Oh. OK well the only clothed figure of a normal sized man that I have is the T-1000. And as a matter of curiosity I popped off the T-1000's head with a view to testing the Stark head on it when I realized
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I think that socket would have to be popped out. The Stark head is noticeably larger than the T-1000 head in any case.
Looking at the figure again in person, the upper body is definitely different from the prototype - more of a square silhouette. I suspect the internal lines and details are different also.
By reactions here I assume then that the prototype was more accurate?
For the handy folks and the risk takers, there's a video out there showing a DYI taking apart of the arm to fix the shoulder plate gap and the starfish pack for possible LED installation. It's in Chinese, but you should still be able to follow along based on the video.
I certainly would never do this, but maybe some of y'all might. Good luck!
It would seem though the better option is to use the shoulder joints from the Mk50 as its pegs are shorter and will have the shoulders sit flush without the gaps.
I'm fairly convinced that the only real issue with this figure is the shoulder joint, because in the mod shown earlier in this thread, using a shorter shoulder joint made the arms hang naturally and fixed the shoulder plate position, restoring the look and silhouette of the prototype.
I hope sebpdy does a YouTube video of this mod for the rest of us.
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This is bugging me. The circled area on the arm shouldn't have a gap that wide from the biceps to the deltoid. I know that piece on the toy moves up when the arm is moved but I think it can still be functional that way without the gap being that big.
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This is bugging me. The circled area on the arm shouldn't have a gap that wide from the biceps to the deltoid. I know that piece on the toy moves up when the arm is moved but I think it can still be functional that way without the gap being that big.
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looking at these pics.. the shoulder armor needs to be larger.
Thank you. But is this the version with the Mark 50 Joints or the solution from the youtubevideo?
Or the bicep plate needs to be longer.
No fix. Those fixes won't address this gap. This is a different issue.
From on hand experience, I think the only problem(about the shoulder pad gap, at least), is just they're engineered in a way that there is so many moving parts that there is like a billion ways you can pose it. And the way it comes out the box is positioned so badly awkward, that early pictures look really bad.For the handy folks and the risk takers, there's a video out there showing a DYI taking apart of the arm to fix the shoulder plate gap and the starfish pack for possible LED installation. It's in Chinese, but you should still be able to follow along based on the video.
I certainly would never do this, but maybe some of y'all might. Good luck!
From on hand experience, I think the only problem(about the shoulder pad gap, at least), is just they're engineered in a way that there is so many moving parts that there is like a billion ways you can pose it. And the way it comes out the box is positioned so badly awkward, that early pictures look really bad.
TL;DR: I think the shoulder pad deltoid part is just really badly positioned out of box and early pictures
Pictures attached is my figure with 0 modification
It'll take a bit(a lot) of moving around with but like I said, with the amount of movement they have chosen to design it with, it(shoulder pads) really can be near seamless with any pose, contrary to many photos. It's mainly just another hot toys decision to go for articulation over other stuffThank you. So, I'll be fine with that figure ootb.
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