MrHector
Super Freak
Someone was trying to sell me this for $250 a week ago when I can grab it new for $200 :/ I'll buy one at $150 if anyone is selling theirs.
Toys Legend Dark Knight Batman dioramas / Armory / Tech Desk
- Thread starter Pennyworth
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Haven't done that yet but thought about it, too and opened up the top a while back.
From what I saw I think it shouldn't be very difficult, think it would work to wire it through the columns. Just uploaded a photo for you:
golfpro1286
Super Freak
Haven't done that yet but thought about it, too and opened up the top a while back.
From what I saw I think it shouldn't be very difficult, think it would work to wire it through the columns. Just uploaded a photo for you:
Awesome, thanks Brian! I have lost my little screw driver so I couldn't open mine up last night and was really curious what it looked like inside! I can't tell if those have resistors built in, doesn't look like it... I didn't even think about running the wire through the columns, is there an opening at the bottom for them to run out the back?
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
Get me an image showing the complete area where wires are running and possibly an image of the battery compartment on the other side and I can offer some advice on how to hook this up to constant power.
From the image here it already looks like all the LEDs are being run in series - this would preclude adding a resistor in line with each LED as it would cut too much power to the last LED making it dim or non-functional. It's easy to just rewire everything in parallel though, which would then allow you the ability to have one resistor per LED - looks pretty straight forward.
From the image here it already looks like all the LEDs are being run in series - this would preclude adding a resistor in line with each LED as it would cut too much power to the last LED making it dim or non-functional. It's easy to just rewire everything in parallel though, which would then allow you the ability to have one resistor per LED - looks pretty straight forward.
I am planning on disassembling these puck lights and wire them into the top. Hoping to do it tomorrow. Reverse engineering their lights will be a bit more difficult. I have the proper wire and materials to break these down.
Yeah I know but this one seems just as accurate as the Hot Toys one except the paint & lighting placement.
golfpro1286
Super Freak
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
I'll mark up the images with my suggestion - quick and dirty style. 
elysiumsun
Freakzoid
golfpro1286
Super Freak
Thanks pixelpiper! Really looking forward to what you have to share. I hope I can do this while getting snowed in this afternoon. May have to make a supply run though depending on what you come up with.
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
The LEDs are probably 3.2 to 4v - the battery usage for this (and many such) products is 4.5v (1.5v x 3 batteries), close enough, a little over-driven. We know this because if they were much lower voltage LEDs, they'd burn out wired the way they are in parallel - each LED received 4.5v from the batteries, with the power being distributed to all LEDs via the metal strip inside the curvy plastic channels. If they were much higher voltage, they wouldn't light up with only 4.5v.
Because batteries are inherently current limited, they will drain faster, but the current will not run uncontrolled and melt anything down. So if you want to power this from an external power supply (transformer, etc.), you have to limit the current, either with a current limited voltage converter or with resistors (with or without a voltage converter, depending on the supply and resistors used).
When working on this thing you could re-use some of its solder points, but in the illustration below I've avoided doing that for one important reason: making sure you don't melt any plastic.
The green circles indicate an easy place to cut the supply wires and the grey circles indicate where you can solder some additional wires which will then terminate at a connector for hooking up your power supply/transformer. You can use a bullet style DC-connector, a molex, mini-J, etc… Whatever is convenient for you. For supply you can use or re-use a wall wart from something else, buy something specific for this, etc.
Every white circle indicates one of the original LEDs - you don't have to do anything with these, but if you wanted to change out the color temperature or put in different colors, you could melt the hot glue and pull them out.
The yellow-orange rectangles indicate where you can cut the positive wire and attach, in-line a resistor. The value of the resistor will depend on the desired power supply you're going to use. For my own displays, because I was already using 12v for everything else, I went with that and tied my Tumbler into the main supply. For my Cloud City weather vane, because I didn't want to crack it open any more than I already had, I used a current limiting voltage transformer to get the correct voltage and not burn anything out.
You can *probably* assume these LEDs are 3.4v and 20-25mA. *Over-spec the resistors a little bit to be on the conservative side.
Consult this easy reference at Instructables to figure out what resistor values you will need, depending on your supply voltage: https://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/
Or buy a current limiting DC to DC voltage converter on eBay to use with your desired power supply and omit the resistors.
Because batteries are inherently current limited, they will drain faster, but the current will not run uncontrolled and melt anything down. So if you want to power this from an external power supply (transformer, etc.), you have to limit the current, either with a current limited voltage converter or with resistors (with or without a voltage converter, depending on the supply and resistors used).
When working on this thing you could re-use some of its solder points, but in the illustration below I've avoided doing that for one important reason: making sure you don't melt any plastic.
The green circles indicate an easy place to cut the supply wires and the grey circles indicate where you can solder some additional wires which will then terminate at a connector for hooking up your power supply/transformer. You can use a bullet style DC-connector, a molex, mini-J, etc… Whatever is convenient for you. For supply you can use or re-use a wall wart from something else, buy something specific for this, etc.
Every white circle indicates one of the original LEDs - you don't have to do anything with these, but if you wanted to change out the color temperature or put in different colors, you could melt the hot glue and pull them out.
The yellow-orange rectangles indicate where you can cut the positive wire and attach, in-line a resistor. The value of the resistor will depend on the desired power supply you're going to use. For my own displays, because I was already using 12v for everything else, I went with that and tied my Tumbler into the main supply. For my Cloud City weather vane, because I didn't want to crack it open any more than I already had, I used a current limiting voltage transformer to get the correct voltage and not burn anything out.
You can *probably* assume these LEDs are 3.4v and 20-25mA. *Over-spec the resistors a little bit to be on the conservative side.
Consult this easy reference at Instructables to figure out what resistor values you will need, depending on your supply voltage: https://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/
Or buy a current limiting DC to DC voltage converter on eBay to use with your desired power supply and omit the resistors.
Last edited:
golfpro1286
Super Freak
Do you know if any kind of local store might carry the resistors?
Pixelpiper
Super Freak
Radio Shack or similar.
It's been cancelled. Here's the thread: https://sideshowcollectors.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133672
Roc74
Super Freak
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Aw thats too bad, thanks for the info!
xenowolf
Super Freak
Are they still making the tech desk?
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