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Does anyone know if the Mechanic or testing suit from IM3 head sculpts will fit the mark VII?

They will fit but need a bit of blu tack as the neck connector is different than normal heads. That is if you plan on using the MKVII armoured neck. If you plan on using a TTM style neck piece(Or the one from the MKIV), The head fits fine.


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as everyone's buzzing about the con, no-one's probably gonna even catch this post, but here it goes.
just got this guy (used)... wednesday I think? have to say at first I wasn't all that impressed? somehow it just didn't feel as sturdy as the warmachine (v.1), I remember being far more impressed with that release back in the day. but after this one took a couple of dives to the floor (by itself) and didn't brake, it had won me over ;) ha ha. but joking aside, it kinda grew on me and I have to say that now it's somehow my favourite at the moment... weird?

Survivor of multiple dreaded shelf dives is always a good sign from the cosmos :lecture I love my Mark VII's, so I don't think you're weird at all (yet :wink1: ).

one question though, how the **** do you pose these things? there's all these tiny little edges on the armour that are seriously in the way of any posing. had forgotten about this, as it's basicly the same issue I initially had w/ warmachine. just seems really hard to find a good pose. how on earth do people do it?
any opinions here, is the articulation/posing better in the DIE-CAST versions?

You pose them carefully, especially the IM figures. The figure is very articulated but it is not as articulated as the newer Diecast figures.

couple of things bothering me with the overall design is the seemingly slim waist, especially from the side. for accurasy's sake I feel it should be a little chunkier and the HT helmets seem a tad small too IMO.

The helmets are always getting tweaked, the new accessory set has an improved Mk 7 helmet you may want to look into. Depending on the figure the abdomen sizes do vary, later suits have done a better job at getting this correct whereas early releases are notoriously skinny. The Mk 7 is spot on from what I can tell.

but the one thing I'm really pissed-off is that the previous owner decided it was cool to remove the magnets from the faceplates? I mean what the ****, man? I know there's been some rust-issues with some figures in the past, but where the **** would I get replacement magnets to these things? these magnets are of a very specific size? any ideas you guys???
thinking about getting a partial refund or something as this was not mentioned in the auction. there's also issues with the arms... the rubber joint? or whatever you would call it... there's a significant dent on it and I think it's even puctured beneath the dent. + the rubber feels all gooey and stuff. no mention of this in the auction either.
is there a cood replacement for these rubber parts? or has anyone even tried to take the arms apart??? can it be done the same as a TTM? just wondering what my options are here...

Very odd for someone to remove the magnets, but they can be replaced easily. You'll want to search for neodymium magnets, they come in all sizes but off the top of my head I cannot recall the exact size. As for the 'gooey rubber' a picture would help a ton.

anyhow... after all this whining in this post... overall I think it's a pretty (in lack of a better word) remarkable figure.
glad I eventually decided to get it. just kinda bummed-out there's bound to be a DIE-CAST update at somepoint. I hope I can resist it, but iron man kinda should be made of iron ;) shouldn't it?

Glad you enjoy it. HT has not indicated any wish to do a Diecast Mk 7 so I wouldn't worry about it for the time being. :)
 
That smirking headsculpt gives me nightmares
I never understood why they did that, would have made sense with the Mark IV given all the screwing around he did in it. Donuts, drunk parties and all :lol but the Mark VII he was fairly serious in
Seeing the pics above, I think Barry's right. The hair style is odd....don't know about the eyes.
 
thanx for all your input Y4NK33 PL4N3T.

Very odd for someone to remove the magnets, but they can be replaced easily. You'll want to search for neodymium magnets, they come in all sizes but off the top of my head I cannot recall the exact size.



it actually seems the missing part is a metal plate, the magnet seems to be inside the head. a much easier fix.

As for the 'gooey rubber' a picture would help a ton.




you cant actually see the goo, you just kinda feel it. but you can see the dent and down from that would be two puncture wounds, that dont appear on the other arm? you might see that the rubber pattern is kinda "worn" as I think it's actually kinda melted/rotted a little...
 
thanx for all your input Y4NK33 PL4N3T.

You're very welcome, and welcome to the forum :hi5: Glad the head is a simple fix for you.

you cant actually see the goo, you just kinda feel it. but you can see the dent and down from that would be two puncture wounds, that dont appear on the other arm? you might see that the rubber pattern is kinda "worn" as I think it's actually kinda melted/rotted a little...

Ah, okay these are pet peeves of mine. I HATE these rubberized elbow joints for this reason, they crease over time if you have figures poses with bent elbows. Also, if anyone tries to mod this ie- repaint that rubber is a real pain in the ass and rejects tons of paints. Anyway, I'm uncertain why there would be goo there. My two guesses would be (1) the prior owner had dirty fingers when handling it or (2) the figure was left in extreme heat and maybe it melted? Try swabbing it away with a cotton ball and some warm water. The punctures I have no idea.
 
You're very welcome, and welcome to the forum :hi5: Glad the head is a simple fix for you.

Ah, okay these are pet peeves of mine. I HATE these rubberized elbow joints for this reason, they crease over time if you have figures poses with bent elbows. Also, if anyone tries to mod this ie- repaint that rubber is a real pain in the ass and rejects tons of paints. Anyway, I'm uncertain why there would be goo there. My two guesses would be (1) the prior owner had dirty fingers when handling it or (2) the figure was left in extreme heat and maybe it melted? Try swabbing it away with a cotton ball and some warm water. The punctures I have no idea.

thanx man :hi5: ya, I think I'm somewhat back in the game. I took a long sabbaththical from the hobby and sold a few pieces, but now it seems I'm buying again?

at this point I'm more of "hoping" the head's an easy fix. I should have some scrap metal sheets lying around.

do you know if anyone has ever tried to pull the arms apart to replace these? is the arm just like a TTM? that you would be able to dismantle it or would the only replacement route be to purchase all new arms off eGay? which would be quite costly...

as said I'm thinking along the lines of a partial refund as these "issues" were not mentioned in the auction. I'm yet to contact the seller...
 
thanx man :hi5: ya, I think I'm somewhat back in the game. I took a long sabbaththical from the hobby and sold a few pieces, but now it seems I'm buying again?

at this point I'm more of "hoping" the head's an easy fix. I should have some scrap metal sheets lying around.

do you know if anyone has ever tried to pull the arms apart to replace these? is the arm just like a TTM? that you would be able to dismantle it or would the only replacement route be to purchase all new arms off eGay? which would be quite costly...

as said I'm thinking along the lines of a partial refund as these "issues" were not mentioned in the auction. I'm yet to contact the seller...

I've never dismantled the upper or lower arm, but I'm willing to bet it's nothing like your standard TTM body. Bandito here on the forum would be one person who might know, or someone else can chime in. If the rubber elbow is just gooey I would try cleaning it first before operating with warm water, or a dab of a 'Goof-off' type product made to remove adhesives.

Are those tiny holes noticeable from a foot away or more? If not I wouldn't sweat it.
 
They will fit but need a bit of blu tack as the neck connector is different than normal heads. That is if you plan on using the MKVII armoured neck. If you plan on using a TTM style neck piece(Or the one from the MKIV), The head fits fine.


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They look excellent together. I'll be using the armored neck. There isn't any huge modifying to do other than the Blu-ray tack right? This site is awesome and helpful. Thank you so much
 
I've never dismantled the upper or lower arm, but I'm willing to bet it's nothing like your standard TTM body. Bandito here on the forum would be one person who might know, or someone else can chime in. If the rubber elbow is just gooey I would try cleaning it first before operating with warm water, or a dab of a 'Goof-off' type product made to remove adhesives.

Are those tiny holes noticeable from a foot away or more? If not I wouldn't sweat it.

ya, I know. the dent is more noticable than the holes, but there's just a part of me already worried that the rotting/melting might get worse (as in HT comedian armour worse). so I'm thinking I might be able to replace them with something. I dont understand why HT didn't make these to be hard plastic as they did the knees?
there seem to be screw covers in the arms. so, I guess one could take them apart, but I'm a bit worried about chipping the paint... maybe I'll just leave it for now.
 
You modding chest plates Bar?

he did that last year... where have you been? :lol

I didn't receive my last 7 issues of Usernames Mods Magazine :dunno

Send me your updated credit card info and ill have them sent out right away

Genius.
Yes, my good Y4NK33.
It was a MKVII chect plate i got parted out when the MKVII first hit Ebay. I filled the panels and chest RT, then made a female vacform mould and had a few copies made. I generally mask off the chest RT(Which can be any shape you like), paint it silver from the inside(As the panels are clear), then spray the Gaia colour on the outside as it's a perfect match.
It's great for Battle Damaged looks, or alternate chest RT shapes. And the panels are pretty cheap to make.


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Thanks.
Damage was all done with a soldering iron.
As the piece is clear and painted silver on the inside, all you do is run the hot iron over the surface and all the scores wear the red paint but not the silver.

Oh Thats a good tip, I wanted to do a battle damaged Cap Shield sometime but I wasnt sure ow to do it, would that technique work with the new Diescast shields do you think?
 
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