1/6 SSC ESB/ROTJ Darth Vader Modification Thread

[eczamurai]

As promised, some profile shots. Seems the Kaiyodo lower eyelid is protruding out a bit further than the accurate one, which makes the top facing cheek surface seem so narrow, even with the fix to the frontal face of the cheeks I'm suggesting. And maybe 2mm is too much to add and you definitely need to add more to the top than to the bottom of the cheek face, but definitely making them more vertical.

It was actually rather difficult making them line up exactly, as their center of gravity is different and they tilt easily.

View attachment 157560View attachment 157561

The right cheek (bottom picture) seems like a very easy fix! The cheek should be angled atabout 80 degrees it seems.

The left cheek ... too! Actually. The tusks were already fixed by heating and reshaping them the other way around! Tnx Garlic I can work with this! I will sculpt the eyelid a bit more upwards, not too much or else my sideshow lenses won't fit but that's the only obstacle I have to work with! After that it should be 90% accurate, apart from the chinbulge, which I find too tedious to add. I don't think I will get that shape right.

I will see if i can make the dents between his eyes more prominent!

So all in all what I have done so far or can't fix:

Chin bulge inaccurate. Won't fix.
Mouth slightly too big, won't fix. (5/10%?)
Eyebrows (now fixed on mine)
Mouth slant the wrong way (fixed on mine)

 

[eczamurai]

So. Resculpted his cheeks, they're a bit sharper than yours but that was on purpose. Not sure if it's accurate but it felt wrong not to sculpt it sharply. Maybe I will sand it a bit. Need your opinion on it.

Also included the S curve in the left cheek. Looks better to me. Not perfect, but definatly better now, thanks for the reference pics Garlic!

EDIT: Fine-tuned it a bit more, I'm satisfied, will show you pictures later!

 

[eczamurai]

Sculpting the lower eyelids. Miliput takes a day to harder so I can paint tomorrow.

Can't heat it to speed up the process because the plastic will revert to its original shape -_-

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Well, the original helmet has pretty sharp features. I sadly couldn't scan in high res, which is the reason my prints are a little soft, compared to what they could have been, but for a home-use 3D scanner and learning as I went along I think I ended up with a pretty decent result. So you certainly shouldn't make it too soft, but I would advice trying to keep with the feel of the rest of the Kaiyodo piece for consistency.

Instead of milliput you could try out Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It has a working time of about one to two hours and hardens completely in 24 just to be sure. However... there is a trick to using this product as it is good to work with the first half hour to 45 minutes, and you can smooth by using water, but then it goes into a weird phase where it acts funny, so I generally leave it when that starts, and then it goes back to a workable hardening state after about 15 to 30 minutes where you can then do your finishing touches and final shaping. Always wear gloves.

 

[eczamurai]

Well, the original helmet has pretty sharp features. I sadly couldn't scan in high res, which is the reason my prints are a little soft, compared to what they could have been, but for a home-use 3D scanner and learning as I went along I think I ended up with a pretty decent result. So you certainly shouldn't make it too soft, but I would advice trying to keep with the feel of the rest of the Kaiyodo piece for consistency.

Instead of milliput you could try out Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It has a working time of about one to two hours and hardens completely in 24 just to be sure. However... there is a trick to using this product as it is good to work with the first half hour to 45 minutes, and you can smooth by using water, but then it goes into a weird phase where it acts funny, so I generally leave it when that starts, and then it goes back to a workable hardening state after about 15 to 30 minutes where you can then do your finishing touches and final shaping. Always wear gloves.

Just finished sculpting the bottom eyelids. This is as far as I can take this sculpt, thanks so much for your feedback Garlic! Couldn't have done it without you!

Tomorrow is painting time!

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Before painting. Post a picture of it just primed grey. Would love to see the work you've done on a clean piece.

And you are quite welcome. Glad I could help.

 

[eczamurai]

Before painting. Post a picture of it just primed grey. Would love to see the work you've done on a clean piece.

And you are quite welcome. Glad I could help.

have no grey primer, only matte black.

 

[eczamurai]

Here's the best pic I can provide. The eyes were a *****, they aren't quite right but better than they were I think.

Cheeks are a definate improvement.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Cool. It looks a little rough. Can miliput be sanded?

Also, looks like you filled in the nail marks on the top cheek face below the eyes.

 

[eczamurai]

Fine tuned it, primed it. Was an irregularity on his left cheek that was only noticable after I primed it, that's why its still white.

Pretty sure I came pretty close. Not perfect but neither am I.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Looking good. I would suggest that you fill the inside of the face mask with something that hardens rock solid, as vinyl has a tendency over time to revert back into it's original cast shape. Would be a shame if all that hard work was slowly erased.

 

[eczamurai]

Looking good. I would suggest that you fill the inside of the face mask with something that hardens rock solid, as vinyl has a tendency over time to revert back into it's original cast shape. Would be a shame if all that hard work was slowly erased.

Really? I know it does when heated but in normal room temperature as well? Hmmm Guess it wouldnt hurt to make sure!

EDIT: I did what you suggested. Good call!

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Yes, I've had that happen to a few vinyl model kits and heard the warning from several others. If they are not filled or backed with something hard and unflexing after having been manipulated into a new shape, then it will revert to its original cast shape. Vinyl has memory and it will always try to go back to the default look. Over time, it just goes really slowly and you don't notice it until the piece suddenly falls off the shelf.

 

[McHaleyArt]

Yes, I've had that happen to a few vinyl model kits and heard the warning from several others. If they are not filled or backed with something hard and unflexing after having been manipulated into a new shape, then it will revert to its original cast shape. Vinyl has memory and it will always try to go back to the default look. Over time, it just goes really slowly and you don't notice it until the piece suddenly falls off the shelf.

All very true!


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[generalgrevious]

I just got this vader model in today have to look at it to see how it looks in person

 

[eczamurai]

I just got this vader model in today have to look at it to see how it looks in person

Congratz! Can't wait to see u work it!

 

[eczamurai]

Finished the last Resculpt I still wanted to do. The... stuff between his eyes. Now he is ready for paint!

 

[generalgrevious]

what is the right color for his chest armor I bought a metallic silver/agent

 

[eczamurai]

what is the right color for his chest armor I bought a metallic silver/agent

The same color as his mask as far as I'm aware. As I said, I used the color Iron Breaker by games workshop mixed with abbadon black, 2 parts ironbreaker and 1 part black for my color silver.

The actual accurate color I wouldn't know honestly. I think the color I made looks and feels correct to me. It's slightly lighter than the silver used on Sideshow's figure.

 

[generalgrevious]

I bought this color of paint called wrought iron and mixed in a little of the metallic silver I think it came out like the color on the sideshow vader mask. I might use it on the chest palte to see how it looks