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agreed but you were the only one with the guts and insite to try/do it and for that I thank you sir. That really makes a difference and its such an easy fix.

No worries.
I have an easy come/easy go attitude.
That's why i don't mind giving it a go, lol.
It's not like i am wasting one of my pristine MKVII heads, Just a spare one i bought on Ebay for this reason. I also have a few spare MKII AU heads that i was tempted to paint red in case the MKVII helmet didn't look good. But i think with that little dab of gold paint and the eye sanding goes a long way to improving the head without major surgery.
To be honest, if you have a steady hand, and a very SMALL piece of 60 grit sandpaper, you could perhaps attempt it with the lens on the mask.
I didn't want to damage the mask in the slightest, which is why i removed it first.
 
just cut and stick some higher gauge white tissue paper on the lens to diffuse the light, no need to damage the faceplate
 
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You should use the finest sandpaper you have, NOT the heaviest. You want to diffuse the light, make it like frosted glass, the finer the better and you won't create any visible scratches.

Have say though guys, when you have this in hand I think you will agree it looks better as it comes out of the box, well with the lights off anyway. The clear glass gives the mask more detail, frosting the glass helps when lit alright, but not when lights are off, as I will have mine 99% of the time.


just cut and stick some higher gauge white tissue paper on the lens to diffuse the light, no need to damage the faceplate

Yes, or tracing paper. Clean, easy and reversible.
 
that would work on the chest RT as well

Good thinking Batman.
I do have a spare chest plate...
I'll try that tomorrow.
And on the subject of the chest plate. I have pics of the mould for the new chest plate i am going to make with the triangular chest RT.
Here is the chest plate i modified before all clayed up awaiting resin:

IMG_3744.jpg~original


And a box built around it and then filled with resin:

IMG_3747.jpg~original


And after the resin has set, the box is removed(along with the plasticene clay), and here's the original part still set into the resin mould:

IMG_3748.jpg~original


And after removal of the original part from the mould, the resultant resin master mould:

IMG_3759.jpg~original


I am going to contact the girl who runs the local vacforming company i use for my parts, and get her input on where she will need the pull holes drilled. Then i will get that done and take the mould down and leave it with them to get a few copies made.
Then it will just be the waiting game till my MKVII'S get here.
 
just cut and stick some higher gauge white tissue paper on the lens to diffuse the light, no need to damage the faceplate

That could work but that would have to be real thin and thick enough to actually diffuse the light. Might be hard to find. But if someone figures out a good combo would love to see it.
 
Good thinking Batman.
I do have a spare chest plate...
I'll try that tomorrow.
And on the subject of the chest plate. I have pics of the mould for the new chest plate i am going to make with the triangular chest RT.

Can you snap a quick pick of the "frosted" eyes with the LED off?
 
Look good man, I look forward to seeing the final product.

Thanks.
I have some of that magic "pink panty restorer" paint on the way. With my fingers crossed and a lot of luck, it will be the colour i need for this one and i will have the MK6/7 hybrid that i want.

Can you snap a quick pick of the "frosted" eyes with the LED off?


Clear on the left, frosted on the right:

IronManEyes.jpg~original
 
Thanks.
I have some of that magic "pink panty restorer" paint on the way. With my fingers crossed and a lot of luck, it will be the colour i need for this one and i will have the MK6/7 hybrid that i want.




Clear on the left, frosted on the right:

IronManEyes.jpg~original

Yeah I could live with that :yess:
 
That's a nice effect. Sort of a lit up/glow effect without actually turning on the light. As Nick mentioned the tissue trick would have the same effect on the chest.

Thanks for sharing.
 
Yeah I could live with that :yess:

No worries. It has a slightly different look on the mask too. The original clear look allows you to see certain details in there. The frosted effect looks a fair bit better.

That's a nice effect. Sort of a lit up/glow effect without actually turning on the light. As Nick mentioned the tissue trick would have the same effect on the chest.

Thanks for sharing.

No problemo.
And just as a heads up if anyone is going to give this one a go, it really has to be a very rough sandpaper. A fine sandpaper won't diffuse the lens enough. By all means, start with a fine sandpaper(The finest i have is 2500 grit), but you will need to use a 60 grit to get the same level of diffusion i have(I used 80 grit and it wasn't rough enough).
 
No worries. It has a slightly different look on the mask too. The original clear look allows you to see certain details in there. The frosted effect looks a fair bit better.



No problemo.
And just as a heads up if anyone is going to give this one a go, it really has to be a very rough sandpaper. A fine sandpaper won't diffuse the lens enough. By all means, start with a fine sandpaper(The finest i have is 2500 grit), but you will need to use a 60 grit to get the same level of diffusion i have(I used 80 grit and it wasn't rough enough).

Bollox. All you need to do is remove the transparency of the plastic. A fine spray of Dullcoat or even a thin layer of transparent adhesive plastic will also do the job.

Anyone questioning this, just try it out on a CD jewel case.
 
I just have used paper in the past. Just requires some careful work with a hobby knife to cut it out and it's non-destructive as well.
 
Impressive work Username! :clap
Thanks for sharing all the work in progress pics. Can't wait to see when it's all done and applied to your mark vii.
 
Good news folks. I popped into work earlier and did a bit of tinkering.
I think i have found an easy fix for both the mouth and the lights in the eyes(I haven't done anything about the SIZE of the eyes yet, just the problem with the uneven lighting).

Okay. For the mouth, i took a little tin of gold paint(Not a perfect match, but close enough i think), and painted the black line gold. It was the only colour of gold i had, and although everyone here will know what i have done, no-one else looking at it would know.

The original look:

IMG_3749.jpg~original


With the line painted:

IMG_3750.jpg~original


And with the faceplate on:

IMG_3751.jpg~original


And another angle:

IMG_3752.jpg~original


And at a more realistic viewing distance:

IMG_3753.jpg~original


Now, on to the lighting.
Here's the problem with the lighting: With the normal eye plate on the face mask outer, and the distance from interior light to eye plate, the light doesn't reach all the way across.
See this image here(Notice how the light stops about a third from the outer edge):

IMG_3754.jpg~original



My fox for this was just as easy as the paint before.
I popped the clear lens out from the faceplate.
I then took a small square of 60 grit sandpaper(The coarsest grade i have), and sanded the interior side.
It roughed up the lens.
See here, the difference:

IMG_3756.jpg~original


With this done, the light is FAR more even on the eyes.
With the lens out, it would also be possible to paint a new line on the lens and reduce the area that light would flow through, so making the eyes look smaller. I don't have a problem with that though.
Here are pics of the light(Just iPhone5 images. In hand, the eyes look a LOT better, and so does the mouth):

IMG_3757.jpg~original



IMG_3758.jpg~original

Thanks again Username...this confirms the plan on the eye fix, and I also like the mouth slit fix. I think I will do the addition of blacking out the outer edge of the lens on mine to get the illusion of smaller eyes.

I really appreciate you doing all this and posting it for us here on the forum.:clap
 
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