Hot Toys - MMS185 - The Avengers: Iron Man MK VII Official Specs & Pics

[Kosika]

OMG.....The head on this Mark it looks much better!, WTF.....

 

[Cyberseven]

This is definitely a great looking suit. The head sculpt may not look spot on for RDJ, but its tbe least doll like looking headsculpt yet. I love it on either Suit.

Quick update on faceplate mod. I did a quick coat of gold to help me see the high spots that I still need to work. Just a bit more and it should be right. Plus the gold paint will work just like primer to show any low spots as I sand some more.

This is actually kind of addictive...

 

[edheng]

This is definitely a great looking suit. The head sculpt may not look spot on for RDJ, but its tbe least doll like looking headsculpt yet. I love it on either Suit.

Quick updat on faceplate mod. I did a quick coat of gold to help me the high spots that I still need to work. Just a bit more and it should be right. Plus the gold paint will work just like primer to show any low spots as I sand some more.

This is actually kind of addictive...

looks like with some red it should be good to go!

I wish we were given a better BD mask though...maybe bigger scratches or something

 

[Cyberseven]

looks like with some red it should be good to go!

I wish we were given a better BD mask though...maybe bigger scratches or something

Thanks. The red part is there, it just has masking tape over it.

This is kind of addictive. If I hade a bunch of faceplates, I would probably give it a shot at making a good battle damaged one.

 

[Balrog]

Thanks. The red part is there, it just has masking tape over it.

This is kind of addictive. If I hade a bunch of faceplates, I would probably give it a shot at making a good battle damaged one.

Damn man, you've nailed the shape of the eyes, really nicely done. That gold has a nice sheen to it as well

 

[Cyberseven]

Nice work there Cyber. Just got my epoxy putty in the mail along with my two extra Mark VII faceplates. Sculpting a new faceplate is a pain so I'm going to try this route as well and see how it goes.

Yours is coming out nicely!

Thanks for the kind words. It is tedious as hell, but if all goes as planned, I think its worth it. If you are like me, you will find it kind of addictive working on it.

 

[hokietwo]

Looking aces man. Can't wait to see it lit up with the film paper over then lens.

 

[Cyberseven]

Looking aces man. Can't wait to see it lit up with the film paper over then lens.

Thanks Hokietwo.
After working on this I am now considering grinding and sanding the lens protrusions like you had mentioned before. I am scared that if I push them back in too hard it could ruin the remolded putty work after all the work to get it right... So to be on the safe side I am going to grind them down and then fine sand them, and maybe just a shot of clear coat, before replacing them.
If all goes well this should also address the even lighting issue on the eyes too.

 

[hokietwo]

Yeah the light disbursement was a issue I hope the smaller eyes would help with. I think by sanding down that lens you will be happy with results. Just go slow and keep checking the lens against the plate as you sand.

 

[Cyberseven]

Yeah the light disbursement was a issue I hope the smaller eyes would help with. I think by sanding down that lens you will be happy with results. Just go slow and keep checking the lens against the plate as you sand.

Exactly. I agree. I am going slow and steady to try to get as close to a factory look as possible.

 

[Hologram AI]

Exactly. I agree. I am going slow and steady to try to get as close to a factory look as possible.

What sand paper are you using as far as getting it smooth and sanding it down to be on the same level as the faceplate? Never worked with epoxy putty so I'm not 100% sure on what level of sand paper to use on this.

 

[Cyberseven]

What sand paper are you using as far as getting it smooth and sanding it down to be on the same level as the faceplate? Never worked with epoxy putty so I'm not 100% sure on what level of sand paper to use on this.

I started with an 600 and 800 grit really gently working the area, barely using any pressure and just letting the sand paper do the work.... I have a pack of really fine grit papers ranging from 1200 to 12000 grit for fine models i picked up at my local hobby shop that i will use to get the really smooth factory finish. I even have some that is from 14000 to 30000 grit, but I do not think I will need that.

 

[Darkmatter]

I think the new head looks really good on the Avengers Mark VI body

it definitely looks more proportionate. great work ed!!!

 

[Darkmatter]

Exactly. I agree. I am going slow and steady to try to get as close to a factory look as possible.

kudos to your patience and steady hand. can't wait to see the final product!!!

 

[kanine]

This is definitely a great looking suit. The head sculpt may not look spot on for RDJ, but its tbe least doll like looking headsculpt yet. I love it on either Suit.

Quick update on faceplate mod. I did a quick coat of gold to help me see the high spots that I still need to work. Just a bit more and it should be right. Plus the gold paint will work just like primer to show any low spots as I sand some more.

This is actually kind of addictive...

That is just amazing work man!!! Awesome, can't wait to see how it looks on the Mark 7 when done. Throw a little hot rod red in there, lol!

 

[Ultron-7]

I started with an 600 and 800 grit really gently working the area, barely using any pressure and just letting the sand paper do the work.... I have a pack of really fine grit papers ranging from 1200 to 12000 grit for fine models i picked up at my local hobby shop that i will use to get the really smooth factory finish. I even have some that is from 14000 to 30000 grit, but I do not think I will need that.

You don't wanna go too smooth or the paint won't stick long term, it needs something to adhere to. If you go too smooth it will end up flaking off overtime.

 

[Resident Eric]

Spray tamiya surface primer on. It will stick like superglue. I'm just curious how close the gold color will match. From the pictures, tamiya gold seems lighter in shade which actually looks closer to the actual IM.

 

[Username]

I started with an 600 and 800 grit really gently working the area, barely using any pressure and just letting the sand paper do the work.... I have a pack of really fine grit papers ranging from 1200 to 12000 grit for fine models i picked up at my local hobby shop that i will use to get the really smooth factory finish. I even have some that is from 14000 to 30000 grit, but I do not think I will need that.

It's looking incredible. Well done with that.
Here's my sandpaper:

 

[Cyberseven]

It has been a bit of a slow day at work so far. I should have brought in my faceplate project to work on some more.
I have a ways to go with it before a final painting is done. I actually will be doing some test painting using grey and dark grey and black primers under the TS-21 gold on some red plastic spoons. I want to see how the color of primer will affect the tone of the gold. TS-21 is just about spot on, but I bet I could get it perfect with a good dark base tone primer.

The battle damaged faceplate is darker then the clean one, mainly because of a slight airbrushing of black, to give it a flight worn look.

I just shot a quick coat of gold so I could get a progress pic out fast, and get an idea how much work I have left to get it right.

I am crossing my fingers that all goes as planned. I actually like doing this, but I am a little surprised that HT couldn't have just made the eyes look right. If my Mongo *** can get this close, why couldn't HT get this right?

 

[hokietwo]

What's the fun it that? HT wants you to buy the next upgraded VII probably a die cast with the correct head.