, i do have a tent but i find it rather useless and just takes up alot of space. I just never directly light my figure because it always gives it a flat and "toy" feeling i guess.
here's my basic set up, nothing facy
05022012388.jpg

just a tripod, a black background and 2 ikea desk lamps. the lights are almost facing away from the figure and barely lights it and i find that suits me quite well.
Since you have a SLR you can play with the settings to get a decent result. I just adjusted the levels in photoshop after i'm done and add the chest and eye lights.
 
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Cool man, thanks for the tips! And I dig the simple set up. Seeing that photo just made me realize that I could solve a lot of my lighting issues just by using two lights set at subject-level. That never occurred to me, and no I'm not kidding.
So thanks!
 
Cool man, thanks for the tips! And I dig the simple set up. Seeing that photo just made me realize that I could solve a lot of my lighting issues just by using two lights set at subject-level. That never occurred to me, and no I'm not kidding.
So thanks!

no worries, glad that helped
 
so here is how i did my knee joint iron man m6 fix. It wasn't easy so please bare in mind that If you are not gentle with your figure its best advised that you do not try and open it. I will not bear any damages should you follow my method. I'm only sharing how i fixed mine. :peace



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so this is the first pics & descript of the leg area which is affected circled in blue. That's the spot where i heard something jiggling in the knee area. The knee joint was so loose that if u swing the leg it would move effortlessly. To open those screws i tried using a normal screw driver (then I used electric screwdriver) on the knee area but the screw didn't get a grip on the screwdriver to come off completely. So my first suspicion was that the screw grain on the hole that you put the screw in has been broken.

so my next option to get inside the knee joint was to go through a different way starting from the thigh area. That's where things started moving. So when I got the thigh area opened it was easier to open the knee caps.



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opening the thigh area was a bit hard because i didn't understand how it was attached together. Only when I started inspecting carefully did i notice that there was a plastic joint glued to the back of the thigh (numbered 9 on the above pic). Slowly prying it out with a small flat screwdriver, it finally managed to open. It was tight because it was also glued together.

after that it was mostly unscrewing the screws exposed ( on the thigh area i took out the plastic plugs, no 10 on the pic above, using only an extra small flat screwdriver)

on the knee area theres also a plastic knee cap joint glued to the main knee area so I had to pry it out gently (no 7 on the above pic). After that it was easier to take a look at the damage done on the knee. From there my suspicions were confirmed that the knee screw hole had already been broken (there were 2 screw holes on the knee, both were broken). So since its broken it was a no-brainer to just pry open the knee.

the picture below shows how the screw holes that the screws were supposed to go into had been broken off cleanly. those two small circles below the broken screw holes are washers that's supposed to be attached to the joints connected on the thigh and calf area.



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All i had to do was superglue those broken joints together ( adding only a little bit of superglue about a drop for each joint) and let them dry first. After it was completely dry i tested its strength and to me it was strong enough to get it to hold the screws in place when i get them all back together.

after that was done I attached them together in proper order ( starting from no 1 -10 just like the pic posted below)



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oh and the only problem i had getting them all together again was that the hinge that was attached to the calf area (which is supposed to be attached to the knee joint) needs to be moded. I didn't want to open the calf area because it looked too fragile and it might break so all I did was cut a small amount of plastic (using a fire heated flat screwdriver to melt a part of the plastic, i cut about 1/4 from the hinge) as drawn on the picture below. This was done to make sure it can be connected onto the knee joint properly without force.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

if any of you have the same issue as i do, don't hesitate to refer to my technique...but please do it carefully and inspect each connecting parts carefully. Best tip from me is to use a proper electric screwdriver so you could get an even force to open those really tight screws..I had trouble using normal screws and im afraid physical force from it might have caused my knee joint to become looser. Hope this helps! :peace

edit: while i was prying out the knee cap and the back thigh that was glued to the main parts I did it with little force. Unfortunately for me , a bit part of the knee cap joint was broken off from the inside. Luckily it can still be glued back in place and unnoticeable from the outside. Be sure to be very careful to not break those areas like I did on mine!

Thanks for the pics and descript. in aiding my leg dissection for repair... however the cutting of 1/4 of the joint was not needed as with some prying and proper positioning you can slot the joint in. By cutting a portion of the ring you actually loose some contact with the rubber o-ring that provide resistance.

p.s the lower joint was the broken one on mine, Where you need to slot-ine with the 1/4 cut mod.

My dissected Mk. 6 leg:
IMG_6317.jpg
 
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I just gotta tell someone this...I've been on cloud 9!

I basically got a MKVI today for about 60 bucks, counting the Marvel Legends Face-off Cap, Red Skull, and Marel Select Hulk I traded for him and my orignal investment in them.

This figure is awesome. I was very worried about pink panties syndrome, but the figure and all accessories are in perfect condition.

It's nice to have him finally standing next to Cap and Thor. Can't wait to get Hulk in 1/6th to add to the Marvel collection, and I'm looking forward to seeing the new 1/4th versions of the Avengers. I figure I might as well get the new suits in 1/4th as long as the figures are worth it. My main Hot Toys collection will always be 1/6th (I hope lol), but I wouldn't mind some quarter scale figures of my four favorite Avengers.
 
any good tip on how to remove the normal arm for the battle-damaged one? or do i just have to pull real hard (i hate that) =(
 
I've seen all the pics and this is an amazing IM figure!!!! But I did notice some discussion concerning a possible re-release of the Mark VI considering it's featured in the Avengers. I know this is all speculation but knowing Hot Toys and the trend or re-leaseing olders products...could this happen sooner or later? I know the Mark VII will make it's debut in this movie and we might only see the Mark VI for short time on screen. Should I go out and get this IM figure now or bet on HT re-releasing this in the future. Part on me can't see how HT can improve on this great figure.......any suggestions/thoughts? I see the prices are averaging near $300 and I want to get in before it's a $350-$400 figure. Thanks.
 
It's always better to avoid above retail prices, so just wait i guess :)

There's no certainty though that the battle damaged pieces will make the rerelease
 
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