1/6 Hot Toys - MMS 237D06 - Iron Man 2: 1/6th scale Whiplash Mark II Collectible Figure

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Yeah it's really good stuff, actually Motux's post gave the idea of where to get it from. I did it on my figure and love it a lot. The pics are on this thread if you want to take a look, totally brings this thing to life! definitely worth trying.
 
el wire has a longer lifespan then standard led and light bulbs. It's amazing stuff. I've been using it for ten years. I still have the first sample kit I ordered in 2004 and it still looks new. It's just recently started to catch on a bit.

it's a shame they don't use this stuff for lightsabers.
 
Yeah it would be cool. Not sure how it would work though.

I think they could if they just designed it to be compatible. i mean, just run a "wire" with no flexibility through the hilt of the saber, boom. Wire could either come out the bottom or side of hilt to be tucked away from sight just like the whiplash mod.

Replacing the arm on Kylo Ren is annoying. And since he's gotta have a special arm with attached saber just to have illumination anyway, i'd rather there just be one arm, full articulation, and 2 sabers, one non-lit and one special EL saber that you tuck the wire away. The EL saber might not look great when it's off, but the only reason to use it is for it's light up functions. Way less inconvenient and more practical.

Curious what might not work about it.

Anyway, I got myself a set and they look really good. Thanks for the tip Motuxmen! Although I do recommend getting maybe 1.6ft or 1.7ft of wire instead of 1.5ft, it comes up a little short when trying to get the full length of the whips.

Has anyone tried this with chase EL wires?
 
The el wire doesn't come in a solid. Though I'm sure it could be done. But you have the same issue. Which is power. It still needs to be hooked to a power source. The whiplash mod works because it's a one off mod and the figure has lots of wire coming out of the arm. That set up just doesn't work with Kylo.

There's not a better way to power the saber until battery tech improves. Doesn't matter if you use led or EL or Cathodes or whatever. Can't just have a wire sticking out the side of the saber and "hide" it away. Just look at the reactions to minor things with these figures. People would freak out.

Your just substitute EL light for Led and you still have the exact same problems.
 
I think it depends on what we deem acceptable and for the appropriate figure. EL or LED isn't the issue, as you mentioned, it's having an attached power source.

As far as light sabers are considered, I do think EL or cathode produces a better look (battery powered or not). However, I think a cleverly hidden wire is much less frustrating than having to replace an entire arm, where you risk damaging both figure and fabric. Most of the time, you'll be posing them without the electronics because we know what happens if you just leave the batteries in. So you can still have a wireless option, just no light.

For me, the only time I really make use of the electronics is when I'm photographing them, which I can compose the wires out of the shot.

There is a trade off, and it's subjective of course.

I just picked up a SOAP Reactor, mostly because the batteries kept running out while I was posing and photographing. The wires will be slightly more challenging for battery hungry figures like Iron Man.

I'm not saying it wouldn't take some interesting engineering, but I do think there is a better way.
 
The wire is cheap. You can get it for a couple bucks a foot. But you need the adapter and whatnot. Can't just use the wire. If you search EL wire in this thread I've listed ten or so sites that sell it.
 
I think it depends on what we deem acceptable and for the appropriate figure. EL or LED isn't the issue, as you mentioned, it's having an attached power source.

As far as light sabers are considered, I do think EL or cathode produces a better look (battery powered or not). However, I think a cleverly hidden wire is much less frustrating than having to replace an entire arm, where you risk damaging both figure and fabric. Most of the time, you'll be posing them without the electronics because we know what happens if you just leave the batteries in. So you can still have a wireless option, just no light.

For me, the only time I really make use of the electronics is when I'm photographing them, which I can compose the wires out of the shot.

There is a trade off, and it's subjective of course.

I just picked up a SOAP Reactor, mostly because the batteries kept running out while I was posing and photographing. The wires will be slightly more challenging for battery hungry figures like Iron Man.

I'm not saying it wouldn't take some interesting engineering, but I do think there is a better way.

Hot toys spent months engineering and designing the light saber arms and the way they work. They couldn't find a better way that didn't add substantial cost. Swap out parts are a huge part of hot toys so there's no reason they would not use it. The only other option they found and tried was a swap out hand section that hooks to internal wires. But it was just to prone to breaking. Exposed or swap out wires are just something that has proven to much of a failure rate. People hook it up wrong or break it and then ask for refunds ect. The way it is now is the best option for the price. If you want a figure that costs significantly more they can do pretty much anything. But it's not just about can they do it.

And I can't see any way anyone would be ok with having a wire you could see. When people flip out about the gap between an upper lip and nose, or the cape material or the hundreds of other little things you see brought up as issues. It's easy to say there's a better way.
 
https://thatscoolwire.com
https://www.adafruit.com/category/78
LiveWire El Wire | The #1 EL Wire and LED Wire Solution

I've ordered from all three sites. No issues. You need an inverter. Two lengths of wire about 1.5 ft long each. A splitter. Those are the basics. You can get a lot more complex if you want.

You can make it turn on by sound, or pulse with music. You can make it chase or anything else. Run on aa battery or wall plug in. There's a lot of options. But for 4 bucks it's probably just a small length of wire and you need all the other stuff. You can get a starter kit for around 20 bucks. That's the price to expect to pay.
 
That's one long strand and a battery inverter. You would have 9ft of el wire light up (you have to solder the end of u cut it) at once. It wouldn't look right. And you would need to run one long strand between both hands.

You can use it, but I wouldn't. Won't look much better l, if at all, then the stock look.

To do it right you need two strands about 1.5ft each. A splitter, so both wires are powered. An inverter. And if you don't want to run on battery's a wall adapter. Your money, so spend it how you want. But I'd rather spend 20-25 bucks and get something perfect then spend 4 bucks and think it meh.

And notice the shipping is free, only if you use the 45 day and no tracking option. If you want it before mid March it's probably going to run 10 bucks. So your not saving as much as it appears.
 
Hot toys spent months engineering and designing the light saber arms and the way they work. They couldn't find a better way that didn't add substantial cost. Swap out parts are a huge part of hot toys so there's no reason they would not use it. The only other option they found and tried was a swap out hand section that hooks to internal wires. But it was just to prone to breaking. Exposed or swap out wires are just something that has proven to much of a failure rate. People hook it up wrong or break it and then ask for refunds ect. The way it is now is the best option for the price. If you want a figure that costs significantly more they can do pretty much anything. But it's not just about can they do it.

And I can't see any way anyone would be ok with having a wire you could see. When people flip out about the gap between an upper lip and nose, or the cape material or the hundreds of other little things you see brought up as issues. It's easy to say there's a better way.

There can be many reasons why they move forward with a design choice and it's not always the best. Regardless, I'm not ranting on Hot Toys mindlessly, I'm merely bringing up that their current design can be improved and opening up the forum to ideas. One can't say they couldn't find a better way... I mean, look at Thanos's Throne. That was just a bad decision to put the switches inside the battery compartment. Making Mark 42's and 43's helmets switches on the tops of the head instead of the face, also not the right decision.

With Whiplash, we are modding him with these ELs that could have been used instead of LEDs in the first place, and still been battery powered.

Don't get me wrong, I still think the arm swap was a clever solution for the light sabers, I was impressed when I first saw it. But I'm open to seeing what other ways they can improve, such as induction. After receiving my Kylo, the arm swapping was not nearly as easy as I had hoped. I'm afraid of ruining the fabric if I swap it too much, and turning on the switch isn't the easiest through the clothes. Because of that, I would be okay with a wire of some sort...

Budget Stark has a video of the Soap Reactor which makes HTs wired. Yes, the back can be a mess, but again, for photographers, this is absolutely fine because I can compose the shot properly and I don't have to worry about wearing down the batteries or turning on each individual switch between breaks.

When a figure is ready to go back in the cage, you take off all the wires much like I would take out the batteries, wouldn't want to risk leakage.

Again, it's a subjective trade-off, while you can't imagine anyone that would be fine with wires, SOAP Studios is betting their business on it.

FYI to anyone interested in the SOAP Reactor, get the 10v power adapter (sold separately) the same time you get the full kit, otherwise you are paying a ridiculous shipping fee later. SOAP Studios is the only one that makes a compatible 10v adapter. Otherwise you can use a universal one, but none are exactly 10v. I am running mine at 7.5 volts.
 
Here's the set I was looking at. Seems like you get everything you need:

Amazon.com - 9ft Blue Neon Glowing Strobing Electroluminescent Wire (El Wire) - String Lights

That's way too long, and you only get one wire.

Again, using Motuxmen's suggestions, I ordered this and this is exactly what you get:

Items Ordered:
-----------------------------------------------------
(1) Kit-Builder -
P3-EWBTF-2.6 1.5ft. Blue Green (wire #1)
P3-EWBTF-2.6 1.5ft. Blue Green (wire #2)
Splitter: SPL2-5
Wire Connectors (2)
power: 3v-100cm-200cm-BP-WK
(batteries included)

Total = $32.57

IMG_6379.JPGIMG_6380.JPGIMG_6391.JPG

As you see in the last image, my 1.5ft wire is just a little shorter than the whip, so I suggest getting 1.6ft or 1.7ft of wire each instead. Wish I had a little more than less (I should have double checked the measurement!). Oh well, took one for the team.

and no, I'm not missing a thumb... :)
 
That's one long strand and a battery inverter. You would have 9ft of el wire light up (you have to solder the end of u cut it) at once. It wouldn't look right. And you would need to run one long strand between both hands.

You can use it, but I wouldn't. Won't look much better l, if at all, then the stock look.

To do it right you need two strands about 1.5ft each. A splitter, so both wires are powered. An inverter. And if you don't want to run on battery's a wall adapter. Your money, so spend it how you want. But I'd rather spend 20-25 bucks and get something perfect then spend 4 bucks and think it meh.

And notice the shipping is free, only if you use the 45 day and no tracking option. If you want it before mid March it's probably going to run 10 bucks. So your not saving as much as it appears.

Actually I built that same set up you described on one of the websites you suggested and that set up is more like almost $50 bucks shipped, not $20-$25.

Which site did you build this set up for $25?

Sure it's 9ft but I would certainly just buy 2 and cut them both...shouldn't be too hard right?

Just wanted to find out if anyone had any hands on experience with ordering from Amazon.
 
Actually I built that same set up you described on one of the websites you suggested and that set up is more like almost $50 bucks shipped, not $20-$25.

Which site did you build this set up for $25?

Sure it's 9ft but I would certainly just buy 2 and cut them both...shouldn't be too hard right?

Just wanted to find out if anyone had any hands on experience with ordering from Amazon.

I'm not sure where he got that price, but for me, I got mine at EL Wire Kit Builder - Thatscoolwire.com it was:

Sub Total: $32.57
Shipping (1 lbs) via USPS Priority Mail. : $10.02
-----------------------------------------------------
ORDER TOTAL: $42.59

That was shipped within the United States.


The amazon one looks like a good deal for too much wire, but yeah.. maybe you can cut it? Also, there is no splitter, so you'd have two separate battery packs. If what I showed you appeals to you, I'd just go with that, as I had a smooth experience with thatscoolwire.com. Again, get 1.6ft or 1.7ft instead.
 
I just love this figure, even more than any Mark, and I'm a hardcore RDJ Iron man... Don't know whi this didn't sell well... I'll have to get the EL wire though...
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