I was on flex as well,and mine comes tomorrow. Always choose the 5th when you flex.
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Because dull coat is pretty fragile and easily wears off with handling. Dull coat can't contain nearly as much (if any) of the same hardener as gloss, or it wouldn't be matte. A high quality gloss lacquer, on the other hand, is tough as hell. The gloss lacquer will make the decal safe to handle and touch, pretty much forever. I use WATCO clear lacquer, and it's amazingly strong stuff. It sprays on just like any spray paint, and dries fast. Once fully dry, you can literally TRY to press a finger print into it, and it just won't happen. It's like a ultra-thin layer of glass over your decal. Then you apply some matte if appropriate. The gloss under coat also acts as a warning flag; if the decal area starts to look shiny, you'll know the dull top-coat has been handled often, so you can just spray it with matte again.Just curious, why do you spray a gloss coat first?
Anyone get a ship notice yet?
I got charged for my ed-209 but no shipping notice . Probably tomorrow .
Because dull coat is pretty fragile and easily wears off with handling. Dull coat can't contain nearly as much (if any) of the same hardener as gloss, or it wouldn't be matte. A high quality gloss lacquer, on the other hand, is tough as hell. The gloss lacquer will make the decal safe to handle and touch, pretty much forever. I use WATCO clear lacquer, and it's amazingly strong stuff. It sprays on just like any spray paint, and dries fast. Once fully dry, you can literally TRY to press a finger print into it, and it just won't happen. It's like a ultra-thin layer of glass over your decal. Then you apply some matte if appropriate. The gloss under coat also acts as a warning flag; if the decal area starts to look shiny, you'll know the dull top-coat has been handled often, so you can just spray it with matte again.
I've tried several types of clear coat, and WATCO lacquer is the best I have found. It's just very, very strong, makes an invisibly thin coat, and will never yellow over time.Is there a particular reason why you use lacquer versus an acrylic coat like Krylon's Crystal Clear or Mr. Hobby Top Coat?
Oh man... I was thinking I could let this one go, and then I started seeing everyone's pics. I wanted this so bad three years ago when there was only the old version available on Ebay. Might have to get this.
Because dull coat is pretty fragile and easily wears off with handling. Dull coat can't contain nearly as much (if any) of the same hardener as gloss, or it wouldn't be matte. A high quality gloss lacquer, on the other hand, is tough as hell. The gloss lacquer will make the decal safe to handle and touch, pretty much forever. I use WATCO clear lacquer, and it's amazingly strong stuff. It sprays on just like any spray paint, and dries fast. Once fully dry, you can literally TRY to press a finger print into it, and it just won't happen. It's like a ultra-thin layer of glass over your decal. Then you apply some matte if appropriate. The gloss under coat also acts as a warning flag; if the decal area starts to look shiny, you'll know the dull top-coat has been handled often, so you can just spray it with matte again.
Quite true. It's also a very good idea to spray a coat of gloss UNDER the decals before applying them, to sandwich them between two layers of gloss lacquer. Even dense plastic is porous at the microscopic level, allowing oxygen to attack the decal from underneath, right through 'solid' plastic. The 'sandwich' technique blocks out all oxygen, thereby stopping the decals from yellowing over time. (just make sure the clear lacquer you're using won't yellow over time either. WATCO has that feature printed right on the label.)You forgot to mention that the reason matte paint is matte is because it has a "rough" surface, which can trap air between the pits and the decal, resulting in the dreaded "silvering".
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